Hope you installed SKF-bearings. Its been reported that National bearings doesnt last long.
There is a good procedure in the manual. If following you should be fine.
The rumbling sound could very well be the wheel bearings. Did you check/replace front? If front and rear bearings are good then the next check should be your propeller shaft center bearing. If the bearing is good you might have an issue with CV-joints. Best solution is to bring the shaft to a reputable shop and have it rebalanced and CV-joints replaced. If that doesnt work you need to check the rear axle.
I have had a similar situation with rumbling sound.
Replaced bad rear wheel bearings.
Replaced bad center bearing.
Replaced bad springs in CV-joints.
Then replaced the rear axel. And still had the rumbling sound.
In June when about to give up I was watching Car SOS on TV. They sorted the rumbling sound by balancing the propellershaft. So the next day I contacted a local shop that specialise in propellershafts. One week and 600 dollar later I refitted the shaft and took the car for a test run. In a downhill I set the transmission on neutral and turned off the engine. It was the greatest car experince, not counting some back seat situations. The car was completely quite and not a sound except the wheels moving on the asphalt and the wind passing.
It felt so great. Four years trying to fix the rumbling sound and it was the balancing of the propellershaft that did it. But even if I would have started with balancing the other stuff needed to be sorted.
If a similar situation in the future I would start with the wheel bearings and then balancing the propellershaft. If that doesnt work its time for the rear axle and transmission.
Thank you for your account of what you went through, it is all good knowledge to soak up.
I understand the o-ring on the bearing itself but when I removed the axle the first time there was remains of a seal type ring that was in the axle housing, I wonder weather it was remains of the oil ring that would of been used on the old style bearing?.
With your driveshaft, did the have any trouble with the ball joint?
As I said I replaced the springs in the CV-joints. Also replaced the the other parts except the ball/pin (looked good) as that required a lathe and some good skill, of which I have none.
The shop redid the CV-joints and balanced the axle. Exactly what was the issue I can't tell, but the problem got solved.
The pictures are from the shop manual:
This text explains how the CV-joints work:
This part of the manual indicates that the CV-joints can't be serviced and must be replaced. There are of course not any replacements available any longer so the CV-joints has to be serviced. The good thing is that some shops do know how to do it and there are service parts available.
Comments unrelated to answering the question have been removed. If someone can answer ... great. No need for heated back and forth. I asked Chris to post his question here as all I know is what I see in the shop manual illustration and do not remember any additional oil seals.
You could be looking at a sealing compound that was use by the last person to replace the axel bearings that was used to insure a good seal at that location
Hi Tony and Ginny,
Yes that is a very good point, I have new bearings on order so will press them and see how it rolls.
The rear wheel bearing should off course be fitted correctly with the o-ring and the oil seal.
SKF-bearings have the oil seal fitted on the bearing:
In the above picture you see the oil seal and the o-ring correctly fitted. The o-ring is not centered on the bearing. Please note the the o-ring should be closer to the differential carrier then the backing plate. If the o-ring is closer to the backing plate than the differential, the bearing is fitted 180 degree wrong and will most likely leak.
I hope this clears any situation.
My guess is that the bearing might be defect or mounted incorrect. Maybe the o-ring was not installed.
If rumbling sound and new wheel and center bearings, have your propeller shaft re-balanced. If still rumbling, get your rear axle checked or replaced. Still rumbling? Hmm, try some TNT. Fit 10 kilo (20 pounds) on the car. Place the car in an open field miles away from anything and anybody. Run. Take cover. See and hear the rumbling sound. After a few seconds the sound will be gone and you will never hear any sound again from the car...
All great info there, will start going through everything as described. Would you use remote detonation or go old school and have a long fuse and zippo? Hahaha.
Seriously though thank you for your time. Will keep you posted.
Using a long gun of course! ;-)
You may want to evaluate your rear trailing arm bushings and the ball joint above the rear axel while you are freshening up the rear axel area - shocks as well ( solving the rear end rumble )
There is a go pro video —in the videos in the header - that shows the gear housing movement due to bad bushings that greatly effect the angle of the driveshaft U joints in relation to the gear housing during normal driving conditions
Dan Mc Narry a fellow on the site makes after market control arms that solve the Serious problem of —-no good stock rear replacement control arm bushings being available on the market today
The stock RCA bushings available on the market are not acceptable for replacement and are all from one source no matter the supplier you choose to use ( go bad in 400 miles per feed back here )
I was involved in researching the stock bushing available from a number of suppliers in the past to come to the above conclusion
That should help get it right if you need to replace your trailing arms and bushings
Dans arms do not look stock but somewhat hidden under the car so not much of an issue for me but something you may have to consider for yourself ( for the I gotta be stock or Die guys )
Dan has the only reasonable solution to the RCA bushing replacement problem that I know of at this time
Hi Tony and Ginny,
Yes I have just put a set of Dan's Bushings on. Top quality!.
I'm thinking it may be the driveshaft. Anyone know of a place to get the CV ball seat kit from ?
The answer is in my comment on Wednesday:
Kevin is Australia has been using a local company for a lot of his needs. You can ask him.
If you still have problems you will get it from TA Motors in Sweden. Ask total cost including shipping. Could be worth it.
This is the store info in English: https://www.tamotor.se/international/
And here is the kit. Its in Swedish but you will understand some of it: https://www.tamotor.se/produkt/repsats-till-centreringskula/