Hey guys. I got a 63 deville 2dr series 62 without AC. Im positive what im experiencing is vapour lock. Ive experienced it twice in the month ive had the car. First time it died on me after cruising around for an hour. Keep in mind it was a really hot day. But the car stalled out and died. I waited like 15 mins, lugged it out of the way. And when i came back hour or so later it was fine.

When the car is cold and i first start it the fuel filter bowl is full of fuel. After cruising i always see the fuel low, down to the bottom of the filter, and its always bubbling away even when the car is shut off. I used a temp gun last time it happened and the temp around at the fuel lines were at like 200°f. I have put a garden hose on the fuel pump while it was running and the fuel would raise and fill up the filter bowl.

I recently changed the thermostat down to a 160° and changed the coolant out. The cooling system seems to be working fine.

I heard adding a return line back to tank usually will solve the problem. Im trying to find a glass filter bowl off a AC vehicle at the moment. But i did some more research and found that sometimes the heat riser sticks. But my car has true dual exhaust and i think it has been removed. I couldnt find it.

The lines look to be routed like original. Does any one have any pictures of how the fuel lines are routed in the engine bay for AC and non AC cars?

Thanks guys. Any help or suggestions is appreciated.

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On our car, the rubber fuel return line just goes down to the steel line adjacent to the cross member.

Whilst a return line "might" solve the problem, I would try to delve deeper. Maybe Russ could help here, he has 63's and is in a fairly hot climate being from Arizona.

I would bet that the fuel pump is giving out.  I'll have to post more info on the type of electric pump that I use, and what I use to control it.  That will come after I get home from work today.

I'm interested in your electric fuel pump upgrade also Russ. I'm going to repair my new pump I got from Jason and take one more attempt with the mechanical pump this fall. They just don't seem to pump enough fuel at idle for the fuel injection.

You can test you pump on the car with a vacuum hand pump. Disconnect the tank side of the pump and plug it off. Then connect the vacuum pump to the carburetors side to see if it holds a vacuum. You may also have fuel lines that are failing from age and or ethanol blended fuels.
Klutch

It sounds to me like your intake is getting to hot and boiling the fuel out of the the carb fuel bowls And down the fuel line to the filter ( evaporating the carbs gas supply )
The heat riser is located at the end of the driver side exhaust manifold right where the Y pipe connects to it
This does sound like a heat riser staying closed and causing this problem so see if you can find it and if you have one

Go to the Search Engine at the top right of the home page
Jason did a video demonstration on how the heat riser should work and that will show you its location as well

You can wire it open if it is not working as it should and broken or sticking
That is an old school hot rod trick that will work

Enjoy

The electric fuel pump I use on both my 63's is a Carter P60430  The electric fuel pump is controlled by a Fuel Pump Safety Switch, made by Revolution Electronics.  Part # 12003     revolutionelectronics.com

The controller senses a signal from the coil. If the car stalls, the fuel pump shuts off. At start up, a micro processor gives the fuel pump a 2 second run to prime the carb.

I love it, you can turn the ignition switch on to troubleshoot something, without the fuel pump running.

So russ, do you have a return line also? Or just the main supply line?

And did you route the fuel line the same way around the engine or did you change it up?

The pump is designed for systems without a return line. 

I used the stock setup for the fuel lines.

So you think the easiest way to get rid of the lock would be to install that electric pump? I might end up going that route instead of all the trouble of installing the return line. Do you have a link to the block off plate you used?
I checked the specs for the carter pump. Maximum pressure is 2psi? You think that would be enough?
Russ

Is this in addition to the stock fuel pump or Is stock gutted ?

Is the pump noisy at all and where did you place it ?

Thanks

Enjoy

I have the stock pump gutted on the sedan, and have the pump removed on the hearse. I used a barbed fitting for the end of the fuel line, and made a bracket to support the end of the fuel line.

A big block chevy fuel pump block off plate is a perfect fit for where the fuel pump was.

The pump is not noisy at all, and I installed the pump right in front of the gas tank. Plenty of room.

So a "big block chevy fuel pump block off plate" would be perfect fit?

This is one that could work: Summit Racing® Fuel Pump Block-Off Plates SUM-402035 or you have a better suggestion?

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