Hi everbody, I've just uploaded a video in YouTube. It would be nice, if "somebody" takes a look and an ear to the sound. Here's the text: ""coldstart" by 20 degrees celsius outside temperature. rocker arms and shafts are new. the valve tips have only appr. 1 mm material left. the lifters and pushrods are "old", but they are looking good. oil and filter are changed. the rods and the lifters are spinning - I think, that this is normal. if the engine gets warmer, the noise is getting less. even after appr. 3 minutes the oil appears on the top of the rocker arm and goes down to the end to prime the valve tip. less than one: no oil. the oil indicator in the cockpit shows pressure quickly and any time. oil: 20 W 50. any suggestions ? oil pump? valves (guides) ? hydraulic lifters ? pushrods ? a rod knock ? or maybe everything....if you like, you can also e-mail me: sherrick@gmx.de. many thanks, Robert out of Germany."

Thank you friends !valvetrain noise cadillac 1964 429 cui

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It took less than10 min to get the front of the car up on jack stands and remove the 4 bolts to the oil pump end cap.

Clean up the gasket surfaces and put the good end cap back on.  Instead of packing the gears with vasoline, I just took the oil filter housing off by the 3 bolts and used a syringe to put oil into the front hole of the tube. That put oil directly into the oil pump.

I had to take the alternator belt off to move the alternator to access the bolts.


Thank you for your info on the oil pressure problem at idle --repair
Great stuff to know and share my friend
Such a very easy repair to correct a possible very serious possible engine damaging issue

I remember a story about someone driving to a Grand national event when there oil light came on
They pulled over and shut the car down
They found metal debris in that pump that was causing the problem from a prior engine repair if i remember that correctly

Really need to keep that oil flowing around the inside of the engine-- for sure


So, it's me again. I found out, that it was not (only) the valve train. The rod bearings were worn. I had put in new ones (.030). It took a long time before I found out which size I needed. The old bearings were "Clevite 77 CB 472 P" - built in October 1990. Now I know, when my engine was rebuilt. (It could be a few years later). Back in the day, they used to stamp the size with ink on the back side of the bearing. On only one of 16 pieces I could see ".030". What a challenge. Anyway: the crank looks good. I've also checked the main bearings and the look good. Only one rod journal is not so good. After I've put everything together - I've lubricated every bearing with rear axle oil SAE 90 - and fired the engine up, I think, that I now have problems with the oil pressure. It takes about 3-4 seconds, before the oil pressure light disappears, when starting the engine. A manometer shows 10-15 psi with idling and 25 to 30 psi in driving condition. I've also checked the oil pump gears and housing (see pics) (Valve/Spring are good). At no time, the oil pressure light goes on while driving. My engine seems to be better than before: less noise in every piece. I am now using the "Kroon Classic Oil 15 W 40" together with the "Marvelous Mystery Oil" (gas tank / oil). Comments? Thanks, Robert


some more pics. Compression test (in bar) and the back side of the "one and only" old rod bearing.



The oil light should be on for 3-4 sec ( or2-3 ) that is just normal for my 64 and these cars
Have my car since new
Your oil pressuse numbers are also normal as they should be
All is well --as i see it regarding oil pressure numbers

I like using Marvelous Mystery oil for what it is recommended for over 50 years myself

That oil got my dads airplane engine through its annual tear down by incresing the cylinder compression to acceptible limits when added to the oil
That a a few more motor cycle related repair events have me a fan of this oil

Best of luck with the new engine build


You have your car since new? Wow! Unbelievable! Thanks for this! Robert

Put the shorter oil filter on. People have reported better oil pressure with the shorted oil filter.

Hi Russ, I've just ordered the original shorter oil filter. Thanks for this comment!

I'm just not sure how the shorter filter would provide better oil pressure, unless a shorter filter implies a more restrictive design?  I think the filter would fill up quicker when dry and potentially save a second or two on oil distribution after a new filter is installed but just not sure how it would provide better oil pressure once engine has run a few seconds and filter is full of oil. I could see differences in filter design affecting the ability to push the oil thru the engine. I know the original PF-7 filter, which was more comparable to the taller filters of today, were touted as free flowing, and perhaps some of the newer designs are a bit less "free flowing".  It would be interesting to know the technical reasons why someone would say the shorter filters provide better oil pressure. Regardless, I just ordered 5 original type PF-7 filters and plan to swap out my "short" filter at some point and will try to remember to attach the oil pressure gauge and see if I see any difference. 
The notion of shorter oil filters providing better oil pressure falls firmly in my SOM (Skeptical but Open Minded) approach to things like this.


Like your thought on going to the smaller oil filter to improve oil pressure


I like it too !


It appears you have a mixture of the thick rear axel grease ( bearing coating ) and the motor oil of your choice in your crankcase after the engine start up
That may be having the effect of increasing the present oils thickness to some degree

Not sure --what effect if any that may have on your oil pressure numbers but as i said your number look correct at at idle and on the road for our year engines




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