Well, got it all together,, Jason, i was looking in the wrong chapter in the manual on the starter,, got that figured out.  everything hooked back up

Got it put back together, started up, and oil light turned off.. putting a hole in the gasket that the oil sump filter really helped out on that..

I only ran it for ab out 15 minutes. pulled out of my friends garage, and rode down the street,,

i noticed a knock or something tha wasnt there to start with,  I think its a leak at that driver side exhaust connection.  My reason for that is, when i pulled off the exhaust, the nut didnt come off, the hole screw came out of the block,, the nut was pretty much heat soldered on bolt,  So i dont think i was able to put the 33 pounds of torque on the connection as i was afraid of stripping out the threads on the block,,   so i got it as tight as i felt comfortable cranking down on it, but it didn't hit the 33 lbs.  

Can i get replacement screws at the part store for that??

What did i learn from all this,, hmmm,, really nice to have full car lift.  

lots to look at inside the engine, but since i didnt have to touch anything there, no problems.  

the guy at arizona parts in arizona, (the guy there was quite helpful)   told me to just soak the gasket until ready, i didn't know why, but did it for the second installation of the upper seal.. it went in very nicely with no friction until the last say 3/4 inch.  i found if i pushed the tail in, toward the shaft and pushed it would go on in.  No rubber came off the end as it did on the first installation so i assume it was flush on all edges and no problems.. 

i found out that to turn the crankshaft with plugs out,, put the big torque bar on the nut on the alternator, squeeze the belt, and turn,, crank shaft turnedmoved with no problem,, so I learned a new trick there...

i cant  say this was not easy, maybe due to my lack of experience, and fear of breaking something,, but, after about 2 weeks, i got it in.. the lift really made it easier,,

i havent noticed a leak yet, but it was a very short drive and warm up..will see tomorrow how it comes out.

It cost me three rear main seals.. first one i ruined, second one fit, and the third one was a back up if the second one went bad.  so thats about 120.   (40 a piece for best gaskets from Arizona vintage parts..

oil pan gaskets,, first one i had to remove because of my oil sump mistake and had to do again,, 22.0 a piece x 2   (44.00)

exhaust gaskets  i think the was about 20,0..   

brake cleaner, assembly grease, miscellaneous stuff about 50.00, so the out of pocket parts cost was probably 230 to 250.00.

 shop wanted 550 in labor,, i know if i used there labor rate, it was a 3000.00  labor repair,, but given the learning, the advice from everyone, i came out way better,, i will know for sure how it held tomorrow.  at least i know how to do it if i have to do it again,, God forbid...

again, thanks for all the help and patience...

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An oil pan leak would show at the back of the spinning fly wheel 

Back of flywheel would be covered in oil 

Number one in the picture 

Enjoy 

Here is a repeat of some info I sent via email:
See pictures at bottom for reference:

OK. So at rear of oil pan area you have from top to bottom: -> A. a rear main bearing cap.
-> What goes beneath it? –> B. the oil pan gasket.
-> What is beneath that? –> C. the metal edge of the vertical transmission inspection pan. 

So what happens if B: leak? –> the oil is going to go to the rear and behind the vertical inspection pan and leak out the bottom of the lower inspection pan. (see yellow arrows in 2nd picture)

So..what can you do to get a better view of what is going on? Remove both inspection pans, clean everything very good, run the engine to the point it would leak or starts leaking and pop under and inspect. If you can leave it running then better.  Oil at that point should be seen coming out of the rear oil pan gasket, hitting the drive plate and splattering everywhere at that point since the inspect pans are not there to hold the oil back and way from the engine.
That would be my suggestion at this point.
 
If the oil pan is compromised on the rear edge where the rear gasket is seals it against the block it should be addressed anyway and have a nice oil pan for you to take care of that problem.
 
Torus Vertical Inspection Pan:
 
Torus Vertical Inspection pan installed, lower pan removed, showing torus and drain plug:
Back of engine showing Hydra-Matic Driveplate for reference:

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