Hey guys. I got a 63 deville 2dr series 62 without AC. Im positive what im experiencing is vapour lock. Ive experienced it twice in the month ive had the car. First time it died on me after cruising around for an hour. Keep in mind it was a really hot day. But the car stalled out and died. I waited like 15 mins, lugged it out of the way. And when i came back hour or so later it was fine.

When the car is cold and i first start it the fuel filter bowl is full of fuel. After cruising i always see the fuel low, down to the bottom of the filter, and its always bubbling away even when the car is shut off. I used a temp gun last time it happened and the temp around at the fuel lines were at like 200°f. I have put a garden hose on the fuel pump while it was running and the fuel would raise and fill up the filter bowl.

I recently changed the thermostat down to a 160° and changed the coolant out. The cooling system seems to be working fine.

I heard adding a return line back to tank usually will solve the problem. Im trying to find a glass filter bowl off a AC vehicle at the moment. But i did some more research and found that sometimes the heat riser sticks. But my car has true dual exhaust and i think it has been removed. I couldnt find it.

The lines look to be routed like original. Does any one have any pictures of how the fuel lines are routed in the engine bay for AC and non AC cars?

Thanks guys. Any help or suggestions is appreciated.

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Im pretty sure its the carter carb i got on there. And i got custom exhaust with no heat riser. 

Have you checked to see if your --heat riser is opening and working as it SB ?
Located in the drivers side exhaust --at the end of the exhaust manifold
You can see a video of how it should work in the video section in the header
Be sure it is fully open when engine is at operating temp
If you have an inferred heat gun you can check the temp of the intake manifold just below the carb
If you have a carter carb be sure your gaskets are placed in correct order under the carb
Do you know the temp your cooling system runs at at operating temp ? You should

Retarded engine timing can run a cars temp up and could make starting more difficult at the same time
When was the last time the points and timing were done
Just some basics related to engine heat issues that need to be working correctly


The car has a custom exhaust and theres no heat riser in there.  I got a 160 degree thermostat in it. I havent checked the timing or anything yet. Im not sure when or if the points have been done

Whats the order for the gaskets for the carb?


We both posted about the heat riser --at the same exact time
Just so you understand what happened otherwise the two posts feel somewhat disjointed saying the same thing one after the other


From the intake up
Regular gasket
Bakalite spacer
Regular gasket
Aluminum gasket


From your reply --it is time to give the engine a complete tune up
Do change the ignition wires if you do not know when done last
When you know the engine specs are on point you now have --a base --for evaluating the engines performance and then eliminating problems that exist at that time if they do
It could be as simple as time to do some basic engine maintenance
My best guess is your timing ---has become retarded from a lack of ignition maintenance
Causing the car to run hotter than it SB

Where is the car running on the temp guage ?

The car runs usually about at the 1/4 mark. Sometimes it rises a little above it when im stuck in traffic. And yeah i think i should change the rotor distributor and wires. Do you know of good replacement parts i can buy? Should i swap it to msd branded parts?

The temp guage seems right - as long as its sending unit is working correctly
A termometer temp check at op temp could be a good idea

You can purchase the tune up parts you need at any part store
I use the points and cindenser combination ( as a unit to make life easier ) by Borg Warner
Only use a dist cap with the brass terminals ( no white metal terminals )

Check your timing mark and point dwell meter ( points gap )-- before you replace any parts to see what it is reading
If the timing is retarted that would possibly be a good clue to your heat soak issue

Use the Autolight spark plug equivolent to the stock AC brand plug (a better brand plug )
Plug gap is .035 and timing stock is 5 degrees ( some like 8 degrees like myself )

If you plugs are burning whitish for any reson you need to be checking for vacuum leaks into the intake manifold
A leaking dist vaccum advance might be the problem - check it for holding vacuum
If you have a 64 good chance the vacuum line --from the back of the intake-- going into the cabin should be blocked off at the back of the intake until you can address --the leaking vacuum hoses for the climate control system in the cabin

Once the fresh tune is correct and on spec you can now tune the carb on an expanded RPM guage ( part of any dwell meter -- or with a sensor in the exhaust pipe by a shop ) -- a one time only adjustment then left alone until the carb is rebuilt or replaced in the future

If your ignition parts are worn you should experience a very nice boost in performance and engine smoothness That SB a very enjoyable experience

After doing the timing -check it -after you tighten down the dist lock down bolt
Change only one pulg wire at a time --as they can get mixed up easily and cause a problem
Keep the ignition wires away from engine metal as much as is possible


Once the above work is done --you will know the engine is running as intended and any other issues can now be adressed
Hopefully there will be no other issues


Ok well. I finally got the time to work on my car a little bit. I replaced the cap, rotor, wires, plugs, and the condensor. It runs better than before and i took it out yesterday and it ran good, but it wasnt that hot so i probably wasnt going to get a vapour lock problem.

I got a couple questions though. Is our condensor mounted on top of the coil? because when i took it apart there was an identical looking part mounted on top of the coil bracket. The original one had no wire coming out of it (looked like it had broke off). If it is the correct place for it would it be fine if the wire coming off of it just grounds to the bracket holding it together or does it have to go to one of the terminals.

The second problem i ran into was the points. From what i understand once you remove the cap, and the rotor, the points should be right under the flyweights. There was this other like other black piece bolted to the bottom of it with 2 wires coming out (says ignitor or something on it). I tired looking around and even taking it more apart to see if the points were hiding underneath but didnt wanna break anything.

I took some pictures. Have a look


That is not where the condensor goes. The condensor looking thing on the coil is a noise suppressor. You do not have points or condenser on your car it has been upgraded to electronic ignition and requires no maintenance. Put everything back to where it was and retime your engine. I would put a hand vacuum pump on your vacuum advance to be sure it's not leaking as it appears to be original. Rock auto has them cheap. 

Haha damn! I knew something was wrong. I havent even looked into any electronic ignition parts or anything. Thought you usually have to get a whole new distributor. How is the one thats on mines? looks pretty basic. 

Now im going to set the carb up. And ill have a look at the vacuum advance. 



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