I have the worst vibration/pulsation when braking. 

To replace the drum,  I pressed the hub out of the drum (but Im an amateur and fear I may have ruined the hub). I bought shoes from an auto parts chains and replaced the bearings and races. 

Anyway, I had a machine shop remove the studs and replace with a hub-less set up because he felt that swedging the old hubs onto on to the new drums was unnecessary.

I had a crazy vibration. They THEN turned the drums and also turned the hub to give me a flat surface. They replaced the studs with studs that don't require swedging. I even replaced the drums AGAIN but I still have terrible vibration. 

My options are: replace the hubs (in case I ruined them), arc new shoes, go power disc. 

Any Ideas?!?!

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Been thru this myself ,same thing
You have inferior brake shoe material , that cannot handle the heat being generated by the large 12 inch brakes , on these cars
It is called glazing ,and Heat will cause the brake friction material , to get shinny and crack them
Sorry to tell you ,you need to replace your brake shoes ,with Raybestos brake linnings
My symtom was the car would start to violently Chatter ,just before it came to a full stop ,but it felt like the front bumper was going to fall off the car
This is the way my auto shop gave the car back to me
It took a long time for me to realize the cause of the problem ,to fix it
Like doing the brake job all over again
This was one of the more difficult issues ,i have delt with ,and i have been doing my own brakes on my own cars for 50 years
My drums are the new free float type , same as those that you installed
They work great
New drums should not need to be cut
Raybestos archs the brake shoes to the drum ,which was always done in auto shops back in the day , when these cars were new
That was standard proceedure ,when purchasing new brake shoes ,at the store
Raybestos were the only brakes used ,for the entire 51 years my car is alive ,except for that one time explained above ,when i had the work done by an auto shop

are you saying that I should find a place that arches the raybestos shoes, buy the new raybestos pads and drums together, or that the shoes will already be arched (somehow?). 

how would i know if I warped my hubs while pressing out the old drums (keeping in mind that the machine shop cut a layer off the hubs to make them true.)

PS when I torque the lug nuts down after installing the shoes/drums relatively snug, I can't turn the wheel anymore. whats going on?

Just my opinion ,but when the brakes are working on point , there is no need to change the system in any way
They stop this heavy car ,on a dime !
I can say that for my 64 and my 62
Never any brake fade ,ever !

Get new raybestos shoes, and hopefully that will cure the braking vibrations.  Make sure the drums are not glazed over. Clean the inside friction surface area with brake cleaner and steel wool. 00 should do it.

i would not be concerned about the drums at all ,they are almost impossible to damage
Not a problem if they have been cut ,all good
Use alcohol to clean off any grease on the drums and rough the metal braking surface up
I use 100 grit sand paper
The brake shoes come arched already from raybestos

When you pull a drum off ,you should be seeing shinny ,cracked brake shoes ,caused by inferior friction material ( these brakes are large for a passenger car )

you need to back off the brake adjustment ,as the drum should not lock up when you torque down the lugs
You adjustment is to tight

To check if your brake adjustment is correct ,put the tire on the car with two lugs
Now spin the tire ,one complete turn ,until it stops were you started
That is correct
Take the car out for a drive ,the car should roll very slightly from a complete dead stop ,when you relase the brakes
If the brakes are to tight ,it could be a problem for the trans ,so be sure you roll a bit once the brakes are hot
If you atill have your stock self adjusters ,and they are working as they should ,just backing up ,will adust the brakes in the future
The fact that our brake adjustment - slot - is on the front of the brake drums ,makes this job a bit different ,than most cars , with the slot on the rear of the brake housing ,but all the principles are the same
Do change the brake springs ,if you have no idea ,when that may have been done
You will find two sets available ,those for self adjusting brakes OR those to remove the self adjusters
I choose to keep my self adjuster ,as the slot on the front of our drums ,makes brake adjustments more of a pain ,than it SB
So in you experience, does this look like normal imperfection? Keep in mind the machine shop didn't say anything after they turned them. http://youtu.be/c1WvhxmX930

Something isn't right. That drum should not wobble like that.

I understand that the shoes can cause vibration on the road, but both the drum and pads have only a couple minutes of driving on them and the wobble in my video makes me suspect the hubs again.
Possible I didn't seat my races property?
Tighten the front hub bolt down fairly hard ,( then you will know the bearings are seated ) then back off ,until the wheel spins ,smmoth and free ( about 1 -2 turns aprox )
You should be able to feel the tire you now have on the car ( two lugs ) feel smooth
Can grab the tire on the top and bottom ,and left and right ,and feel it for any play there
Then place the cotter pin in the nut and hub on
The races could be adjusted loose now ,from what you are indicating
What video are you taking about ,and what is wobbling ,you are taking about ?
It is important that you seated the races ,all the way into there seat ,when installing them
Load the bearings up with grease ,pushing it into the roller bearings

If you still have a problem ,change the shoes

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