Per Tony,  i am starting a new thread on my adventures with this rear main leak,

i posted a video on a 390 engine of a rear main seal replacement but the engine was out of the car,, gave some insight as to sealing and materials etc.

One of my neighbors has a hoist,(yeah!) and has allowed me to use it,, makes it a lot easier than rolling around on the asphalt in the street and is enough higher that its not too confining under there.  I did have to pay attention to the lift points though as it seems you cant just put those lift arms wherever you want..

As of this evening, I have taken the exhaust loose, the steering loose, and the starter is out,, took about 4 hours to do that.  I guess there is nothing earthshaking to report on any of this.  Tomorrow, I will take the pan off and proceed from there.

To be clear before proceeding.

the 63 manual says to insert the bearings in there slots, do not pull off wax coating as that will aid in insertion.  I do not see any wax on my gasket, so my guess they had it on the old ones.,, 

Now, the question here is,, do i add a touch of oil or something to aid in that insertion process,, the manual does not suggest it, as i describe above, or, just insert dry, as is..

it does say apply rubber cement to cap and block mating surfaces, and gasket ends, but that is the only reference in the 63 manual regarding lubricaitng the seal for installation,,  so is that correct?? insert dry??

the you tube video says to use lubridation after insertion so it wont be dry on start up, so i plan to do that as well.

i will try to take a few photographs of things once i get the pan off,  i m sure most have seen the underside, but its my first venture in there and post them for reference.

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video   https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fgYWM39IcWs&t=9s

it should be noted that upon further research in to caddy daddy, this is a video on a 1959 biarittz 390,, not the 63 as i first thought,,,,i dont know if this matters, but that is a fact i wanted to convey

Kim

Lift sounds great  and nice neighbor to help out if needed ( a car guy ! ) 

Using a new seal design so no wax  on the new seal 

I think white lithium grease in the seals groves  and all over the seal ( top and sides ) will help to snake the seal behind the crank with the tool the manual says to  be making ( not sure how that tool is used ? ) 

Not sure the tool can be used with the crank in the car ?

You will be using the anaerobic sealant at the joints (where the rubber cement was used in the manual ) for the new seal 

Clean any grease on the seal joints with 91 % alcohol to remove any lube in that location before you apply the recommended sealant to the joints ( drying time is important ) 

You need those joints oil and grease free of any grease when applying the sealant 

I would use a spay lithium grease to be sure all parts of the new seal have a lube on them ( every side ) 

The seal it’s sides  and that crank bearing ( in the cap ) that contact the metal on the crank needs lube for the start up 

I can see this step being very important —and if skipped cause a leaking issue as the seal that could be a problem from start up friction that damages the seal 

I see no mention of lubing the seal in the manual but that might be what the old wax on the seal was for in those years 

Most important is to be very careful —-not to distort —the part of the seal that contacts the metal part of the crankshaft ( mentioned  over many times in the manual ) 

Be sure the four ends of the seal are flush with there end of the bearing the seal seats in 

I believe any grease in the bearing groves should not be an issue and SB an aid to get the seal in place and seated 

Not sure what —removing the old seal and being sure the bearing groves are very clean first  entailes

As no sealant SB used  on any seal there it might just slip out but cannot be sure what was done in that location in the past rebuild 

Hope all goes well on your part  as this was researched very well prior to the repair 

Looking very forward to solving this problem for many that have this issue — once and for all ! 
Keep us posted 

Enjoy 

Because the crank is in the car I would lube the entire seal all over ( a light coating of grease )  before it goes into the bearing groves as you —may not be able— to lube those areas once the seal is seated in the bearing groves 

A spray lithium grease might be helpful to get into tight spots just before putting the crank bearing cap back on ——-again keeping the joining surfaces grease and oil free with alcohol 

That should help guide the seal into place more easily as well 

Looks like a very good plan to me 

Enjoy 

The year of the engine in the video is not an issue

Enjoy 

This thread is an extension of  Kim’s thread titled —Engine Leaks 2.0 —which addresses some of our Cadillac drive train fluid leaks and —-starts —-the discussion on  repairing a leaking rear engine seal on a 390 or 429 engine block 

The rear engine seal repair info will be continued on this post as the repair unfolds 

This subject has been an issue for many who own our year Cadillacs and we are working on a solution 

Enjoy 

Can an impact wrench b used to REMOVE the bearing bolts

At 95 lbs torque, they r in pretty good

Never mind on the torque wrench.  Cheater pipe got it..

I have a larger concern.  Got the bearing out and notice it had a cut in it. Like someone out a chop saw through it.  Photo attached.

Please advise

Attachments:

Another picture frpm inside the cap

Attachments:

If I remember correctly, the slot in bearing cap is normal. That is one messed up seal though. Replacing it should greatly improve your oil leak situation.

Are those slices on the inner side normal as well.  It really doesook like someone tried to slice it w a chop saw

Not sure what sliced the rubber seal. When I replaced my seal several years ago, it did not have slices in it. The rubber was just hardened. I tried to find pics from then but can't. I seem to remember the slot in the bearing cap but can't say if your is normal or not. That cut does look rough in the last pic

Kurt, the slice is in the metal rib, not the seal

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