Engine Leaks 2.0

[Kim K Kaiser]

ok, i think i got the transmission pan leak done, took for 3 hour ride, and nothing has shown up on the street after about a 4 hour cool down, so hoping thats history,

while under car over last few days, i had chance to do a lot of cleaning, grease build up removal between parts, and general cleaning,,

i had mentioned in prior post, something was coming out of the inspection plate,, well, a little oil is coming out, not enough to stream back to the back of the plate, but, some

the other part that i was able to find some seepage, was at the connection between the inspection plate structure and the engine part right in front of the plate where it goes into that inspection plate structure, there are a couple of those long rubber nipples up in there and i can see some streaming coming down from that connection.  It was very dry and clean before i left as the car hasnt been moved for several days since i cleaned it all up.  

anyway, given the above info,  and from my first nuisance leak post, i got this answer from Russ for the oil leaking from the inspection plate,

Engine oil in the trans inspection cover is a leaking engine rear main seal.

So im am guessing at a minimum, this is leaking and needs replacement,  would the leaking from the connection between the front of the inspection plate structure and place where the leaking is coming down from the rubber nipple area connection be that same rear main seal or is there an additional seal in there.

as for the repair(s) ,, is that an engine dismantle, transmission removal or can it be done with out removing the major structures there.  

Sincerely

Kim

[Kim K Kaiser]

weather permitting, I'm gonna try to get this seal changed over next few days,  i got  the BEST gasket 3812 (replaces the 3512 S) ,, manifold gaskets, and oil pan gaskets, some thread locker, 

Manual states

""12. Prior to assembly of rear main bearing cap on block, apply rubber cement to cap and block, Fig. 9-33. Apply a film approximately .010 inch thick to each surface to act as a sealer.

CAUTION: Keep rubber cement off the seal lip and the bearing surface to avoid damage to the seal and crankshaft.""

QUESTION  >> is this directing me to put cement over the entirety of the flat metal connecting parts of the bearing and seal where they touch together and avoid getting it on the gasket itself down in where it has been slotted in and the shaft spins?

Also, its not stated in the manual, but should a grease or oil be applied to the gasket before reinstalling to make sure its not dry when its started??  

i have read so many articles on this and the diagram sent with the main seal on which way it fits, does nt line up with the design of the gasket.  

SO , simply there is a fat side and a thin side.. which side goes toward the front of the car.??. i read somewhere the fat side, but wasnt sure if it was here or on a you tube video on a chevy engine, 

secondly,, should there be the old "rope type " gasket in place or did they go to the regular looking gasket in 63.  some of the you tube videos suggest the rope gasket can be difficult to remove,   (this engine has been re built  in the late 90s, so i am guessing it was replaced in that process.

Any other tips in R and R of associated parts to access the pan?

sincerely

Kim

[Kim K Kaiser]

I will Tony

Attached is the gasket profile.  Does the flat side gontoward front or the slanted side.  

[Kim K Kaiser]

Thr reason i am asking these specific questions on materials, lineups, silicon or not  Is i have read on the site all this site relative to rear main seal, and of the people who have attempted,  they have all had a recurring leak,  whether they followed direction to a T or deviated in things such as lining up gasket flush to block Or offset. Super glue vs contact cement.  Things like that were the book says one thing and it still doesnt produce a proper result.  I dnt hv the proper lifting situation to do this over and over, thus the number of what may seem simple questions.  Plus, as i hv stated before,  i am complete novice and i have never removed an oil pan, so there is a trepdation to attempting something that experienced people have had trouble with, so my confidence level is limted at best

[Kim K Kaiser]

Thanks Tony.

I called az vintage. Who sells the best gaskets,  they said to use the anoeribic sealant, as it will cure in no oxygen environment because of the tite fit of the machned parts,  regular rtv wont cure properly.  That was there recommendation on the two part 63 seal .  Also said wat you did regarding lubrication and installing of seal .  Thanks again for you help.  Will see how it goes

[3ft7bqmb7dryo]

I just remembered that the rear mail seal to get is from Best gaskets.  Fel Pro is wrong and they are stubborn and refuse to listen. The seal they have is for the 62 and below.

[Kim K Kaiser]

Yeah,  i trad your post from an earlier discussion about your hearst, so i got it from az vintage parts.  They were helpfull.  There is a new upgraded gasket from the part number you posted several years ago

[Jason Edge]

The Kanter Deluxe rebuild kit included the Best RS663G Engine gasket kit. Still get a drip leak when engine sits cold for a while. Less a problem when driven often. 

[Jason Edge]

I don't remember what I used. It may be in my notes I posted somewhere 7 years ago. I sort of remember using recommended black RTV sealant. 

[Kim K Kaiser]

I know this seems trivial to the experienced, but i was doing some pre lim looking under car tonight for this repair.   The manual says detach and reset the exhaust.  from looking at the connections, there looks to be only one way to do that and that is from the underside of the connection and remove the nuts from the underside of the connection.     i cant even see the connection from the top side of the engine... 

Is that correct?  

secondly,   it also calls for detach of idler arm support mounting screw from frame side member.  from the diagram attached from the manual, is it referring to the idler arm circled in the diagram from the frame,, or am i missing the boat here.

again, thanks for your patience and assistance.

[Kim K Kaiser]

Here is a youbtube video of a 390 cadillac engine, out of car, bearing replacement.  He doesnt mention type of sealer but lookingvatvthe bottle and brush he uses, looks like a plumbing cement.  Anyway.    Its 390 related, so i am posting the link

https://youtu.be/fgYWM39IcWs