while out for a cruise and to a car show, i was heading home, car started sputtering,, would go, then no feel ing of gas, would go a while, then sputter .  i started thinking of quickest way home with out to many stops,  got about 6 blocks and it died.   

it sounded or felt like a car does when you run out of gas, but, that is not possible as I just put gas in it about 2 hours earlier, so i have half a tank, but that is the feeling,,   sputtering, then go, then sputter some more, then go,, then died,

walked home, going back in the truck see if i can get it started with some fuel in carb and sputter it home,

it is not running hot, no other particular symptom.  

would his be most likely fuel pump or blocked fuel filter,, ??

anyway, thought on the above while i go and try to get er home.. I'm just glad i did nt suffer embarrassment of it croaking at the car show as i drove through, but then again,, some one there may have known what it was,, oh well,, 

old cars i guess

Views: 646

Reply to This

Replies to This Discussion

Save your money and get a working carb on that engine --all better

I have tried to explain you carb has been leaking fuel into your engine ---since the problem with the engine flooding when on a incline a good while back --as i see it
That should not happen --even on an incline
That suports my theory that the carb is leaking fuel into the intake now and ocassionaly flooding the intake causing the sputtering to be happening
The plugs are having a problem burning off the excessive fuel build up in the intake and are stumbling through a rich mixtire that happens intermittently

Enjoy

Tony, the problem back then, had nothing to do with the carb and all to do with gravity.

The car was on such a steep incline, with the front in a dip and on a cock-eyed angle with a full load of fuel on board, and it simply siphoned itself to the lowest point with an opening. It just happened to be the carb, which is why, it put fuel in the cylinders, the oil pan and literally ran out the top of the carb where the accelerator pump plunger is.

It does absolutely 3/4 of 5/8 of sweet F. A. to confirm your theory.

A good mechanic @ $75.00 per hour, to me at least, would seem good value to nail down what's happening.

Being hands on, able to see, hear, drive the car and get a feel for what's happening is going to solve the problem way faster than this thread is.

The needles and seats in the carbs fuel bowls is a basic on - off valve that is controlled by a float that rises as the fuel comes into the fuel bowl and at the right fuel height closes off the fuel flow to that bowl
When the fuel is consumed the float drops to the bottom to let fuel into the fuel bowl
That is how it should work
When the N&S are worn they no longer shut the gas flow off completely as they should be
That allows more fuel to fill the fuel bowl than should be there and causes the gas to overflow over the walls of the fuel bowl into the intake manifold --which should not be able to happening
Now you have to much fuel in your intake manifold that has to be burned off
The carb is not suppling the proper ratio of fuel to the intake

Enjoy

Kim
At 75 dollars an hour --( and possibly being ripped off in addition ) you are much better with my experience and advice in the long run -
Just work thru one issue at a time just as you have been until there are none for a while and the car is humming

Enjoy

Im getting there, i parked car, did something else for a while, went back out, and checked all my connections again after the cap replacement,  seems one wire to the distributor was not locked solidly all the way down,, i put it down, checked all the rest, and was off again, no problems,  car seemed to run just fine for about 40 miles,, parked it, went out again, no problems,, parked it, back again for just short errands around town, again, no problem, soooo, I'm thinking/hoping that that spark plug wire not being full locked down may have settled it after the cap change, 

will know tomorrow when i take it back out for rounds and a quick trip out of town for a bout 30 miles out, an see if it sputters...

i am going to need to find a you tube video that shows the way a carb takes in fuel, puts it where it needs to go and where it goes from there,   I understand your explanation, but need some visual backup to fortify the thought.  

My use of the mechanic at this time is to take care out, ride, and feel.   I have been driving diesels for 20 plus years now and other than some occasional modern rentals, have nt been in gas cars, especially a 50+ year of car.  I will ask him questions, and hope to have him go under the hood and i can point out some things that will help me with understanding how things work,  i will pay him for his ride, but i intend on utilizing your experience and everyones as best i can as much as can be conveyed over the net..   i also know that to keep this car, i have to be able to work on it myself, and not carry it in for repairs.. i just need a little show and tell to get me over some of the bumps.

Kim
No need to keep setting the timing
It will stay the same unless you change it with the pertronics ignition system
Set it once and forget it --ok
No need to do any additional work not needed

Enjoy

If the solution to this problem --is a carb rebuild --i am sticking with -my opinion -that this carb is leaking fuel both now and in the past causing the problems it has
Lets see what his mechanic comes up with regarding taking Kims car for a ride
No question -to hear the sputter in person could make the difference in solving the sputter problem
It is always the intermittent problem that are the most difficult to trouble shoot
We are working on it and will get it repaired !

