Per Tony,  i am starting a new thread on my adventures with this rear main leak,

i posted a video on a 390 engine of a rear main seal replacement but the engine was out of the car,, gave some insight as to sealing and materials etc.

One of my neighbors has a hoist,(yeah!) and has allowed me to use it,, makes it a lot easier than rolling around on the asphalt in the street and is enough higher that its not too confining under there.  I did have to pay attention to the lift points though as it seems you cant just put those lift arms wherever you want..

As of this evening, I have taken the exhaust loose, the steering loose, and the starter is out,, took about 4 hours to do that.  I guess there is nothing earthshaking to report on any of this.  Tomorrow, I will take the pan off and proceed from there.

To be clear before proceeding.

the 63 manual says to insert the bearings in there slots, do not pull off wax coating as that will aid in insertion.  I do not see any wax on my gasket, so my guess they had it on the old ones.,, 

Now, the question here is,, do i add a touch of oil or something to aid in that insertion process,, the manual does not suggest it, as i describe above, or, just insert dry, as is..

it does say apply rubber cement to cap and block mating surfaces, and gasket ends, but that is the only reference in the 63 manual regarding lubricaitng the seal for installation,,  so is that correct?? insert dry??

the you tube video says to use lubridation after insertion so it wont be dry on start up, so i plan to do that as well.

i will try to take a few photographs of things once i get the pan off,  i m sure most have seen the underside, but its my first venture in there and post them for reference.

Views: 726

Reply to This

Replies to This Discussion

Oh OK. I saw some fibers in the pic & assumed that was a sliced rubber seal. If the bearing cap metal is that damaged, what does the crank look like?

Appears and feels smooth

I am not at all understanding your photos myself 

I see no groves for the seal to be sitting in on that bearing housing and the end bearing cap in the video was a much wider one than the one you removed 

Pretty sure you found your leak source 

Can you remove the old seal and see if your new one looks like it will work on that end cap ?

Interested in weather the seal has a sealer holding it on or is it sealer free 

By examining the other side of where that bearing cap came off try to determine what  might have put that slice in the bearing seal 

That can not be a good thing 


I originally thought the cuts were in the rubber.
now it looks like they are in metal.

that will never seal up, but if you replace it, you have to get it align bored.
this is a pickle 

Ok. Well at one level, thats good, at second level. Not good.  May just try to find bearing, and do now while up.  Are they a hard item to find?

Tony, all.  Addl pictures.   There are 4 watvappear to be slices in the first rib touchs the inside of the seal.  The seal will fit.  The seal was very hard to pull out of cap.  I dread doing topside as its gonna hv to be pounded out and inam very concerned acout dmg to flat side of upper cap getting nicked due to the tightness of the seal to the channel it is in. There was maybe a hit of sealant on the cap connections, 

Jason and Russ 

We could use you advice on this find 


This looks worse the more I look at it 
I need to see more of it
It looks to me as though this cap has been repaired quite badly on the left side of the image.  
It may have cracked and been welded back together (or brazed or *gasp* epoxied), and that would explain the hack job with the whiz wheel that we see.  
You can change the seal and hope for the best, since the car was running, or remove the engine, strip it down and give it to a machine shop or replace the block.
You cannot simply replace the bearing cap unless you take it to a machine shop, so that they can align bore the replacement cap with a honing mandrel.  The caps aren't uniform from block to block, they need to be precisely fitted to the block they are installed in.  If you replace the cap without the machine work, you stand a very good chance of destroying the crank journal. (close to 100% chance)


here are the cleaned up photos that you pointed out.. 


Here are cleaned up photos that u requested



  • Add Photos
  • View All


Is this possible or total BS?

Started by Kim K Kaiser in 1963/64 Cadillac Specific Discussion. Last reply by Tony and Ginny 429 6 hours ago. 5 Replies

After changing tie rods, i tokk car into wheel n allignment shop. He said no problem.  He calls back about 45 minutes later and said they couldnt get between the tire and cowl, the guys head was too…Continue

Vacuum / Parking Brake / NSS Question

Started by Karl Schwarz in 1963/64 Cadillac Specific Discussion. Last reply by Karl Schwarz 7 hours ago. 2 Replies

I bought a 1963 Series 62 Convertible in July.It makes a hissing sound when in neutral, and sometimes when in drive (when the shift is more to the left that the right. I assume this related to a NSS…Continue

Tail pipe black stuff!

Started by Lambert Ross in 1963/64 Cadillac Specific Discussion. Last reply by Lambert Ross yesterday. 10 Replies

any ideas how to clear the ugly black stuff shooting out from my tailpipe? After a long layover, it really messes up the garage floor. I assume its carbon but am not sure how best to react to it.…Continue

Blog Posts

still need a driveshaft

Posted by wayne weaver on November 26, 2019 at 11:53am 0 Comments

well thank you UPS for losing the driveshaft that Russ Austin shipped me. 

however i still need a rear driveshaft section for my 63. mine has a vibration due to the bushing inside of it. its a shame because the ball and sockets in the cardian joints are perfect but it has a woble on the balancing machine. so .  still need the rear section. anyone have a good one ? is there driveshaft alternatives to use ? i am really considering an LS swap and since im fighting the driveshaft search…


63 guidematic issues

Posted by maurice lapoiinte on November 24, 2019 at 3:10pm 0 Comments

 So my 63 guide matic headlamps stay on low beam all the time. I have so far bypassed the system and everything works normal. I have been thru the trouble shooting in the manual but this is where the confusion begins.on my car when the power relay is powered I have low beam and when its not powered I have highbeam, this appears to be opposite what the diagnosis says should be correct.The wiring is all original and no wires have been mixed up.has anyone ever unplugged the 2 wire connector…


Another advantage of the Pertronix III

Posted by Doug Scarrow on November 23, 2019 at 11:12am 1 Comment

   Having tried both the II and III I can say the multispark feature of the III offers a smoother idle . It is also easier to install .Does not require removal of the distributor

Stuck at two red (dash) lights!

Posted by Jeff Kinzler on November 3, 2019 at 10:00pm 9 Comments

I hope someone can help solve these two electrical problems that appeared one after the other.

By way of background: The car, a '64 Eldorado has very limited use. It was at a restoration shop for 15 months until last January-  that supposedly did a bunch of wiring repairs including rebuilding the gas gauge that still hasn't worked properly, and the clock that hasn't worked, and re-soldering the broken wires in the drive door. All window and seat controls appear to be…




  • Add Videos
  • View All

© 2019   Created by Jason Edge.   Powered by

Badges  |  Report an Issue  |  Terms of Service