while out for a cruise and to a car show, i was heading home, car started sputtering,, would go, then no feel ing of gas, would go a while, then sputter .  i started thinking of quickest way home with out to many stops,  got about 6 blocks and it died.   

it sounded or felt like a car does when you run out of gas, but, that is not possible as I just put gas in it about 2 hours earlier, so i have half a tank, but that is the feeling,,   sputtering, then go, then sputter some more, then go,, then died,

walked home, going back in the truck see if i can get it started with some fuel in carb and sputter it home,

it is not running hot, no other particular symptom.  

would his be most likely fuel pump or blocked fuel filter,, ??

anyway, thought on the above while i go and try to get er home.. I'm just glad i did nt suffer embarrassment of it croaking at the car show as i drove through, but then again,, some one there may have known what it was,, oh well,, 

old cars i guess

Views: 525

Reply to This

Replies to This Discussion

Save your money and get a working carb on that engine --all better

I have tried to explain you carb has been leaking fuel into your engine ---since the problem with the engine flooding when on a incline a good while back --as i see it
That should not happen --even on an incline
That suports my theory that the carb is leaking fuel into the intake now and ocassionaly flooding the intake causing the sputtering to be happening
The plugs are having a problem burning off the excessive fuel build up in the intake and are stumbling through a rich mixtire that happens intermittently

Enjoy

Tony, the problem back then, had nothing to do with the carb and all to do with gravity.

The car was on such a steep incline, with the front in a dip and on a cock-eyed angle with a full load of fuel on board, and it simply siphoned itself to the lowest point with an opening. It just happened to be the carb, which is why, it put fuel in the cylinders, the oil pan and literally ran out the top of the carb where the accelerator pump plunger is.

It does absolutely 3/4 of 5/8 of sweet F. A. to confirm your theory.

A good mechanic @ $75.00 per hour, to me at least, would seem good value to nail down what's happening.

Being hands on, able to see, hear, drive the car and get a feel for what's happening is going to solve the problem way faster than this thread is.

The needles and seats in the carbs fuel bowls is a basic on - off valve that is controlled by a float that rises as the fuel comes into the fuel bowl and at the right fuel height closes off the fuel flow to that bowl
When the fuel is consumed the float drops to the bottom to let fuel into the fuel bowl
That is how it should work
When the N&S are worn they no longer shut the gas flow off completely as they should be
That allows more fuel to fill the fuel bowl than should be there and causes the gas to overflow over the walls of the fuel bowl into the intake manifold --which should not be able to happening
Now you have to much fuel in your intake manifold that has to be burned off
The carb is not suppling the proper ratio of fuel to the intake

Enjoy

Kim
At 75 dollars an hour --( and possibly being ripped off in addition ) you are much better with my experience and advice in the long run -
Just work thru one issue at a time just as you have been until there are none for a while and the car is humming

Enjoy

Im getting there, i parked car, did something else for a while, went back out, and checked all my connections again after the cap replacement,  seems one wire to the distributor was not locked solidly all the way down,, i put it down, checked all the rest, and was off again, no problems,  car seemed to run just fine for about 40 miles,, parked it, went out again, no problems,, parked it, back again for just short errands around town, again, no problem, soooo, I'm thinking/hoping that that spark plug wire not being full locked down may have settled it after the cap change, 

will know tomorrow when i take it back out for rounds and a quick trip out of town for a bout 30 miles out, an see if it sputters...

i am going to need to find a you tube video that shows the way a carb takes in fuel, puts it where it needs to go and where it goes from there,   I understand your explanation, but need some visual backup to fortify the thought.  

My use of the mechanic at this time is to take care out, ride, and feel.   I have been driving diesels for 20 plus years now and other than some occasional modern rentals, have nt been in gas cars, especially a 50+ year of car.  I will ask him questions, and hope to have him go under the hood and i can point out some things that will help me with understanding how things work,  i will pay him for his ride, but i intend on utilizing your experience and everyones as best i can as much as can be conveyed over the net..   i also know that to keep this car, i have to be able to work on it myself, and not carry it in for repairs.. i just need a little show and tell to get me over some of the bumps.

