while out for a cruise and to a car show, i was heading home, car started sputtering,, would go, then no feel ing of gas, would go a while, then sputter .  i started thinking of quickest way home with out to many stops,  got about 6 blocks and it died.   

it sounded or felt like a car does when you run out of gas, but, that is not possible as I just put gas in it about 2 hours earlier, so i have half a tank, but that is the feeling,,   sputtering, then go, then sputter some more, then go,, then died,

walked home, going back in the truck see if i can get it started with some fuel in carb and sputter it home,

it is not running hot, no other particular symptom.  

would his be most likely fuel pump or blocked fuel filter,, ??

anyway, thought on the above while i go and try to get er home.. I'm just glad i did nt suffer embarrassment of it croaking at the car show as i drove through, but then again,, some one there may have known what it was,, oh well,, 

old cars i guess

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Great looking car there Kim!  Hopefully that loose cap was the culprit and you can get back to enjoying your car.   Don’t hesitate to post on the forums.  Lots of knowledge to be exchanged here.

Very nice CDV —with a bright future 

love your dog —had one black and  one gray   together for many years myself a few years ago 

nice breed - my black one was - best in puppy show 

I am into Bull terriers these days myself and  mine have outstanding blood lines 

mans best friend - I keep telling my wife —not woman’s best friend ! When she question how excited and loving they get with me and she does all —-to care for them 

life is not always fair 


Your loose distributor cap was the likely cause of the problem. 

When the engine compartment heats up parts expand and can separate but could be close enough to make contact when cold. 

I had same issue with ignition circuit wire harness behind engine after engine rebuild because this shop didn't snap the two halves of the plug together all the way. 

Replacing parts before you determine the cause of the problem is a popular past time but can get expensive.  

The smart fellow who solved my issue said to run the engine and jiggle all the wires under the hood and sure enough it sputtered and stalled. 

Good luck. 

Hi Jeff, thanks for the notes,, i am hoping!!


I know you need some --road time to detmine if the sputter problem is fixed
Besides you - i can not wait for this to get repaired and see if we are there
Hope you are driving around with a big smile on your face but that is the only reason --i will accept --you getting back --on the later side --to let us know how things are going
No news - is good news --if it means you are out enjoying the ride and car
These cars are on the high side of reliable once you get past some of the bugs that have to be worked out when purchasing a car that needs restoration


You have really cover a good number of

Your determination to know and repair what the car requires will allow you to enjoy a very good running Classic Antique Cadillac
I do think --anyone owning one of our cars at this point in time --needs to take the approach you have and be hands on as much as it is possible in keeping it running well
Repairing and getting to know what makes the -car tick --will allow you to keep the car in good operating condition and save you a good deal of dollars in the process
You will also know that the repair was done right --because you did it
You have been through a lot of required repairs with your CDV but i am seeing the light at the end of the tunnel


Tony,  well,

last night after my afternoon ride, took her out on the by pass and it ran like shyt,   sputtered, hesitated.  so it was back to the internet to search,,nothing new,, either fuel or electrical,, but i did get a really good description from someone on how it feels,, he said it "pulsed" at cruising speeds mostly and at very slight applications of gas pedal,, that pulsed feeling, plus the occasional complete drop off of rpm is exactly the term i was searching for,, so, 

today, as i was planned to do, i checked timing after all the wire changes, distributor tied down, checked the plugs, all seemed good order,

I hooked up the timing gun and checked timing, it was off 5 degrees,, up at 0,, so i turned in back to the 5 as prescribed in the book and the car just sounded so much better as the distributor turned,, 

i am now off for another test ride, and see how it does..

stay tuned.!!

speaking of schnauzers,, they are chick magnets!!!!  

If the timing adjustment does not solve the problem feels like time to address the carb rebuild

I have not been completely comfortable with the carb issue since we had one of the very first problems with the car on an incline -that caused the engine to totally flood with gas ( as i have expressed before )
If the needles and seats in the carb were --closing off the gas supply ( internai carb ) as they should be -- i do not see how the engine could possibly flood as it did
That should not happen even if the car is on an incline
The carb is leaking gas into the intake manifold - when it should not be doing that
That additional ( unwanted gas ) i do think is your sputtering problem
This stuff is always a process of elimination which is now leading to a carb rebuild
As i see it


Tony,, gonna see if this last revelation of timing and such does the trick,, if not,, a rainy day, and the carb thing will be gotten into,, hoping beyond hope this does it..

i understand what you are saying about the stuff in the carb,, all of my you tube research has given me a little better understanding of what it does,

Another often overlooked item is the coil. 

You could check for a strong spark blue or weak yellow.  This might be affected by engine heat  

 We had a cracked coil that was failing the crack was facing the manifold and not visible. 

If sputtering only happens when the car is warmed up it could be related to heat and or air affecting the fuel delivery  

Did you try jiggling the unferhood wires with the engine running?

did you check the carburetor to intake manifold bolts? The pcv hose and valve? The vacuum lines at rear of carburetor?

is your car overheating? 

are your battery cables and alternator wires clean and tight?

A cracked intake manifold could let air into the engine once it gets hot but this is probably rare  

HI Jeff

havent checked coil yet,, 

did give wires a shake this a.m.,, nothing was noted.

havent turned manifold blots, how  or valve,  i am going to finish my riding on the electrical thing, if that doesnt get it,, its up to the carburetor thing,, i cant do too many things at once, i will get overwhelmed..

car does not over heat,, always runs at 1/4 on the gauge,, unless i drive at 70 or so, and it will bump up a little, but maybe a 1/8th inch past the 1/4 mark.  if i drop speed, it comes back down.

yes, battery cables, grounds etc are good, dealt with all that during some starter issues.

if these recent revelations dont fix it,, i will be heading up to carburetor.,,, again,.thanks for the info.. 

Have you replaced the distributor cap? Spark plug and Coil to cap wires? 

Have you drained and flushed your gas tank? 

Is the steel line from the fuel pump to the carburetor touching the intake manifold?

Have you replaced the fuel pump?

Have you inspected the sock filter on your fuel tank pick up?

did you check the vacuum advance diaphragm on your distributor?

If you go end to end with the fuel system and ignition system you will likely find the culprit. 

These cars were designed to run reliably and simply but the component parts were never expected to last 54 years!

Also not all replacement parts are correct or good quality.



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