I have and read the book. I don’t understand how to measure for adjustment.  Any help would be great. Thanks Dave 

Views: 88

Reply to This

Replies to This Discussion

This will be a little bit complicated, because I don't have one handy to make pictures, and I can't find a pic online.  
You can only approximate the location by measuring it, final adjustment needs to be made by measuring the wheel's caster, but you can get it close enough by measuring the old location, assuming that it wasn't bent.  You need to find the location of the inner locknut on the original, and just use that as your starting point to get it to the alignment shop.   If you didn't move the nut, just install it as is.  If you are planning to remove the nut for cleaning/painting, you need to measure from the edge of the nut to the center of the mounting hole, write that down and retighten it to the same position after painting.   If you have already painted it, you can probably see still where the clean part of the threads are, which will indicate the original location of the nut.
When you take it to get aligned, you need to make sure that the shop is even interested in adjusting the caster first.   Having worked briefly in a tire shop in my younger days, I can tell you that most places don't do caster because modern cars have no adjustment, and frankly mechanics don't want to mess with it.   It's usually adjusted only when you complain after getting a bad alignment.  You will have to make sure you say specifically that you're there for caster adjustment, and check the printout they give you to make sure they bothered adjusting it.
When it comes time to have the caster adjusted, since you have the book, you have the original specs.   The original caster spec is good for bias ply tires, but no good for radials.   Bias ply tires are flexible, and go egg shaped at higher speed, which gives an extra degree of positive caster, because the point of road contact is one degree or so behind the centerline of the spindle.  Radial tires stay round until much higher speeds, so the caster will need to be adjusted +1 degree positive for radial tires.   You should take the shop manual specs with you to compare the specs they give on the printout with the specs in the book, if you're running radials, have them add one to the caster in the book, but if you're running Coker bias or similar, use the original data.

Thanks for taking the time to help answer my question!  Good point on radial tires which I do run. So your saying that their a alignment machine that is needed to set the caster?  You cannot set the caster at home with a bubble level? Thanks Dave

you could possibly do a decent home alignment, not perfect, but good enough.
There is a tool available to do rough caster/camber at home, I have one, and it works well, but it attaches to the wheel hub magnetically and doesn't factor out runout or surface damage on the hub.  for some reason, when I try pasting an image of it, it covers the text, no matter how I change the html, so google caster camber adjustment tool and you'll see it.  

the one I have:
http://www.longacreracing.com/products.aspx?itemid=1798&prodid=...

The problem you will have doing it with a level are manifold: 

number one, the place you put the level must be chosen to negate runout.   I mean to say that you will need to the rim to rest the level on, but the rim can vary from true by enough to throw off your measurements by degrees.  So you will need to clean the rim and use a dial indicator to find the points of highest and lowest axial runout, and then put those points at the 3 o clock and 9 o'clock position, so the closest to average parts of the rim are in the vertical line where camber is measured. You cannot use the tire to rest the level against, because the measurements must be taken on the ground with the suspension at ride height, and the weight will bulge the bottom of the tire, making it useless as a reference.  Make sure the level doesn't touch the tire, that all measurements are taken on the rim or from a jig mounted to the spindle.

number two, levels are not graduated for degrees.    Carpenter levels are not graduated at all, and machinist levels are graduated in thousands of inches or in tenths millimeters horizontally.  So you would have to do some math, basic trigonometry.  You will need to measure exactly the distance between the points of contact between the level and the rim and then figure out exactly how far that point is away from level.   You will need to divide the distance away from plumb by the distance between the points of contact, and this will give you the sine for the camber angle, in radians.   You will then need to find out what angle that corresponds with in degrees, either online, or if you have a machinist's book or trig textbook, you can use the charts there.      The corresponding number is the camber for where the wheel is sitting.  To find the caster, you need to turn the wheel twenty degrees to the right from straight ahead, measure the camber, turn it back twenty degrees to the left from straight ahead, remeasure, and then subtract the second camber from the first.    This sounds much harder than it actually is, and it can be done, but it will only be as accurate as the level you're using and the corrections you make for the floor the car sits on.  If you have a machinists level and a dial indicator, you can probably do a better alignment than a shop, who may never bother calibrating their machines, but if you have a carpenter's level, you'd just be coming close enough.


