Hello All, after replacing the voltage regulator, alternator, checking and replacing wires to alternator plug, test voltage on battery, good, voltage on alternator good.  Checked ground with multi meter checked voltage going in regulator connection, good.  Checked 6 amp fuse on right fender goid - stumped cannot figure out why alternator does not charge battery.  HEEEELP!

second thing I found this (fuseable link?) on green, red2, blue wire going in firewall, anyone know what and why it is?AB6173F1-C94E-4B27-A206-4A7687625B7A.jpeg. Thanks

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That is a resistor on the firewall. It drops the voltage down to the points in the distrib. It is not stock, but it if works, run with it. They get hot, so it has to be away from stuff that melts.

For the battery charging, it looks like you have covered all the bases.  Why do you say the alternator is not charging the battery, if all the numbers are looking good.

I do a quick check by checking battery voltage with the engine off. Start the engine and then check voltage at the battery. if there is an increase from 12.5 to hopefully 12.9 or higher, then the alternator is charging the battery.

Thanks Russ, checked battery with engine off and it was 12.5.  Started the engine and battery started at 12.4 then down to 12.3 and on down. Took alternator into shop and it tested great. Reconnected everything, numbers almost the exact same. Haven't figured out what I'm doing wrong?

I am speechless —-after seeing the photos of the high end ignition resistor installation ( with wire hanger ) which is a very interesting solution to be repairing the dist resistor wire required for the stock dist

Can I tell you how many things I have repaired over the many years with a wire hanger and duct tape and still do 

More than one way to skin a cat for sure 

Russ’s suggestions should get you the results you need 

Enjoy 

 

Thanks Tony and Ginny I thought that was 'different' too, did'nt know what it was until Russ told me.  Though my cop-out is I bought the car that way...lol

An easy way to tell if alternator is charging, is crank the car and while car is running disconnect the Positive battery cable terminal. If everything is wired correctly and alternator is charging car will continue to run.

Jason I charged up the battery, it read 12.7 started the car and let it run a bit then took off positive cable and car promptly shut off.  There is something I'm missing...

On the positive battery cable terminal, in addition to the main starter wire, there is a thick 10 guage wire that goes direct to the larger starter terminal on the back of the alternator. I am sure you have checked this but this is the wire that charges your battery and would  make absolutely sure there are no breaks in that wire. If you have a multi-tester, check continuity between positive battery post and that battery terminal on the back of the alternator.

On the voltage regulator did you make sure the connector was firmly plugged in and reconnect the ground wire as seen below.  Voltage Regulators are cheap, and if you are 100% sure charging feed wire noted above is good, I would replace the voltage regulator .. but first check connections and that ground!

Will do. Checking all the grounds again too!

Clean all regulator connections ( inside and outside the clip connections ) and the firewall mount of the regulator  —to shinny metal can get the regulator to start to work again 

That worked for Jason and myself in the past 

you can remove the female terminals to clean them and use a spray cleaner for electrical 

They slide out of there housing if you release a small clip holding them in 

i use an exact blade to release the clips by pushing it into the female terminal from the back 

Remove the —negative terminal on the battery to do the regulator removal and clean up 

A standard rule with our year cars is to —First clean the grounds —with any electrical issues as this will often fix the problem ( bad connection due to aging ) 

if cleaning should not repair the regulator then replace it 

do you know that —Any electrical flash ( short ) you may cause in the cars electrical system ( while trouble shooting ) CAN cause the regulator to burn out 

That regulator could be your issue all along but always good to have a new alternator in your ride for future reliability 

I do feel you pain with the issue you are having 

Enjoy 

Thanks Tony and Ginny will go back to drawing board and taking your advice and cleaning all the grounds. After I come home from the “Woodward Dream Cruise” today, even though couldn’t drive my ‘64 Caddy in the cruise...

Enjoy your Woodward Dream Cruise today 

i know  about it being a very special event for car lovers 

Do post some pictures if you can 

Like Kevin says “ no pictures it never happened “  LOL ! 

Enjoy 

Hello all, I removed the alternator harness checked for continuity, it was good.  Then after cleaning the ground to the regulator, as Jason said, I replaced the regulator, again.   cleaned the harness connection with electrical spray cleaner.  Replaced the 6 amp fuse on the right fender wall.  Checked the battery voltage 12.5 then started the engine, voltage dropped to 12.4, 12.3 and on down.  Replaced the positive cable wire going to starter and wire running from alternator to battery with new sealed end cables.  Tested alternator that tested fine, though I read a resister inside could still be bad, so I replaced alternator with NAPA branded one.  Used the mult-meter to test newest alternator/generator voltage same numbers 12.5, 12.4.  Next step, unless you guys have another solution, is to take it to a shop and let them diagnosis the problem... :-(

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