Everything went quite well switching from Carter to Edelbrock, except for usual issues(no place to mount the transmission kickdown switch). Car runs and starts much better! BUT, it leaks on the choke side, tightened properly with a new gasket supplied by Edelbrock. I will try a new gasket, and reluctant to use "gasket sealer" with gasoline, though I might try it if I have to. There's no adapter between the carb and manifold. The manifold top was spotless, apparently recently machined as it had swirl marks, so the surfaces are pristine with no old gasket material. Don't want to return the carb but may have to.
ALSO...the new carb has a PCV hole in front, with no hose from my car to match(the old carb did not have this.) Just plug that hole up? Otherwise, everything matched and I think the electric choke will be much better than the old style on the Carter.
THANKS to all the awesome people who comment with authority on this forum!
1964 DeVille Convertible
Tony, I disagree that the intake manifold and heads need to come off. If the choke tube in the intake is not leaking, then the intake does not need to come off. Just plug the 2 exh holes in the top of the intake where the carb sits.
I would just tap and plug the holes with a plug. That way you can go back to original if needed/desired.
Now if the intake choke tube is cracked and leaking exh into the choke tube passage, then the intake must be pulled.
And to all the beginning mechanics out there, I say dive right in and learn as you go. There was a time when all I had way my 63 for transportation. I couldn't let the car sit torn apart because it had to take me to work on Monday. But now I can take her apart and tinker. I have my truck.
I have made mistakes that cost a lot, but I learned and that is what makes the cars go zoom.
I see that my long Carb Project thread causes a lot of confusion. It is the history of what I went through and unless you go through everything, including the pages of Q&A and understand my conclusions clearly you will try to repeat all my steps such as removing choke tubes, filling intake ports, etc, which are absolutely unnecessary, and actually didn't give me the end results I was looking for, until I took the last steps.
I have posted a new Summary on Edelbrock 1406/11 Installation tips that I have gathered. I will post this as a separately and link to in from the Help Page. A direct link to the old Carb Project thread will be removed and instead include a link to it in the new post for anyone that wants to go back through the history of my carb project and understand my conclusions:
Here is the new summary:
Edelbrock 1406 & 1411 Installation Summary
Great, thanks for that. New Edelbrock 1406 and Transdapt adapter are arriving today via Amazon, so I will go at this one more time. Appreciate all this deep assistance and will get this right.
Do you have a California car with the hose from the valve cover to the air cleaner ?
If the answer is yes --that would be why you have no PVC pipe going from under your intake manifold to the front of the new Edelbrock -- or --the old PVC inlet on the bakerlite carb spacer
Both the bakerlite Pvc inlet and the Edelbrock PVC inlet need to be blocked ( both ) if no PVC hose is present at the front of the carb or you will have a very major vacuum ( air ) leak into the intake- making you run real lean and Hot in the cylinders
My --idiot mechanic --gave me back my car with the inlet going into the bakerlite spacer left completely open ( not plugged) when i had him install my 1406
You almost could not see the inlet was open -due to the PVC hose going to the new Edelbrock inlet being exactly on top of the old bakerlite inlet -as it was covering the inlet to some degree
I feel for any of you who have to depend solely on shops and mechanics to keep you car running correctly
Being a gear head and racing cars all my life i can correct all things that these less than qualified mechanics leave for you to do after --they FIXED your car
ALL models going to all 50 states have the PCV system. It is the Cali cars that have the sealed oil fill cap and extra tube from the valve cover to the air cleaner. Non Cali cars have the vented oil fill cap.
Yes, Tony, this is why I did the job myself, I don't think mechanics will do the details on a 1964 car unless they specialize in them.
i do understand you point about the the choke tube being ok to block on one side ( the top of the manifold ) —if it is not damaged and leaking
Thanks for that
I think I am confused about that due to the fact my mechanic had a need to pull my manifold off and block both ends of the choke tube and my tube was not damaged -at that time
i had my 1406 installed by a shop when I had the car gone over from the front bumper to the back bumper
in 2006 for 5,000 dollars
i had come into some money so I had a shop do what I would often do myself
when I got the car back I had to go completely over all the brake work done as inferior new brake shoes were installed and and were Glazing due to the inferior friction material on them
The entire front of the car was shaking violently
The Car was given back to me with the engine running —Extremely Badly also
A new carb ignition wires and plugs were installed
The tune was way off as was the timing when checked
These mechanics find no need to tune a car properly even if they do a complete engine job which is often the case on this site over the years
How can they give you back a car less than running perfect after a major engine overhaul or going over the entire car from one end to another - is simply beyond me and done to many time on here
The purpose can only be to get you back to the shop and charge you more to do what they should have done already
This is the sol reason you need to know how to correct things on the car yourself and have the skills needed to get the car Road Worthy after spending all that money and time at your local auto repair ( often rip off ) shop
Thank you for correcting my California car --Valve cove venting confusion
Happy Father Day my friend
We are getting to the bottom of your missing PVC hose here
Its missing !
The hose runs from a --valve --( on the valley pan ) under the intake manifold to the front of the intake - up over the top of the intake to the front of the carb
A PCV valve is placed in the hose and an additional piece of hose is place in front of the PVC valve and that hose goes into the front of the carb
Use clamps and seal all hoses associated with the carb ( no air leaks )
Preston, As noted all 1963/64 Cadillacs have a PCV valve pipe, hose and valve that feed to the intake to carb insulator on the stock carbs and to the PCV nipple at front bottom of the Edelbrocks.
As seen in illustration from shop manual and pictures below, you have a PCV Feed Tube that attaches to the rear top valley pan cover via a long bolt and flat washer at the rear canister then feeds under the intake forward to a rigid rubber hose with spring inside (from the factory), then curves up and back around toward the carb, and attaches to a PCV valve, then to a short hose, then to the insulator (factor) or carb (Edelbrock).
I can set you up with everything including the feed pipe, good used hoses, clamps and new PCV Valve for $50. If you are want it authentic and can include correct original spring clamps in places of the aftermarket work gear clamps for a total of $60. I should be able to ship all to US destinations 2 to 3 day Priority for $10 for a total of $60 or $70 depending on clamps. If interested shot me an email to firstname.lastname@example.org.
Great explinstion and photos
Jason has what you are missing and you need to be replacing in your cars engine to return to stock normal engine beathing performance
That hose and PVC valve--vacuums oil mist out of the engine block and down the carb thru the engine --
Cleaning the crankcase in the process
This is some of the info you were seeking in the begining of this tread regarding parts you are now missing