Hey guys.

Im going to be pulling my engine and tranny out soon. Theres some leaks on my engine and tranny. The main reason for this is because i need to paint the engine and engine bay. So i might as well go through everything and replace all gaskets and seals. Im going to be pulling most of the parts off the engine to sandblast and paint. Im pretty new here and was wondering if anyone has a parts list of what i would need. I would want to change front and rear mains seals, valve cover, oil pan seals, etc. If some can help me out with what i will need and maybe what site you guys order off of. That would be appreciated. 

Btw i have 1963 deville series 62. Not sure what transmission it has in it. I have posted pictures of the gear selector since i read on here you can identify tranny from that. I have also posted pictures of the engine so you guys know what im dealing with. LOL. 

Thanks alot guys!

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Tony, you are beating on an old topic like a sick dying horse that I explained in some detail. Basically engine had 3K miles after rebuild, All internals were new, I have a solid tick/tap on right side as of a drive to Charlotte, NC May 2018. I thought it was a dead lifter, took it to the machine shop and let the "guys" come out and give it a listen and they all said dead valve lifter. That was May 2018! Car runs good but has that tick/tap. I bought a full set of quality USA Made Melling Lifters and Pushrods. No sense in trying to find and replace one, when I can replace all lifters and pushrods with more new quality stiff for just over one Ben Franklin note. I will let you guys and gals in Cadillac-Land know if that fixes it when I get to it. Right now I'm in the middle of roofing, electrical, siding, plumbing and all else that goes in with my new house addition. By this time next year I should be freeing up. :-)

Got the heads off. Very minimal ridge at top of cylinders. Walls look pretty good. Ill take some pics when i get home. Does anyone know what the clearance is for main and rod bearings? I was going to plasti guage them. Im not sure if i should pull the pistons and rering them since im already in this far. Its not too costly anyways.

Im going need valve seals for sure. Anyone know which ones i need and are good quality?

Can someone give this gentleman the correct clearances for the rod and crank bearings ?

Try —Rock Auto - for the valve seals 

I use to use PC valve seals in my race engines in the past 

Enjoy 

So i looked at the service manual more in depth and found the specs.

Rod bearings should be replaced if clearance is greater than .0035"

Main bearings should be replaced if more than .0045"

Well the engine is basically torn down. I found some light pitting starting on couple of the cam lobes. I might as well just put a new kanter mild cam in it since im this far already lol. I got new rod and main bearings,lifters on the way also. Just got to do some measurements on the pistons and cylinder walls. Looking for a decent set of outside micrometers. Only going to use them very rarely anyways. Im going to start cleaning everything and start reassembly. I got some pics. Im just taking this nice and slow. I dont really have a deadline. I got a couple things to do on the car anyways. Now is a good time to do it all.

I noticed the pistons little bit different. It seems like someone might have changed one of them.

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The rings of our Cadillac engine are very hard metal that takes a bit longer to seat to the cylinder walls of the engines than in some other cases 

So some oil consumption will happen until that  seating is complete 

Be very careful to put the push rod assemblies on the correct way —as they are installed backwards by many pro engine builders which is a killer of a new engine start up for the engines longevity 

Enjoy 

When the front engine cover is off inspect the oil pump housing for wear and be sure that the piston there moves freely with no debri present 

A few times there have been oil pressure issues at a new engine start up —-if debri from a rebuild gets into the oil pump piston from metal or excessive sealant used ( the worst scenerio) 

Firing the engine for its first start up after the rebuild is an extremely important time that will have a direct effect on how the engine will perform for the long haul ( seating and polishing metal to metal surfaces ) 

Special instructions need to be understood and followed at that Important time 

All engine bolts SB retorqued after reaching operating temps 

Just a heads up on a few trouble spots that are unique to our Cadillac engines 

If the above is old news — just Forgetaboutit ! —-LOL!

Enjoy 

The shop manual says there's letters stamped indicating piston and cylinder size. I couldn't find it, looked around. Does anyone know where it is or have a picture?

They are on the flange where the valley pan gasket goes.  I don't have a picture of them, but if you have disassembled down to the block, the letters will be there above each set of lifter bores.  Since someone already did some work on your engine, and it was fifty years ago they were stamped, the letters by now have no meaning, but it's cool for posterity's sake.

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