while out for a cruise and to a car show, i was heading home, car started sputtering,, would go, then no feel ing of gas, would go a while, then sputter .  i started thinking of quickest way home with out to many stops,  got about 6 blocks and it died.   

it sounded or felt like a car does when you run out of gas, but, that is not possible as I just put gas in it about 2 hours earlier, so i have half a tank, but that is the feeling,,   sputtering, then go, then sputter some more, then go,, then died,

walked home, going back in the truck see if i can get it started with some fuel in carb and sputter it home,

it is not running hot, no other particular symptom.  

would his be most likely fuel pump or blocked fuel filter,, ??

anyway, thought on the above while i go and try to get er home.. I'm just glad i did nt suffer embarrassment of it croaking at the car show as i drove through, but then again,, some one there may have known what it was,, oh well,, 

old cars i guess

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Have you had --a fuel fiter of some kind in front of your carb --always to protect it from debris ?
These old gas tanks can have some stuff in them --you need a filter to be collecting that stuff on a regular basis
I check my fuel filter every 6mo to see how it looks
My clear filter is 3/4 full at idle when new so i use that as a reference point
They can be deceiving as debri collects on the bottom which can be hard to see until it is removed and inspected
Do all you can to have your --tune up specs on point -and change the ignition wires before you do the carb rebuild --ok


will do,, off to store to get some wires,, did some reading on them,, mine may not be able to properly handle the pertonix ignition.. so, i will do tat first,, thanks

fuel filter is new, old glass bowl, so i can see pretty good, so far, ok


i thought you rear bearing was smooth when tested by yourself 

why are you replacing it if it  tested good ??


I didnt, just tge gaskets on the axle

OK --good
Where did you get the the large rubber O ring gasket that goes around the rear wheel bearing ?


Took old one to hydraukic shop they had all kinds of sizesl

Interesting thought on where to aquire the part


ok,, todays events included,

1  replaced spark plug wires,, that was real fun!! and not quite sure they are real good, but car did fire up and no knocking or anything,,    now, should i re check timing now that i have new wires.??

2, FORREST GUMP moment,  while fooling with the SP wire replacement, i was fitting the things on the distributor, and i noticed the cap loose,, i thought to myself,, that couldnt be right, so i checked those lock down screws, and sure enough, one of them was not locked down!!  what a dum azz.

so, i locked it down, continued with my rewiring, and got it all hooked up and car started fine, took for long ride, mostly at 55 to 65,, NO SHAKING!!!!  just my un solicited opinion, the other day, when i had the drums off, I put some axle grease on the bump outs on the brake backer where the shoes sit and move over, saw it on one of the videos on changing brake shoes, and i knew i had not done that.. so i thought what the heck.. plus, i think my rear brakes are a bit loose, and i feel like i may have had them too tight, and they stuck on me periodically,, thus the extreme heat and brake smell on one wheel.  just a guess though, but it didnt do it today,, 

the car didnt seem to sputter at all after the wire change and the forrest gump moment with the distributor,,, ( pertonix ignition)   Does anyone think that could have caused that sputter because i didnt get any indication of it today, and the car does seem peppier, or maybe wishful thinking, but i know it didnt sputter or the little low level sputters that i was feeling.

anyway, i hope that was it, any further thoughts would be appreciated.

Only do the timing if you think you may have set it last time with the cap loose
I think you may have just fixed the car --finding the dist cap loose on one side
I do think the sputter could have been caused by the loose cap
Just do some driving and keep a eye the brakes
you should be rolling slightly foward from a complete stop - after a bit of ride to warm the brakes if the brakes and cars idle are correct


Any chance we got to the bottom of your --headache and the car is running good ??


Be very carefull using grease on a limited basis around the brake shoes
You do not want grease to get on good brake shoes
The two do not mix well


Yes, i applied the grease carefully to avoid the shoes.

Believe me,  no one wants this car running good more than I do.  I know the forum cringes when they see my name pop up with a problem.  

I am still going to have that old time mechanic ride with me next week, sort of a post work check ride, make sure things are running and the car is feeling like these cars should on the road.  

Car does feel better after the distributor tie down, and the wire change.  I still intend to empty tank, change out he rubber lines, they do look bad, and, notice a little leakage staining at the carb gaskets and the top gasket is a bit gummy,  so if a couple of  full rain days come up, or, if i get back to Montana and i still havent rebult carburetor,, i know we will have plenty of cold snowy days in late april and may, so i will do then.

Again, thanks so much for everyones help, Attaching a photo so you know that this is not a junker with no hope, and it actually looks very very nice.  So again,  thanks so much, I'm getting there and learning..



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