Hi everbody, I've just uploaded a video in YouTube. It would be nice, if "somebody" takes a look and an ear to the sound. Here's the text: ""coldstart" by 20 degrees celsius outside temperature. rocker arms and shafts are new. the valve tips have only appr. 1 mm material left. the lifters and pushrods are "old", but they are looking good. oil and filter are changed. the rods and the lifters are spinning - I think, that this is normal. if the engine gets warmer, the noise is getting less. even after appr. 3 minutes the oil appears on the top of the rocker arm and goes down to the end to prime the valve tip. less than one: no oil. the oil indicator in the cockpit shows pressure quickly and any time. oil: 20 W 50. any suggestions ? oil pump? valves (guides) ? hydraulic lifters ? pushrods ? a rod knock ? or maybe everything....if you like, you can also e-mail me: email@example.com. many thanks, Robert out of Germany."
Thank you friends !valvetrain noise cadillac 1964 429 cui
Hi Mark, the Kroon Oil is available in Germany. But, I've put in the 5 W 50 Synthetic Oil with the additive I've mentioned. The valve train noise - even in the coldest start - has not gone, but it's less than before. I've also checked the oil pressure with a gauge: it's 25 PSI at idling and 35 PSI in driving condition. That seems to be good (for me). But, I think, that I have to clean - or maybe replace - the lifters and the pushrods in time.
Hi Mark, the Kroon oil classic really seems to be perfect for our cars. So I think, I'll use this (10W30 or 15W40?) oil the next time before "riding" to Croatia this year. The oil, that I'm now using (5W50 synthetic with the additive) forces my engine to leak more than I can bear. Even the oil pump is leaking - although the pressure is perfect. So I take this as a "flush".
Have used both, but prefer 15W40 over 10W30. Less “sweating”.
Yes Tony belly buttons LOL
The expression they use in my neck of the woods is- everyone has an A--hole ( I hang out with a rough crowd )
There was this guy who had a belly button that Was shaped like a srew head
For years he ignored it but on day he could not take it any more
He unscrewed it ----and his Ass --fell OFF !!!!!!! LOL !!!!!
Do be careful what you screw --and unscrew --is the moral of that story
Robert, I had a tick from one or two of my lifters when I got the car. The engine had been rebuilt but it had sat for a bunch of years and never ran on the road. I did an engine flush with kerosene and the ticks went away. I did about four flushes in a row until the oil came out golden. I used cheap new oil with three liters of oil and three of kerosene. You can also use diesel fuel in place of kerosene. Do NOT drive on the road with the flushing fluid in the engine. Some genital reving to 3000 rpms with no load on the engine is fine. If the engine is full of sludge do not do this as it will dislodge said sludge and could do more damage. I do this to every used car I get and then change the oil every 5000 kilometers. Good luck
Speaking of different oil viscosity, I’ve tried all different types of oil for my 64 and so far after using everything from 5W40 Mobil 1 to 10W30 Valvoline racing oil, my 64 for whatever reason will lose oil pressure using the lighter weight viscosity oils pretty fast. So I decided to go with Castrol GTX 20W50 oil with Rislone Zinc additive and so far the engine has been maintaining its oil pressure much better and the engine doesn’t tick or tap like it used to.
I have also dealt with valvetrain noise more specifically lifter tick/tap for the longest time. I installed an oil pressure gauge and after awhile of driving the oil pressure would drop to almost nothing! That was why the lifter tick would get so bad. I always keep an eye on it now and if ever that happens again, I immediately turn off the car. My engine has an oil pump problem obviously because this isn’t normal. I will eventually someday soon have to repair the oil pump, but for now using thicker oil had help make the engine run smoother.
Quote, "...some genital reving...." ??? I'd like to have been there to watch. LOL
I figured our resident perv would have caught that first! LOL
I just fixed a friends 63 that was having oil pressure problems for the longest time. The oil pump end cap that contains the pressure regulator was bad, It had a wear mark where the piston was traveling at the pressure relief point, causing the loss in oil pressure at idle.
Installed a good end cap and the problem was solved.
Good to know Russ, is it a hard job to do? How long does a repair like that take? I might just end up taking the Caddy to the shop if it’s pretty involved since I just don’t have the time to do major work on my 64 right now. My new job has taken up a lot of my time and energy.