18 years back and many miles since, I replaced the Factory original Mode Actuator and heater core. Well, a couple of weeks back the replacement Mode Actuator failed. I ordered a new Actuator from Old Air Products. I figured even though the Heater core was still good, not leaking, I might as well replace it while I had everything apart. I ordered the new heater core from Rock Auto. I have the Heater Box assembled but I haven't installed it under the dash, yet. For anyone interested, I uploaded to my page, some pictures of the Heater Box, etc. I was able to remove the Heater Box from under the dash without removing the blower housing from the engine bay firewall or removing the hood hinge, as the shop manual lists to do.
Nice work on the 63 Ac heat box and the fuel pump
You got me thinking ( reminding me ) about jumping into doing my 64 comfort control which I have purchased all the parts for a short while ago
Been to hot in Florida but the weather will be getting real sweet very soon
I realize I am hung up on what to do about removing the passenger hood hinge to get the project started as I do need to get into the blower box myself
That engine hood is a serious heavy weight item to be dealing with
Most of all I miss not having my heater working for those —brisk very cool nights coming home from a day out with the top down
The 429 buts out enough heat when called on to heat a small apartment building —LOL !
Always enough heat to keep the front seat extremely comfortable with the top down
I seldom use the AC because the top is always down but I still need to have it working correctly in my pride and joy
Hi Tony, thanks for the kind words. As Russ and I stated, no need to remove the hood or hinge to get the under dash ductwork out. There are 6 speed nuts securing the duct to the firewall. All can be removed with a deep well 1/4 inch drive socket and long extensions and a universal joint. The nut under the hinge area will require a little fanagling, but it is doable.
The Airtex fuel pump failed at 15k miles. It spit the intake valve out. As you can see in the picture, it was not staked in at the factory.
Understood about getting the under dash air box out with the passenger hinge in place
Can the blower motor box and the evaporator with the suction valve ( on the inner fender ) be remove as well with the hinge in place even if it takes a bit more effort doing it that way ?
I do have a 64 with comfort control so the 63 SB a bit different design than mine
On the 63, I think the blower housing could be removed after removing the heater box without having to remove the hinge. I've never removed the evaporator, but would think it would then be removed following the shop manual steps.
Removing the under dash air box and then the blower box sounds like a good plan
With the blower box out should be easier to get to the evaporator out to check it’s condition
Working around the hinge looks like a good plan from the posts here
It is possible to epoxy glue the valve in the fuel pump to hold it in place permanently
Epoxy is gasoline proof and I have repaired fuel pumps in the past with it that held up for the very long haul
i clean the surface with 91 % alcohol first
Just another way to get that repaired done to last
Hard to believe the valve was never installed correctly by the manufacture so most should pass on the Airtech brand unless they choose to do this repair before installing the fuel pump into the car now being aware of the problem with the brand
The Airtech fuel pumps are short lived as a rule due to the manufacturers oversight if the problem is not addressed
Russ was the first one I remember to bring this to the attention of the community
I'm still chasing vacuum leaks on the 63 A/C system. Trying to remove the A/C control switch panel so I can check the vacuum switch. The shop manual says after unbolting and disconnecting the switch assembly, to remove it from the dash. I haven't been able to thread it out of the dash going up or down. Has anyone had success, what am I missing? Thanks.
I remove them with the entire dash out so that will not help you but looking at the 63 & 64 shop manuals, the 63 say to disconnect the left AC outlet hose (note 15.a pg 15-9), and of course on note 14a. you have a series of disconnects such as Bowden cables, etcs. and assume hall have been disconnected, lower instrument (dash) panel removed etc. The other thing I noticed is the 64 shop manual did say to bring it out from the top ... but the 64's other than the series 75, have a different shaped, upper steering column hanger bracket, so that might be why the difference. Regardless, it will probably just take a good light and some patience and be ready to temporarily disconnect or move things. It is busy back behind there.
Thanks Jason. The path looked better going out the top but I couldn't get it past the speedometer and upper cowl. I became frustrated after about an hour of twisting and turning it all around and decided to call it a day. I'll go back at it in a day or so to see if I can get it to cooperate. Maybe someone else has been there and can give us some pointers on getting it removed.
Move the fuse box out of the way.
Thanks Russ. I suspected that you or Jason had been there before. I'll try that when I get back to it.
I was able to get the A/C control panel out this morning. As Jason suggest from the 64 shop manual it came out the top. I did have to remove the headlight switch to get clearance and even then it was tight. I tried moving the fuse panel as Russ suggested but that didn't work out.
Is there a way to restore the A/C 6 port vacuum switch? Are there sources for new replacements? The one in my 63 seems to have a good amount of seepage to it. The 3 port heat control switch seeps a little, but not as much as the 6 port.
After removing the headlight switch I noticed the Ceramic around the dash light resistor was broken. Can that be repaired with JB weld or something similar? It is in two pieces held together by the resistor wire.