Having trouble getting to controlling power windows from driver and passengers seat controllers.

  Can only operate windows from DRIVERS controls with lockout switch in EMERGENCY POSITION.

  Just  replaced power window relay with a known working relay-- still not working in any position other than emergency.

QUESTIONS::  What COLOR WIRE  lead is supposed to operate the Power Window relay. Which color wire leads are cut through the relay contact AND is /which one of them is the hot lead side ?



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Check page 12-102 and 12-103 in the shop manual (1964).

16-114 is also very good:


 SO the dark blue wire with white tracer operates the power window relay  and the red wire is the HOT wire.

Is there a diagram of the contacts in the power window cut out switch itself?

AND which way it should be plugged into the POWER WINDOW cut-out switch connector-like red on the left OR right?


I think there are some pictures of the connectors. Suggest you check YOUR shop manual.

Have not found diagram of the actual contacts or which way the cut out switch is to be installed in our manual. Will get back to testing latter today to continue figuring out what is still incorrect .



I do think you have some broken wires between the drivers door
When you open the drivers door were the hinges are you will see a rubber covering accross the opening
Remove that cover being careful they are hard to replace
Under thst covering are a number of wire that get broken from years of movement of the drivers door
The power for the windows comes into the door from that group of wires
The wires are color coated So easy to know what to join and if broken best to solder and heat shrink the repairs if possible
I Once i used the eggcorn nuts used for home electrical wire joining to join the wires until i could do the solder work correctly
Be prepared to add a piece of wire when needed to help joint the wiring in that tight space and will allow a bit more slack for wire movement to prevent future wire damage
That should be what you need to know


Tony, Thanks. I have all those wires exposed and getting to check them out and the relay connections to. Will do continuity and checks to the door connectors to. This car had all three wires to the cutout switch disconnected with two of them twisted together in the door when we got it? So someone bypassed a wiring  problem years ago.  Already replaced the relay with a known good one from Russ. Not sure if the cutout switch we have is good yet either, that.s why I was looking for info on the cutout switches contacts.


Is the battery feed through the POWER WINDOW RELAY strong enough to operate the power windows with the engine not running.

I am only able to operate all windows, from the drivers side, with the cutout switch in the emergency position. I have the Power window relay working and it puts positive battery on the feed contact on the left front door window master control switch. The engine is NOT running and with the cutout switch in the center position OR normal the windows will not operate.

Hi Tom,

On my car I do not need to run the engine to operate the windows. Using the power windows in normal mode does require ignition turned on. That's why there is an emergency function.

This topic is always present and you can search the site for previous help on Power Windows.

See: Power WIndows Only Work Through Emergency Switch or Power Window RELAY 

Also check 16-103 (1963) or 16-116 (1964) for Typical failures of Power Window in your Shop Manual.

Finally see Jason's u-tube for Testing the Power Window Relay

Anders, Thanks for the info. I now have the culprit down to two possible issues.

1. There is insufficient voltage on the white black with tracer wire to operate any windows with our ignition switch on. The voltage for that wire starts at the fuse block on the red wire, then through the power window relay contacts( operated by the dark blue with white tracer wire-with ignition switch on) to the white with black tracer wire to  become the " feed wire" point on the left front door master window control switch.

 Essentially the power window cut out switch is a bystander in that path- yet.

2. The white with black with tracer wire itself has a damaged/ bad contact point , probably in the door boot area.

 So will check that white black tracer wire path latter today for a poor/ damaged connection.

Again, My engine is NOT running - so the voltage source in the only the car battery which is fully charged.

Well, the voltage should be close to battery voltage. And it doesn't matter if the engine is running or not to test the windows. Using the power windows a lot will of course drain the battery, but I don't need to tell you that.

Have you checked grounding? Its the most common fault on our cars. Cleaning the ground point and apply some good grease will often help.

Grounding for the relay, with the key in the " on" position, is good - so the relay is closing the contacts. Definitely have the voltage passing through the relay. Can operate all windows from the drivers side controls with the cutout switch in the emergency position.  So appears the culprit is related to the white blk tracer wire. Will check that wire and see if its voiltage is close to actual battery voltage. If there is a large voltage drop that should confirm a white blk tracer wire problem OR relay contact problem.

 Checking latter today..

Pretty well understand how this power window system works now.

Still need to verify that the cut out switch is working but that is after the basic wiring is working.

Thanks for the help


Removed tape over  a previous repair spot on the"white blk tracer" wire in the door post area. These wires are normally in the rubber boot and flex when the door is opened/closed.  Most of the wire strands are broken at one spot and there is also a bare spot that could have shorted to the car body itself. Suspect that this is what caused a major voltage drop  causing the power windows to NOT operate in the lock OR normal position.

Will put in a new section of wire and see if we have solved this challenge.




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