Enjoy

i took the car out again this morning, a ride to the lake, bout 30 miles up , 30 back, not one hiccup,  mostly highway cruising driving.  i am guessing, or hoping, that for now, fully seating that wire to the distributor cap may have been the reason for the acting up after the cap/rotor change.   it really did seem to ride very nicely,  

Im sure the carb rebuild is in my near future,  will continue to take out and use, see if the current situation maintains the status quo of doing ok for now..  will keep informed of any re occurrences.

 Kim, I sure hope you got it; this is very good news. Much admire your determination and patience with your ride. Much good luck to you!  

Looks good so far -for now - very very glad for you !
Lets see what happens with some time on the car
The cap - could have been the problem - it is the first thing to do after new point ( or after installing a Pertronics )
I did think it was a new cap so i overlooked that
Best to do the ignition replacement upgrades together so all is fresh and parts are wearing together until the next required maintenance needs to be done
One of the first place i go if having ignition problems --are the points rotor and cap
Let the carb be --if the car is running good now
All will be great unless ---you put so many miles on the engine trying ---to trouble shoot your cars problems --we wear the engine out !!---PMSL !!!!!!!
Only kidding !!

Enjoy

RSS

Photos

  • Add Photos
  • View All

Forum

wanted balast tube for guide eye amp

Started by maurice lapoiinte in General Discussion. Last reply by Russ Austin 14 minutes ago. 1 Reply

I am looking for a vaccum tube for my guide eye amp. tube #5947343 it call the ballast tube, its the shorter one of the 2 and only has a filament in it. fits 59-66 cadillacs with the guidematic…Continue

Current 1963/64 Cadillac Listings on eBay

Started by Jason Edge in For Sale. Last reply by Jason Edge 4 hours ago. 0 Replies

To see all 1963/64 Cadillacs Listed on eBay in the USA…Continue

Tags: ebay

Sanders shorty headers for the 63-64

Started by Tony and Ginny 429 in 1963/64 Cadillac Specific Discussion. Last reply by Tony and Ginny 429 17 hours ago. 3 Replies

Just saw my first set of Sanders shorty headers for 64-66 429 engines at Classic Performance Parts Continue

Sanders shorty headers for the 63-64

Started by Tony and Ginny 429 in 1963/64 Cadillac Specific Discussion 22 hours ago. 0 Replies

Just saw my first set of Sanders shorty headers for 64-66 429 engines at Classic Performance Parts Continue

Blog Posts

still need a driveshaft

Posted by wayne weaver on November 26, 2019 at 11:53am 0 Comments

well thank you UPS for losing the driveshaft that Russ Austin shipped me. 

however i still need a rear driveshaft section for my 63. mine has a vibration due to the bushing inside of it. its a shame because the ball and sockets in the cardian joints are perfect but it has a woble on the balancing machine. so .  still need the rear section. anyone have a good one ? is there driveshaft alternatives to use ? i am really considering an LS swap and since im fighting the driveshaft search…

Continue

63 guidematic issues

Posted by maurice lapoiinte on November 24, 2019 at 3:10pm 0 Comments

 So my 63 guide matic headlamps stay on low beam all the time. I have so far bypassed the system and everything works normal. I have been thru the trouble shooting in the manual but this is where the confusion begins.on my car when the power relay is powered I have low beam and when its not powered I have highbeam, this appears to be opposite what the diagnosis says should be correct.The wiring is all original and no wires have been mixed up.has anyone ever unplugged the 2 wire connector…

Continue

Another advantage of the Pertronix III

Posted by Doug Scarrow on November 23, 2019 at 11:12am 1 Comment

   Having tried both the II and III I can say the multispark feature of the III offers a smoother idle . It is also easier to install .Does not require removal of the distributor

Stuck at two red (dash) lights!

Posted by Jeff Kinzler on November 3, 2019 at 10:00pm 9 Comments

I hope someone can help solve these two electrical problems that appeared one after the other.

By way of background: The car, a '64 Eldorado has very limited use. It was at a restoration shop for 15 months until last January-  that supposedly did a bunch of wiring repairs including rebuilding the gas gauge that still hasn't worked properly, and the clock that hasn't worked, and re-soldering the broken wires in the drive door. All window and seat controls appear to be…

Continue

Events

Videos

  • Add Videos
  • View All

© 2019   Created by Jason Edge.   Powered by

Badges  |  Report an Issue  |  Terms of Service