I do all my own alignments with this set available on Amazon and Summit Racing for $209, works great.

Tenhulzen Auto 3300 2-Wheel Alignment System All-in-one Tool (Camber/Caster/Toe Plates)

Dave, don't buy the cheap stuff the other guys suggest. Go pro.

HawkEye Elite® Alignment Machine

;-)

I agree, technically I didn't suggest anything, but if I did, i'd suggest using Anders' credit card and going nutzo.   LOL  

My actual suggestion is going to a shop, finding a guy over 30 to work on the car, tipping him to do it right, and buying a lifetime alignment.  Then you can take it back every year if you like, since you're keeping the car.  
But, if you're the type who absolutely needs to do it yourself, I like to give tips on how to do it, why not to do it, and how it can go wrong.  Please don't take them as suggestions, some of the people on this site have a problem with being the last word on things, i'm not doing that, just illuminating the process for people who find it interesting.

My post was intended as a joke. Nothing else. My CC is maxed out. Bought four new nice tires (white wall ofc) for the Buick Estate Wagon today. It made an even bigger hole in the CC!

Mark, I truly enjoy reading your recommendations, explanations and suggestions. Thanks for taking your time writing.

Thanks All!! I am going to take it to a outstanding shop with old guys at the helm! In San Diego!

RSS

Photos

  • Add Photos
  • View All

Forum

'64 Deville Conv. passenger power windows problem

Started by Michael Vogler in 1963/64 Cadillac Specific Discussion. Last reply by Michael Vogler 18 hours ago. 4 Replies

all four power windows work from the driver's control panel, but none of the passenger windows work from the passenger switches.  Is this a master switch problem or an wiring problem?   Thanks for…Continue

Time of year to be checking your antifreeze ( coolant ) numbers —-Nov

Started by Tony and Ginny 429 in 1963/64 Cadillac Specific Discussion 23 hours ago. 0 Replies

Good time of year to be checking your coolant to see what temp it will freeze at Giving  you enough time to do a coolant change— if it is time to do so —-or —if your freeze at temp numbers are to…Continue

Tags: check, Coolant

Current 1963/64 Cadillac Listings on eBay

Started by Jason Edge in For Sale. Last reply by Jason Edge yesterday. 0 Replies

To see all 1963/64 Cadillacs Listed on eBay in the USA…Continue

Tags: ebay

Interiors in the PNW

Started by keith price in Restoration Discussion. Last reply by Jason Edge yesterday. 3 Replies

Just wondering if anyone knows of a place to get interiors done in the Pacific Northwest. I'm looking at seats, door cards and headliner. I live in the Tacoma Washington area so west side is…Continue

Blog Posts

1964 Cadillac Fleetwood sixty special / transmission dipstick needed

Posted by Pablo on September 20, 2020 at 9:57pm 1 Comment

How are you doing folks, I’m looking for a transmission dipstick, any info I will appreciated, thank you very much

1963 Cadillac hood driver side hinge

Posted by Steven on September 16, 2020 at 9:23am 1 Comment

Hello,

 Does anyone know were I can buy a 1963 Cadillac hood driver side hinge or is there any other hinge that would fit? 

Thanks

Steven

Bad Guage?

Posted by Karl Schwarz on August 26, 2020 at 3:08pm 6 Comments

So I am troubleshooting my fuel gauge issue. I bought a new sender and tested it. It  it goes from 1-ohm (empty) to 35-ohm (full). When I test it (outside the tank), when the float is in the up (full) position it only moves the gauge to about 1/2 full. When at the bottom (empty) position the gauge shows empty. This is the same issue I have when I fill and then use the gas in the tank - the gauge never reads ore than half full. Based on what I've read on this thread it would seem like the…

Continue

Website

Posted by Fritz Seitz on August 11, 2020 at 2:35am 0 Comments

I have been working on a website-----www.fritzsautorepair.com-----

Does anyone have suggestions?

Videos

  • Add Videos
  • View All

© 2020   Created by Jason Edge.   Powered by

Badges  |  Report an Issue  |  Terms of Service