Ok,  short refresher,  last dec i relpaced starter w rebuilt from usa parts.  and even then,  after short runs where i got up to temp, if i shutvcar off, and then tried to start, it would drag heavily  a d would not start.  10 min later, it would start fine.   At the time,  i hv cleaned all grounds, all grounds properly,   i wrapped wires withe the heat tape, moved them back from exh manifold,  things seemed ok.

Last cupla weeks,  same symptom,  short rides around town, no problems, always starts, longer rides,  if i get gas,  car barely starts,  sometimes, it doesnt even click,  i can just hear a humm,  after a time or two. , it will slow turn, then start.  

So i got bk under car, notced the black wire had a crack anf i coukd see copper.  As a temp fix, i put electric tape on it,  applied the heat tape,  took out for long ride tonight, 45 min or so at 70,  [no vibrations from rear, yeah!!]

Anyway, i got out, got in,   no start.  

So what testing should i do now,   should i try to rewire from ignition key to solenpoid/starter,   replace solenoid,  what further test can i run that i didnt try in dec.    my limited knowledge says heat has something to do with this,  sustained heat, not just 2 minutes cross town, but longer rides.other than this recurring headache,  car doing good

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Check your ignition especially the timing 

retarded timing will cause a heat build up as engine will run hotter than it SB 

try the timing at 10 degrees 

advanced timing runs the engine cooler 

very advanced timing will cause the engine to —struggle to turn over just before the engine does fire 

have the batteries performance —and the charging system checked —-at any auto store for free 

The battery may not be getting a good charge causing a slow turn over 

If you still have the same issue I think the starter  or the starter solenoid  is suspect 

Do you know what color your plugs are burning ? 

A lean engine will build up heat 

once my car ran lean and hot  when I would take it to highway speeds 

i was using the car mostly around town with no problem but at highway speed the heat would rise 

in my case it was the fuel filter that was not allowing enough fuel into the engine at the highway speeds from being clogged up enough to cause that issue 



Timing is at 7.5/8 as suggested to me a while back from here.

my engine runs at 1/4 on the heat gauge,, always,, even at 65.  it may drift up the width of the needle past the 1/4 mark at 70 plus, but otherwise,, 1/4.  when i turn off the engine, and go in to get the mail or something and when i come back, the heat needle is up  but as soon as i get going, it drops back,,,

i will drive it up one day this week to check the battery again,  

Ok timing is not the issue

Have the charging system and the battery checked


No where di I see that you replaced the battery cables. They are bad, and you even found cracks in them. Corrosion seeps into the cables through cracks and the exposed ends. Corroded wires cause high resistance. High resistance = low amp draw. Heat only makes it worse.

Change your battery cables and you will be a happy man.

I miss lead you on the cables.   They were all replaced when i changed battery back in january.  What i fould was the black wire that comes from the starter/solenoid,  dnt remeber exacly now, but it goes up along withe the other wires that go into the fire wall and i presume into the ignition key.   Just a guess there,  but that is the wire, not the battery wire cables.   The cable from battery to statrer was also replaced in jauary.  

ok, back to this,, 

as I stated above, the battery cables were replaced back in January, the grounds were all cleaned and put back.  

I took the car to the auto store and they ran test on battery and starting system, both registered at 100 %.

I did a lot of reading on heat on the starter on several of the chevy forums and just car talk in general to see where people were going and if this was common.

It seems it is common, and remedies have been from putting one of the blankets on the starter, to replacing just the solenoid, to using some sort of remote solenoid from Ford, even on chevy cars, i guess they have better heat resistance.  some wrap there headers to stop heat, but i read somewhere that that causes the header to deteriorate quicker so i dont want to do that.   some of the blanket wraps worked, most seemed not to, and in the end, went to part replacement,,,, some carry a three foot wire to jump off the starter, some keep a water squirt bottle in the car to spray on the starter, solenoid to cool it down...Many, in fact, replaced with reman starters and still had the problems, theory being, no one knew how many times the starter had been re manufactured of the years and the internal parts had just lost there ablitliy to do what they needed to do, despite the rebuild... I'm guessing they are new starters designed to fit older cars.

I took the car to bozeman yesterday,, ran just fine.. but after the 1hr 15 minute drive, i turned off the car, and tried to start immediately, and it was dead.   hour later, started right up..

so what exactly does heat affect, the starter, or the solenoid,, what is being handicapped,  or is it both,

So given that i have tested the battery, the battery cables are less than year, and no apparent corrosion has gotten on them,,at least visibly,  i have wrapped the wiring in heat wraps, and moved away from exh manifold as far as the wires will move.  i dont know what else to check,,,

Do i re wire, or do i replace  the solenoid, or find one of those modern starters,, or do one of the remote solenoids,,,.. if its a starter, who would have a starter like that,  jegs didnt an summit said they didnt.. so I'm wondering if one is available.

the car is running good, but this is a real pain not to be able to turn off the car, get a coke in the store and then come out and not start,, 

I would at this point put a new ( rebuilt starter ) in the car and see if that's the fix for this misterious no start problem ( heat related )
How well a starter is rebuilt could be the major variable in this case
Difficult to know the internal condition of a starter and how well the rebuilder did to rebuild it on a scale of 1 to 10

While on the subject does anyone out there have a very good parts rebuilder for our year cars ?
Electrical in this case


Enjoy y

Russ may have a starter for the th400 trans for sale if he has not sold it
That would be starter you need for the CDV

He should be along shortly


I have a 64 starter for the Turbo Hydromatic.

email me at  russ85747@hotmail.com

Does the starter spin the engine without it firing off-- or is there no action from the starter motor when you turn the key ?
If the starter is dead until it cools off -- change the starter and solinoid


depends,,,, on how long i have been driving the car,

if i drive up to temp,, what maybe 10 minutes,, get out and in,,,it may do a couple slow slow turns and then fire off.

if i got for extended ride,, 20 to 30 min, it will just make a funny clik noise, and do nothing,, 30 minutes later.. it will start..

Kim if everything is right I would go back recheck and clean your battery, starter and ground connections. If it's still doing it you could try to increase the size of the cables to the starter and the ground.



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