Kim
No need to keep setting the timing
It will stay the same unless you change it with the pertronics ignition system
Set it once and forget it --ok
No need to do any additional work not needed

Enjoy

If the solution to this problem --is a carb rebuild --i am sticking with -my opinion -that this carb is leaking fuel both now and in the past causing the problems it has
Lets see what his mechanic comes up with regarding taking Kims car for a ride
No question -to hear the sputter in person could make the difference in solving the sputter problem
It is always the intermittent problem that are the most difficult to trouble shoot
We are working on it and will get it repaired !

Enjoy

i took the car out again this morning, a ride to the lake, bout 30 miles up , 30 back, not one hiccup,  mostly highway cruising driving.  i am guessing, or hoping, that for now, fully seating that wire to the distributor cap may have been the reason for the acting up after the cap/rotor change.   it really did seem to ride very nicely,  

Im sure the carb rebuild is in my near future,  will continue to take out and use, see if the current situation maintains the status quo of doing ok for now..  will keep informed of any re occurrences.

 Kim, I sure hope you got it; this is very good news. Much admire your determination and patience with your ride. Much good luck to you!  

Looks good so far -for now - very very glad for you !
Lets see what happens with some time on the car
The cap - could have been the problem - it is the first thing to do after new point ( or after installing a Pertronics )
I did think it was a new cap so i overlooked that
Best to do the ignition replacement upgrades together so all is fresh and parts are wearing together until the next required maintenance needs to be done
One of the first place i go if having ignition problems --are the points rotor and cap
Let the carb be --if the car is running good now
All will be great unless ---you put so many miles on the engine trying ---to trouble shoot your cars problems --we wear the engine out !!---PMSL !!!!!!!
Only kidding !!

Enjoy

RSS

Photos

  • Add Photos
  • View All

Forum

jetaway transmission internal pictures.

Started by Darris Loose in 1963/64 Cadillac Specific Discussion. Last reply by Frank Murch 3 hours ago. 9 Replies

Looking for some help on a jetaway transmission. I had to replace the detent spring/roller on my transmission and to do that I had to remove the parking pawl assembly. Well apparently I did not look…Continue

63 radiator replacement?

Started by Dennis Mobley in General Discussion. Last reply by Dennis Mobley 11 hours ago. 9 Replies

I want to get my 63 to cool down better. It is a non ac car w/o a fan housing. It has a flex fan on it but the gauge goes to the middle in just a few miles. It has not over heated. I had the old…Continue

Power windows

Started by Keith Benning in 1963/64 Cadillac Specific Discussion. Last reply by John Himsel 12 hours ago. 11 Replies

Hello all, my 1964 62 series has pwindow problems. In 'emergency' not lock or normal I can put down drivers front and rear windows. In 'normal' on window switch nothing works. All wires going through…Continue

Tags: windows, Power

How do you disassemble the Post (Code G diff)

Started by Frank Murch in 1963/64 Cadillac Specific Discussion. Last reply by Frank Murch 14 hours ago. 3 Replies

I have a limited slip diff and want to strip it from the case and send it out for powder coating.  The axles are out, the brake plates are off, but I have not figured out how to get the guts out of…Continue

Blog Posts

Need correct Muffler for 64 DeVille

Posted by Norman Silverman on June 18, 2018 at 7:57pm 13 Comments

Hello all.

I need to replace the muffler on my 64 and the local shop does not have the correct one.

After looking on the web site's help section, I still don't see a recommended part/manufacturer or suggestion. 

What is the best solution to purchase for a stock, single system with 2 1/2 inch pipes, center in, offset out? 

Thanks.

Norm

64 Power Seat Transmission cleaning-it did the trick

Posted by Norman Silverman on June 16, 2018 at 5:36pm 4 Comments

Hello All.

I thought I'd post a little encouragement for those that might have an inoperative 6 way power seat in their car. The fix is relatively easy, and VERY cheap.

I just purchased an original (not re-painted, nor reupholstered) 64 Sedan De Ville 4 window. When I purchased it the front seat was adjusted forward and tilted down in front; two of the worst positions for me, so I had no choice but to attempt to repair it. 

Pushing the switch in each direction brought…

Continue

Driver side door panel removal

Posted by Anthony Boles on June 16, 2018 at 9:32am 2 Comments

How is the door panel taken off to access the wiring harness 

Driver side door panel removal

Posted by Anthony Boles on June 16, 2018 at 8:16am 0 Comments

How is the door panel taken off to access the wiring harness 

Events

Videos

  • Add Videos
  • View All

© 2018   Created by Jason Edge.   Powered by

Badges  |  Report an Issue  |  Terms of Service