I would do some research on acid dipping Joe. That method of stripping the paint and rust has fallen out of favour. It appears that once the paint is out of all the nooks and crannies you are never able to properly get paint back in there. It will continue to rust and drip rusty water out of those spots. A good body shop will have the best ideas on how to prep that lid.
Acid dipping is perfectly O.K. but you should e-coat (electrophoretic paint) all the parts after the paint has been stripped. This method will fill all the nooks and crannies as the parts are completely submerged in a basin during the process.
If you fail to do this you will -indeed- see the effect described by Clovis.
There is also the sound deadening material sandwiched between the metal layers. Just sand it, spray it with the rust treaters available, and shoot in paint. You got an excellent trunk lid to work with.
64 deck lids don't have the insulation, sound deadening materials like the 63's (at least not on the 40+ 64's I have had on hand), but still agree your deck lid looks nice and a body shop should be able to quickly prep it for painting with little effort.
I think I'm going to go with just letting a body shop take care of it. I'm just so concerned that a year or two from now the rest will come back. So I'm going to try to get some sort of a guarantee.
Hey Joe, I think guarantees only come with electric toasters, but worth a shot. :-)
Yeah, good luck with the guarantee! I have been dealing with the same person, Phillip, I guess 15 years now and we both understand I have no expectation other than the fact he is going to do the best job he can. He explains what he will do and I am welcome to stop by and watch as they work. He runs a family owned shop that has been around for I guess 40 years and does quality work and if something crops up, I do not blame him whatsoever. He is starting to go over my 2002 Escalade section by section as he did the 64 CDV, and have to say it is always a pleasure to work with someone like Phillip that truly cars about your car and making sure you are happy and satisfied.
I think I'm going to go with just letting a body shop take care of it. I'm just so concerned that a year or two from now the rust will come back. So I'm going to try to get some sort of a guarantee.
Have you considered the option of removing the skin, blasting and sealing the inner, and then reinstalling the skin? Body shops do it all day on doors, it's exactly the same process. The edges are folded over, spot welded, and seam sealed. As long as the metal isn't too thin, and the body man watches what he's doing, it will come right off and go right back on.
I did this on the trunk of one of my 66's which was bad enough that i felt i had nothing to lose. The leading edge cracked when i opened it, but i laid a mig bead all along it and ground it back so smooth you can't even see the repair. New sound deadener in between (modern urethane sealer applied just before reassembly) , and i couldn't be happier with the result. It used to make a sound like a maraca when it opened from all the rust and debris that was floating around in there. Not anymore!
Joe, there is no rust on the deck lid. Surface scale comes off with sand paper and elbow grease. I would be looking at 10-15 years maybe on something, but that is a clean deck lid.
Joe, you are concerned that the rust will come back in a year or 2. I'm saying that you need not worry for 10-15 years, if not at all, as there is no rust on the deck lid. What is on the part right now is flashing or slight surface rust. Easily sanded off. The seams should be treated with a rust converter, to get any possible corrosion in the seams.