all four power windows work from the driver's control panel, but none of the passenger windows work from the passenger switches.  Is this a master switch problem or an wiring problem?   Thanks for the advise.

Also, I noticed today while tinker with the door switches that the drivers door has only two wires (one works the dash courtesy lights, the other appears dead) and the passenger door has three (one works the dash courtesy lights, one works the red door lights, and one works the rear passenger compartment courtesy lights.  Seems like there should be a third wire on the drivers door???

Mike Vogler


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Is your Window Lock Out Switch at the very front of the driver's master arm rest switch panel in "Normal" or "Lock"? In lock position none of the other passenger switches will work. As noted on page 28 of your owners manual, that is the function of the switch, If in Normal, ignition switch is on, and nothing you may have a loose connector at the lock out switch, or broken wires thru the rubber door conduit (boot) the wires run thru. 1st I would check the lock out switch and the connector.

You should have lights feeding into the left driver door for power windows, power seats, and courtesy lights.  The power window harness will have different configurations (2 extra wires and another connector) for power vent window equipped cars. The larger heavier wires often break in the rubber conduit between the door and metal car body due to opening and closing the door (and bending the wire) hundreds if not thousands of times over the life of the car.


Thank you for the reply.   With the window lock out switch in the Normal position, none of the passenger window switches work (though all the windows work from the driver's master control).  I see to recall from many years ago that to test the Lock Out Switch, turn around the connector, where the override is in the "normal" position.  If, while holding is to normal, (because it will spring back as it's reversed), a passenger is able to open his/her window, then it's the switch. (A Jumper wire from the override to the normal connector should do the same thing, I believe)

I was studying the wiring diagram for the windows and it appears that the number 16 wire is the wire from the Lock Out switch to all passenger window switches.  if not the switch, then the wire somewhere!  

Thanks, again!


Looking at the wiring schematic in Fig 16-135. With Lock Out switch in normal mode and with ignition switch on. The relay behind lower left kick panel receives "control" power via the dark blue and white wire with ignition on, which closes the circuit between red wire (#1) and the white with black wire (#17). #17 goes to the master window switch and goes to the Lock out Switch. When the lock out switch is in Normal mode there is contact with the Yellow and Black (#16) wire which is the Feed wire for Right and left rear, and right front windows.   When it is on Lock position the circuit is open and passengers cannot operate their windows.   With ignition on or off the driver can move the lock out swich to the Emerg position which draws power from the #1 Red wire, which passes current back to the master switch so driver can control windows even with keys out of the car and igntion off.

In lock mode there shoud be no continuity with other pins, In Normal you should ave continuity between #16 and #17 . In emergency you shoul have have continutity between #1 and #17.  #1 (red) always has power and you can jump it to #17 to provide power to the master or #16 to provide power to passenger switches.  The #1 red wire is a constant hot wire and you do not want to leave it jumpered... on use that fact perhaps to do a quick test as needed if you think the white and black wire (#17) is perhaps broken or not getting current from the relay switch.

I understand.  Thank you again.


Fixed the power windows this weekend.  Broken wire(s) in the door hinges, including the neutral on the red door courtesy light.  All windows are working and all interior lights are working perfectly.  It helped that I replaced the door switches, too.


Another fantastic outcome and as I suggested in my 1st reply - broken wires in the rubber door to body conduit. Nice job with the fix. 



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