I have the worst vibration/pulsation when braking.
To replace the drum, I pressed the hub out of the drum (but Im an amateur and fear I may have ruined the hub). I bought shoes from an auto parts chains and replaced the bearings and races.
Anyway, I had a machine shop remove the studs and replace with a hub-less set up because he felt that swedging the old hubs onto on to the new drums was unnecessary.
I had a crazy vibration. They THEN turned the drums and also turned the hub to give me a flat surface. They replaced the studs with studs that don't require swedging. I even replaced the drums AGAIN but I still have terrible vibration.
My options are: replace the hubs (in case I ruined them), arc new shoes, go power disc.
Take the drum off, and check that the race is fully seated. Then spin the hub only on the axle. Get a coat hanger, and open it up. Wrap one end around the suspension area. Bend the other end of the hanger so it just touches the side of the hub. Spin the hub, and any wobble will be detected buy the hanger rubbing on the hub.
If that passes, then put the drum on, and repeat. If the drum wobbles, but not the hub, then the drum is bad.
UPDATE: Did the Raybestos pads, didn't help. Just got back from the machine shop. It seems like you have only ONE option for NEW drums. The same old drums made in china and used by every manufacturer. Keep in mind that I purchased two sets of drums now, one pair from OPGI that cost twice as much. They are exactly the same. Anyway, they found two problems:
1) The drums don't fit snug on the hub. He showed me the fit of the original drum and the fit of this drum, and its loose. Every time you tighten the lugs, the drum sits at a different location. Not good for a brake lathe :/ Solution: drill and tap set screws.
2) (See picture.) All of these drum have a weight welded to the drum for balance. This weight actually contacts the original wheel and warps the whole set up when you torque the lug nuts. I mentioned this earlier in the thread that torquing the nuts seized the wheel. Solution: pry off the balance from the drum and re-balance the wheel.
So this is a crap-fest. If anyone has originally 15" steelies and finds these balanced chinese drums I would have to say:
1) go disc
2) find original drums (still attached to the hub) from russ or jason
3) Do this ridiculous Frankenstein drill, tap and balance dance.
4) Maybe someone will start making better drums.
I changed my '63 to disc, one of the first things I did to improve the handling. I still have all the original set-up intact, drums and all. If interested in these parts (which are in good condition) I can be reached at my home email firstname.lastname@example.org. In my opinion disc is the way to go on these land yachts, and the OPG kit was a fairly simple install with only a minor adjustment to the inner fender well to clear the larger booster.
The holes on any drum (even old ones) are larger than the standard studs. Originally the hubs were swedged (or swaged) to the drum using studs with a shoulder that is pressed with something like 25tons thus pressing the shoulder into the hole of the drum. So the hole has to be larger, but nonetheless, that would be solved by a drum with a tight fitting around the hub. Maybe I could have used studs with the shoulder, but then skipped the pressing/swedging process. Someone reading this may have to try someday if the swedging tools go obsolete.
Although, Tony and Ginny 429 you are right that using the shoes to center the drum would have worked, but the machine shop already tapped and added the set screws, and when that didnt work asked me to being the wheel down. It was then that he discovered the problem (using paint).
I have original wheels. The new drums and the old drums are made completely differently. You can see in my picture below that the old drum was recessed with recessed balancing weights, and the new weights are RIGHT where there is a lip on the back of the steel wheel. Sheesh. What a crappy coincidence.
Yes Mark. I am now about $400 in (the machine shop is a little on the high side) and had I known I would have considered disc more. That being said, I go through great lengths to get this car to original and I am quite fond of the drum set-up. So I would have started the whole process with a complete drum and hub from Jason.
The picture of the "cheap" drum was a generic one off the internet. I have the "correct" drum that every internet site and store in existence has for our car (I called around and the machine shop called around)
Yes, my drum has the slot on the face and the weight is still in the same unfortunate spot. I found an image off of amazon for you for a 1964 caddy. It looks more like my drum. And still the weight strikes the inside rim. We used paint to verify and took measurements too.... the weight sticks out, strikes the wheel and visibly warps both the wheel and drum as verified by a brake lathe.
What may be a cheap fix, is to get a wheel spacer. I use a 5/16 wheel spacer on the front of my disk brake conversion. There may be thinner spacers, so you don't have to put in longer wheel studs.
Get some children's play dough, and use that for a measuring tool.
If that doesn't work, I have plenty of used original drums.