Had some sound from the propeller shaft and as the rear wheel bearings just been replaced I thought it would be the center bearing. Removed the propeller shaft and checked the center bearing (as per Jasons video). Found the bearing to be defective and needed to be replaced.

First part was to divide the propeller shaft at the center bearing support. The center bearing support nut was the first obstacle.

Jason suggested to use a adjustable wrench and turn the nut anti clockwise. I was not comfortable with the adjustable wrench so decided to fabricate my own tool. Found a 20 dollar combination wrench and started cutting. Note that the size of nut is approximately 46 mm (if you need the size in inch bring out your own calculator!)

 With the "homemade" wrench it was very easy to remove the nut and divide the shaft.

The result:

Marked all parts of the shaft for easy alignment when assembling (but it was not necessary as I will show at the end of this thread).

The shaft being pulled apart.

Using a sledgehammer and carefully tapping on the slinger removing the center bearing support and bracket. It didn't take much force at all, but you might have to use rust penetrating oil if difficult. Its a bit tricky to take pictures, but I guess you see whats going on...

Here is the shaft with the bearing assembly removed.

Slinger, center bearing support (with bearing still inside) and lock retainer. Note the snap ring is holding the bearing. (Sorry about my ugly sandals).

Snap ring being removed.

Gently tapping on the bearing, removing it from the support. Rust penetrating oil would of course help as well.

Here are all parts.

Bought a new bearing. OEM 904778 and suitable replacement part is SKF 6908-VAL. Size of the bearing is 62x40x15 mm if you buy from another manufacturer.

Pressed in the new bearing using a vise and a 46 mm socket. (44 or 45 mm sockets, if exist, would have been a better choice).

Here its in correct position with fitted snap ring and slinger ready for install onto the shaft.

Everything properly greased and fitted together.

Now it was just to reinstall the the shaft on the car again. Important is to cover the front slip yoke as that is going into the gear box and you don't want any foreign material to enter it.

It was actually very easy to reinstall the shaft. I was worried about finding the two holes for the center bearing support-to-frame bolts. But it was very easy and the installation was a lot easier then the dismantling. Also keep in mind that when you remove the front slip yoke from the gear box, oil will pour out. Make sure you have a drip tray ready. I measured the lost oil when all was done and found the quantity to be around 2 liter. So needed to refill that before starting the car. If you happen to have an extra front slip yoke lying about, you can of course use that to stop the loss of oil!

After test driving the car the sound is a lot better. But I still have some clicking sound from the constant velocity universal joints. Mine were not so good, but after spraying some rust penetrating oil and then grease they are a lot better. Still have ordered two new set of Rockford 403-01 CV Driveshaft repair-kit and five set of MOOG universal joints plus a universal joint removal tool (I don't like to use the sledgehammer and the vice). I am planning to do this job in the winter. But that will be another thread...

If you recall, at the beginning of this thread I said the markings I did on the shaft was unnecessary. Reason is that the shaft can only be assembled one way. A spline is missing inside the shaft:

And on the splined ball stud yoke a metal clip is fastened. Don't remove this clip. 

The yoke and the spline can only fit one way so markings was not necessary, but better to be safe than sorry...

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Anders, good photos and write up! Yes, be safe and mark the drive shaft orientation. I have seen that clip missing on some drive shafts I've worked on. With the clip missing, you can assemble the two halves out of phase or worse. Always mark the shaft, even at the differential flange before removing. Good Job replacing the bearing! I like your tool to remove the nut securing the bearing, I'll have to find one of those for my tool box.

Anders
Very excellent center bearing drive shaft repair info
Just what we need to know to get the job done
This hands on stuff with pictures is Priceless
Making your own tool is creative genius

Drive line vibration and noise are one of the more difficult issues to correct that many here will have to deal with a some point in time

A Great Tread

Enjoy
Good work as always Anders. Now I'm waiting for the next phase of your driveshaft repair. I'm thinking of doing mine in the winter.

Don't forget to wear the same shoes as Anders..... the magic is in the shoes. LOL.

Sorry Anders, but you bought it up first. PMSL (You've done a good job on the shaft too)

I spend a lot of time investigating before doing anything. All jobs have been done by members of this site before I attempt it. So nothing is new. But what I miss from others posts are pictures and reference to parts. Especially new parts that could be a good replacement.

My wish is that each and every job is written about and posted with pictures, so we can learn from each others success and mistakes.

I also upload images as it makes following the post a lot easier than using the "Upload Files". Having the pictures visible right away instead of clicking on each link. Suggest you guys use this function:

What function is that Anders?
Unfortunately that doesn't show on my phone and that's where I post from. I'll have to check my tablet to see if it has those options. Thanks Anders

Excellent tutorial. Thanks. What I do not see are two small parts that are shown on the FSM book illustration, but not here-or anywhere. They are the "split washer" and "Center Slip Yoke Seal". I am putting together my spare driveshaft with a new center bearing and support, but I don't have those two pieces. Are they necessary? Does anyone have them that they'd sell me?

Thanks

Attachments:

Center Slip Yoke Seal is  visible on my picture.

OK, thanks for the clarification. Does it slide over the splines and is the "split washer" in back of it? Looks like I will surely need this part.

The seal stays where it is now. Its the splines that goes all the way in the next shaft and the seal, washer and nut holds it all in position. The splines can move all the way in or out to the seal/nut. In normal condition the splines will be all way in plus an inch. So if you look where the nut is right now on the picture and then just push it all in and tight/lock the nut you will be good to go. You should then be able to move the "splines" back and forth an inch or two. The idea of the splines is to allow turning moment of the shaft and still be flexible. The seal is there to stop grease from dripping out.

I took my shaft apart. Cleaned and replaced what was necessary and then rebuilt it as per above. The propeller shaft is now in excellent condition.

Noted with appreciation and comprehension. Just one question: Does the split washer come right up against the inside of the nut, with the seal after it, or is it the other way around. Thanks.

Does anybody know where to get a good seal (spare or part number) and split washer? For whatever reason both things are missing on the drive shaft I have.

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