Had some sound from the propeller shaft and as the rear wheel bearings just been replaced I thought it would be the center bearing. Removed the propeller shaft and checked the center bearing (as per Jasons video). Found the bearing to be defective and needed to be replaced.

First part was to divide the propeller shaft at the center bearing support. The center bearing support nut was the first obstacle.

Jason suggested to use a adjustable wrench and turn the nut anti clockwise. I was not comfortable with the adjustable wrench so decided to fabricate my own tool. Found a 20 dollar combination wrench and started cutting. Note that the size of nut is approximately 46 mm (if you need the size in inch bring out your own calculator!)

 With the "homemade" wrench it was very easy to remove the nut and divide the shaft.

The result:

Marked all parts of the shaft for easy alignment when assembling (but it was not necessary as I will show at the end of this thread).

The shaft being pulled apart.

Using a sledgehammer and carefully tapping on the slinger removing the center bearing support and bracket. It didn't take much force at all, but you might have to use rust penetrating oil if difficult. Its a bit tricky to take pictures, but I guess you see whats going on...

Here is the shaft with the bearing assembly removed.

Slinger, center bearing support (with bearing still inside) and lock retainer. Note the snap ring is holding the bearing. (Sorry about my ugly sandals).

Snap ring being removed.

Gently tapping on the bearing, removing it from the support. Rust penetrating oil would of course help as well.

Here are all parts.

Bought a new bearing. OEM 904778 and suitable replacement part is SKF 6908-VAL. Size of the bearing is 62x40x15 mm if you buy from another manufacturer.

Pressed in the new bearing using a vise and a 46 mm socket. (44 or 45 mm sockets, if exist, would have been a better choice).

Here its in correct position with fitted snap ring and slinger ready for install onto the shaft.

Everything properly greased and fitted together.

Now it was just to reinstall the the shaft on the car again. Important is to cover the front slip yoke as that is going into the gear box and you don't want any foreign material to enter it.

It was actually very easy to reinstall the shaft. I was worried about finding the two holes for the center bearing support-to-frame bolts. But it was very easy and the installation was a lot easier then the dismantling. Also keep in mind that when you remove the front slip yoke from the gear box, oil will pour out. Make sure you have a drip tray ready. I measured the lost oil when all was done and found the quantity to be around 2 liter. So needed to refill that before starting the car. If you happen to have an extra front slip yoke lying about, you can of course use that to stop the loss of oil!

After test driving the car the sound is a lot better. But I still have some clicking sound from the constant velocity universal joints. Mine were not so good, but after spraying some rust penetrating oil and then grease they are a lot better. Still have ordered two new set of Rockford 403-01 CV Driveshaft repair-kit and five set of MOOG universal joints plus a universal joint removal tool (I don't like to use the sledgehammer and the vice). I am planning to do this job in the winter. But that will be another thread...

If you recall, at the beginning of this thread I said the markings I did on the shaft was unnecessary. Reason is that the shaft can only be assembled one way. A spline is missing inside the shaft:

And on the splined ball stud yoke a metal clip is fastened. Don't remove this clip. 

The yoke and the spline can only fit one way so markings was not necessary, but better to be safe than sorry...

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I have both for $15 + s/h. Just replied to your email. Split washer slides on over the slip yoke then seal slides on over the slip yoke. Just have to pry the split washer out a bit and stretch the seal a bit but both slide over the slip yoke. Split washer goes right up next to the center bearing retaining nut just like it is shown in the shop manual. 

The split washer locks the nut onto the back of the slip yoke section of the driveshaft, and presses up against the seal which presses up against the slip yoke grooves keeping dirt and debris when attached to front driveshaft section.

See picture below:

Got my seal and washer on the way, thanks to Jason. Now, what kind of grease should I coat (slather?) on the splines?

Thanks

OK, got the stuff and put the drive shaft together. Two questions: 1) How tight must the nut be that holds the two halves of the driveshaft together? 2) What is the thread pitch and length of the two bolts that hold the drive shaft carrier to the frame. If I break one coming off I want to have a replacement ready to put in to the new one that I mounted on my spare drive shaft that I am installing.

Thanks

Page 11-14

MUCH appreciation, Anders!

Normal ball bearing grease is good enough. I use SKF ball bearing grease.

Actually, I used wheel bearing grease.

One more question: When putting together the two halves you flatten the lock washer some to tighten the nut, then tap it in on a peak of the nut to lock it. Right?

Amazing help this will be for some of us.
Did you have any other problems other than the sound?

Also had a pinion bearing defect in the rear axle. So I replaced the axle.

Ok. I have no sound but crazy vibration somewhere, can't find it haven't change anything yet but if you didn't have any vibration maybe I have problems elsewhere in the drive shaft.

My problem did come last summer after I drove over my lawn and did go over some bumps.

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