I started her up, let her warm up and then out of no where she died. She still starts up but she wont stay running. I just took apart the entire dash and put everything back together. I dont think I should have messed with anything that would control the idle. The reason i think i might have blown a gasket is bc when i went to inspect the motor, there was oil on the underside of the carb, oil on the intake manifold and there was white smoke coming out of the old tube in the side (dont know what its for) Im looking for any ideas why she wouldt stay idling and where should i buy my new gaskets? I want metal pref the ones with the blocker plate.
I dont think I have the Idle Plate for the carb either xD
Kris is the smoke coming out of the intake choke heater hole or the PCV hole? If it's coming out the choke hole you need a new choke tube or if it's not used you need to tap it, bottom and top, and plug it off. If it's the pcv hole it needs to be routed to a manifold vacuum with a pcv hooked inline.
I do believe its the Choke tube. The pcv line is plugged into my carb. I dont use the choke hole in my current build, whats an easy way to block it off, but still be able to reuse it later bc i dont think its damaged.
Kris its damaged if you have smoke coming out of choke tube. If you don't want to tap the intake for bolts to block it off the best way to do it is to block off at the heads. I used roofing flashing cut to small squares with rounded corners. Hi temp gasket glue was used to hold everything to the intake and allowed to dry overnight then a slight light coating before going back on the heads. I do it this way to provent them moving around while sealing and helping prevent new leaks.
Ok, I like the idea of just blocking the head all together. Is the broken choke tube causing a vacuum leak or making the motor run worse? I just want to know what kind of improvement i can expect from removing the choke tube or blocking the heads.
Do you have an aftermarket carburetor with an elctronic choke? If the gaskets are under the carburetor you should not have a vacuum leak. If you go the route of blocking the exhaust crossover at the heads you have to also hit the heat riser at the exit side of your drivers side exhaust manifold. It directs the exhaust gases through the intake when the car is cold. You really don't need it if the car has an electric choke or is driven only in the summer. You can do a search of the website to get a better understanding of the heat riser.
I got an eddelbrock 1406 with the electric choke. So to block the heads i would also have to mess with the heat riser? so in theory it would be easier to just tap the broke choke and put a bolt in it.
I had a '61 Cadillac with a 390 that had a vacuum release parking brake. If yours has that feature (I own a '64 so I don't know about the '63s) maybe the hose came loose when you were rebuilding the dash.
Also, I had a similar vacuum problem with my '61 390. I know the '63 390 is a total re-design 'one year only' model but I am sure Cadillac didn't completely change everything. I took the intake manifold off to find a vacuum plug/port on the underside of the manifold was completely missing or disintegrated. I have no idea what it ever went to or controlled but I tapped it, plugged it and drove the car happily ever after.
Lastly, there is a vacuum port on the front of your bakelite carburetor base gasket that often becomes broken or cracked and leads to the problems you describe above. You definitely have a vacuum leak of some nature by the sounds of it, spray some starter fluid around all the carb base with the car running to see if idle increases when you spray over a certain area. If it does, you have found your leak. Good luck!
Kris I don't believe you need the shim or spacer with the eldebrock carb. If you have the electric choke I would really consider removing the heat riser from your exhaust and blocking the passages at the head and intake gasket. I believe Russ sells the spacer to replace the heat riser with. Just get a cheap set of intake gaskets from rock auto and make your own steel shims to block off the passage. You have to pull the intake to repair the choke tube or tap it to block off with bolts anyway so the shims is easier.
You need all the same gaskets for the Edelbrock that came stock with the Carter carb ( a regular gasket and metal gasket under the carb )
You need the black spacer under the gaskets ( a regular gasket under thst )
You will have --two places --to connect the PVC hose to now
You need to block the lower of the two off
You can wire the heat riser open to stop it from working
If blocking the heat passage at the head i would block both the top and bottom of the choke tube on the intake as it is off already
The spacers are Very Necessary for the car to run correctly
It will not run right without them installed
Ok, I dont want to block the head passage, bc I dont want to mess with the heat riser, but i do plan on blocking the choke tube and and the passages under the carb. Looks like i need to get the metal shim, I have the black spacer. How would one go about wiring the heat riser open?
Jason —has a video on here that shows how the heat riser works
when you see that —just use some wire to keep it open all the time - -that simple ( a very old hot rod trick )
only if you close the heat passage at the head
do pull the carb off the intake and clean out the passage under the carb if you —do not —seal the heat passage at the head
if dirty it will improve your start up with a smoother idle especially in colder weather
i have kept my intake stock regarding the heat passages and I do have an Edelbrock 1406 carb with the electric choke
my feeling is why mess with an engine that performs so well with its stock design
i did keep this car forever because I enjoy the way it performs in its stock form— myself