Well, got it all together,, Jason, i was looking in the wrong chapter in the manual on the starter,, got that figured out. everything hooked back up
Got it put back together, started up, and oil light turned off.. putting a hole in the gasket that the oil sump filter really helped out on that..
I only ran it for ab out 15 minutes. pulled out of my friends garage, and rode down the street,,
i noticed a knock or something tha wasnt there to start with, I think its a leak at that driver side exhaust connection. My reason for that is, when i pulled off the exhaust, the nut didnt come off, the hole screw came out of the block,, the nut was pretty much heat soldered on bolt, So i dont think i was able to put the 33 pounds of torque on the connection as i was afraid of stripping out the threads on the block,, so i got it as tight as i felt comfortable cranking down on it, but it didn't hit the 33 lbs.
Can i get replacement screws at the part store for that??
What did i learn from all this,, hmmm,, really nice to have full car lift.
lots to look at inside the engine, but since i didnt have to touch anything there, no problems.
the guy at arizona parts in arizona, (the guy there was quite helpful) told me to just soak the gasket until ready, i didn't know why, but did it for the second installation of the upper seal.. it went in very nicely with no friction until the last say 3/4 inch. i found if i pushed the tail in, toward the shaft and pushed it would go on in. No rubber came off the end as it did on the first installation so i assume it was flush on all edges and no problems..
i found out that to turn the crankshaft with plugs out,, put the big torque bar on the nut on the alternator, squeeze the belt, and turn,, crank shaft turnedmoved with no problem,, so I learned a new trick there...
i cant say this was not easy, maybe due to my lack of experience, and fear of breaking something,, but, after about 2 weeks, i got it in.. the lift really made it easier,,
i havent noticed a leak yet, but it was a very short drive and warm up..will see tomorrow how it comes out.
It cost me three rear main seals.. first one i ruined, second one fit, and the third one was a back up if the second one went bad. so thats about 120. (40 a piece for best gaskets from Arizona vintage parts..
oil pan gaskets,, first one i had to remove because of my oil sump mistake and had to do again,, 22.0 a piece x 2 (44.00)
exhaust gaskets i think the was about 20,0..
brake cleaner, assembly grease, miscellaneous stuff about 50.00, so the out of pocket parts cost was probably 230 to 250.00.
shop wanted 550 in labor,, i know if i used there labor rate, it was a 3000.00 labor repair,, but given the learning, the advice from everyone, i came out way better,, i will know for sure how it held tomorrow. at least i know how to do it if i have to do it again,, God forbid...
again, thanks for all the help and patience...
Is the valve cover leaking, or the oil pressure sending unit?
The motor spins clockwise, so as it comes out of the main seal, it would tend to be pushed to the starter side as it hits the spinning flywheel. I don't see a reason it would leak so much if the seal went in undamaged. I don't remember if you posted an image, but is there a chance you installed one of the two halves backwards? Sometimes when something is fighting you the way that this was, you can forget the simplest things. If one of the lips is facing out, oil would blow right by it under any pressure, and hold just fine at idle when case pressure is low.
You have to evaluate your oil loss based on the amount of time you are running the car —and then the oil loss you see based on the change you are seeing on your oil dip stick during that time
Monitor the oil level before and after running the engine is the best gauge of your oil loss which you need to establish
Seeing the oil leaking under the car can be very misleading as a little looks like a lot —always
Basic stuff —but important to prevent any future internal engine damage from a lack of oil is a must
If needed —hope replacing the rear seal the third time solves the problem and we all learn from your own quest
I am sure our entire community is very interested in getting the rear seal leak right as many may be having this issue to deal with at some time in the future
You are looking for oil between the back of the engine block and the back of the flywheel not on the front of the flywheel
The front of the flywheel SB cleanish
Do your best to keep you speeds on the low side and short rides then checking —is better than high speed for longer periods of time
I forget, but it can only go one way, which is the way that it fits the notch in the pan gasket.
follow up question... did you use a little bit of RTV where the pan side gasket meets this seal?
Ues. I put it on bootom and on top of this rubbersea . Dnr kno if i put it on outer rim. Wul ln future today
This is correct. Lip of seal points toward the front ... just as indicated in your shop manual.
Yes, that seal is correct and not the cause of your leak from what I can see. Can you take a pic of the other half.
See how much faster you're moving now? gaining valuable experience here.