Ok.  Out today,  rear brakes got very hot, again.  1st time in aweek.  Almost like they are resetting back.  Anyway decided to fix the axle leak .  

Well, took off hub, and undid bolts behind brake assembly,  didnt even need axle puller,  a good hard yank, it cam out.  First thing i noticed ,there was a torn gasket looking piece that seems to sit behind the brakes shoe assembly and goes between the brake shoe assembly and the hub that the assebly attaches to.  It was damged.

I got the axle part out,  bearing seemed smooth turning.  O ring was intact but scuffed.  

Pictures attached of parts w notes.

So.  According to u tube, this type assembly requires the bearing and seal be cut off w grinder.   

Is that correct, or do i need to rent a specific tool for this.

Secondly, i dnt remeber seeing that gasket that fits behind the brake shoe assembly,  only one i see in book is the paper one.   Is there another one and what would it be called? 

Any help here forward would be appreciated imensely  

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Addl photos   one is effort showing doen the axle housing towards gears

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ok, i went back and read the book again,  i see a flange gasket and a cover gasket,, i have 2 gaskets, they are like a thin piece of paper,, that flange gasket looks thicker,,,are they the same, or are they two separate gaskets with two different materials??  its the flange gasket in the picture that is damaged on the pull out of the axle..it feels like a thin metal..

so the split flange gasket could be the source of the leak??  

yes,, the bearing spins freely so , i guess i will do that, sure  lot easier,,

the book did say to always replace the o ring,   i am guessing that i can find that at a local parts store,, would that be likely correct??

one last thing, can the brakes reset from where you set them,  or what could cause them to stick,,i know they were put in properly and have adjusted them where they didnt grab for about 2 weeks,, i dont know which way to go on them either.

UPDATE,

Got the two gaskets changed out, cleaned things up a bit.  used a thin layer of TRV as well as the gasket, so far, things seem to be holding up,, havent had the brake lock up, nor has the rim gotten scorching hot,  i test both sides just by touch, and they feel about same;

also, got the other door opened up, to replace the paper, used a contractor grade plastic bag cut to fit.  i did notice however when trying to pull that vent door handle it wouldnt come out like it wa supposed to,  so i checked it out on the one already off and it turns out, the tool i got at oreilly, was not wide enough at the slot so it would nt slide over, that is why it wouldnt take the first door handle off.  so i got some metal shears and cut the opening out of the tool a bit wider and it worked, and the door handle came off,, much easier deal than the first handle,,  anyway, door insides have been replaced, inside of door has been wire brushed down and painted with rust proof paint, plastic replaced,, hopefully no wet bottom door panels..  

havent figured out the stalling thing yet, but it hasn't done it in last few outings.. so we shall see,

thanks for all the help.

Sincerley

Kim

I just did the rear end on one of my 63CDV. If you'd like I can send you part numbers of gaskets, bearings etc because I have the second 'set' ready to be installed in my other 63CDV

Mack

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Wow. You hv the whole thing out.  Yes please do send me any part numbers you have.  I figure the othe one will hv to be done at some point. So far, it seems the gaskets were culprit as it hasnt started leaking again

Thanks

Mack, I would sure like that list as well. Save it for future use for the Cadillac population.

Mack, the restored rear looks great!  Please share the part numbers.  It'll help us all.  BTW,  I assume those are disc brake brackets on the flange.  What set up are you running?

Ok guys so here's the list of parts to rebuild the rear end.

1- flange Fel-pro 13365 (I used 2 on each side; one on axle housing and one on the cover)

2- yoke gasket (easy to find on eBay)

3- yoke oil seal (SKF 18922)

4- rear wheel bearings (SKF RW-509FR)

5- gear oil 80W-90 (5 pints !!)

It's fairly easy job! Cost of parts around $250 plus the cost of having the bearings pressed on at the machineshop!

Good luck and enjoy :)

Mack

ps- I switched to ABS Power Brakes, works Just fine.

will get into my other 63CDV once the spring comes! :)

Where did you find the copper crush washers for the yoke studs?

Ive replaced those copper washers with regular steel ones! image.jpeg

I've replaced everything on it, including the bushings in control arms, bushings on the cool spring, cleaned and painted.

Mack, what is the part # to the large O ring that goes around the bearing?

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