After finding leak arpund rim of trans pan.  I ordered a gasket.  

I was checking to see if there are any pitfalls or suggestions to getting it right.

I assume drain pan from the drain bolt, then pull the pan and replace.  Will anything drop or fall from the underside of the pan on removal that i should be concerned with.

Views: 175

Reply to This

Replies to This Discussion

nothing should drop.

check it for flatness while it's out, people overtorque them and they pucker at the bolt holes.
to flatten it, put the flange on a piece of wood and lightly tap the bolt holes till there is little or no gap when checking with a straight edge

ok,, thanks for the information,,   i will give it a go...

i got the pan off and cleaned it up,, the old gasket took some time to get off the pan.  everything looked clean and covered with dripping transmission fluid..i cleaned up the pan real good with no dirt or debris nd put the pan back on before the darkness got me..

i checked the manual for true on those bolts and it said a 5/16 at 18 lbs.  well, mine had 1/2 bolt, and it said the drain was 40 lbs.. 

so i became confused as to whether 18 lbs was correct so i thought i would ask to make sure i got the right torque figures.. 

what would the torque for the bolts be, and is the drain plug at 40??

Ugh.  I think i got it.  The 5.16 bolt is the shaft size not the head size.

Just make the drain plug reasonably tight and be sure it’s not leaking

Enjoy  

well, i replaced the gasket,  and dumb ass me, read the wrong listing for bolt tongue,, i found the drain plug torque of 40, and the entry right above.. said 13,, that was the day before i put the pan back on.. so, next day, i went back and looked again, and read the wrong dam entry and it said 18,, so i put 18 in,, well you guessed it, it crushed the gasket,, so, back to oreilly,,  got new ones coming tomorrow with 13 currently embedded in my head... 

on a good note, so far, the replaced valve covers are not leaking as of now as of the change the other day..  and the fuel pump back bolt doesnt seem to be leaking anymore as well after pulling it and putting some gasket seal on the threads and putting back in.. so hopefully, two minor seepages are tackled.. .... i say with fingers crossed

for me  2 outta 3  is pretty good,, bak to the pan tomorrow

Carpenter's say "Measure twice, cut once". Mechanics might say "Read twice, torque once!" Perhaps, you should add a step "Read twice, write it down, torque once!" With that I am surprised 18 inch/lbs crushed the gasket. That is only 1.5 ft lbs.  I could see 5, 10 or maybe 18 ft lbs crushing the gaskets, but 18 inch/lbs should absorb that torque .. I would think.  I would make double sure you are reading and setting your torque wrench correctly.  

Well,  i kinda thought inch pounds but it says ft lbs at top of column.  Or, am i reading the chart wrong,  its under the hydra matic transmission chapter.  Attaching photo to verify

book photo of torque,, am i looking at the right entry??

Attachments:

That is 13 ft lbs. You stated "18 in" and I read that as 18 inch lbs and thought you were referring to inches. When the shop manual lists inch lbs (e.g. the valve covers) it will specifically state inches. So yes, 18 ft lbs could crush the gasket when it should be 13 ft lbs. As I had stated in another thread, you want to gradually increase the torque. For 13 ft lbs I would torque to 5 ft lbs, then 10 ft lbs then 13 ft lbs using a back and forth torque pattern.   

ok,, good,, I'm sorry for the typo that confused your answer and understanding,i guess iw as thinking i was putting 18 lbs in the torque wrench,, so again, sorry for that confusion., but i am glad that i am on the right page and the right items,,,,thanks again for re reading and setting me strait,,,,,i will get this figured out one day,, 

Quick question on transmissuon pan.  I got off for second time,  looked were leaks came from.  And was looking to see if pan flatt.  

Should all the bolt holes have a little rise or should the be flat flush w the flat surface,

The re leak occured at the split gasket, felt like that was good reason for leak.  But other one was were it leaked before. Front right corner,  so,  do i need to flatten bolt holes for uniform flat surfacr all the way around?

RSS

Photos

  • Add Photos
  • View All

Forum

Rear glass

Started by David Stapp in 1963/64 Cadillac Specific Discussion. Last reply by David Stapp 30 minutes ago. 10 Replies

anyone know of a company that makes the rear glass for our cars? I can’t seem to find any. 1964 4 door 4 window hard top.…Continue

Where can I buy resistance wire for my 1963?

Started by Tim Walterson in 1963/64 Cadillac Specific Discussion. Last reply by Tim Walterson 33 minutes ago. 4 Replies

Hello - just signed up for this forum - looks like a great resource!  I perused the posts and did some searches.  I see most of the posts related to my questions are about doing away with resistance…Continue

front engine pulley removal

Started by tom servas in 1963/64 Cadillac Specific Discussion. Last reply by tom servas 11 hours ago. 7 Replies

Am removing the front cover on our 64 engine with AC. Have all 6 bolts that hold the pulley onto the damper removed, can wiggle the pulley BUT it will not come fully off the damper, Is there…Continue

Blog Posts

Is there a separate Starter Relay, or does the Solenoid serve that purpose?

Posted by Norman Silverman on August 30, 2019 at 5:57pm 7 Comments

Hello All.

I will be replacing the starter solenoid tomorrow (actually my mechanic will do the work, I'll just supervise). In checking the FSM electrical schematic and chapter verbiage, I don't see anything that looks like (or is referred to as) a starter Relay. It seems the Starter Solenoid serves the function and there's no separate relay. Right or Wrong?

If wrong, where…

Continue

Starter Solenoid replacement-how difficult? Where to buy?

Posted by Norman Silverman on August 20, 2019 at 8:24pm 8 Comments

Hello All.

I believe the starter solenoid has gone bad in my 64 DeVille. When I turn the key, often all I get is a click, then if I try a few times again the starter turns perfectly. All battery cables are on tight and the battery is good. So, I believe this problem is the solenoid. Where do I buy the right solenoid and is it necessary to remove the starter in order to swap it out? …

Continue

Frame Markings

Posted by Gene McIlroy on August 12, 2019 at 6:26pm 1 Comment

Just got my frame back from powder coating so thought I would post photos of the front and rear frame markings.…

Continue

Lining up the drive shaft

Posted by Dominic Salemi on August 12, 2019 at 5:47pm 2 Comments

Can anyone shed some light on how to position the complete drive shaft in the correct position? I want to make sure my drive shaft is installed properly.

Thanks

Dominic

Videos

  • Add Videos
  • View All

© 2019   Created by Jason Edge.   Powered by

Badges  |  Report an Issue  |  Terms of Service