Hi.
Update:
I removed both 7 nipple vacuum valves and called my buddy who owns a machine shop. Tomorrow we'll re-surface the valve faces and then I'll reinstall them. HOWEVER, the one that comes out easily and comes apart with no rivet is on the Power module side. It installs on one side with a small bolt, and on the other it is held on by a clip, WHICH IS MISSING ON MY CAR. I am going to assume it is the same clip that is used on the Control Module side. Anybody got one? Happy to pay for it.
Thanks
Norm
Comment
VERY good point, Clovis. I'm going to think on it and play with the system some more, then test the power module like the book says, but I am liking the idea that the arm is not traveling far enough; it only goes on HI heat, no further. If your theory is correct, it would stay on low heat if anything (it is in the mid 70's here).
OK, blower works. Air reaches the bottom of the outlet (square, insulated large connector that exits the evaporator) but won't come out of anywhere. There's air leaking all around that area, but that's easy to re-insulate and contain. So, I disconnected the arm on the power module that interacts with the heater/ac door and moved it manually; I do get heat through the heater ducts (and hot air through the AC vents) because it blows when I manually move the lever. I think the arm on the power module is not moving far enough (it IS getting correct 10 in of vacuum) and/or the temp wheel is out of calibration because it favors ac, not heat (meaning the arm does not move far enough to engage the slower heater speeds and the arm does not respond to control wheel heat requests until way up in the 80's on the wheel). So, I think at least I need a good power module. Where to purchase, please?
Yes, the hinges are a recurring theme for me-the stuff that nightmares are made of.
I managed to take the duct apart, but not out.. This enabled me to put my camera inside; beautifully clean. Then, I went inside the car and stuck the camera in the heater duct work, again beautifully clean. Somewhere a door is not opening or something is stuffed where it does not belong. I also figured out that what I thought was output from the fan was, in fact, INPUT TURBULENCE. DUH!
So, now my concentration will be on the ductwork and maybe the heater core. We'll see.
Gotta go shower and tend to my wounds; the farthest screw on the bottom of the duct is a real nightmare to reach-even with the inner fender removed.
Making progress. Inner fender removed;duct loosened; strong breeze felt in the duct. Motor working correctly. Must be clogged Evaporator. Need small light on a stick to insert in to duct (can't remove it because hood hinge is in the way) so I can insert my camera on a stick to inspect the innards of the duct work where it meets the evaporator.
Yes.
So, the motor is turning in the right direction, which means there must be a blockage down the line. When I next have the time I am going to try to remove the duct parts (after taking out the inner fender liner for better access) and see if the duct passageway is blocked, which I now believe to be the case. Thanks for the encouragement and clarifications!
Norman, As I indicated "it turns counter clockwise looking down from the motor end toward the cage", which is the orientation in the picture. When you have the motor in your hand, look straight down at it as seen in this picture, (which would be looking up from underneath if mounted up in the blower motor case assembly) it is turning counter clockwise as noted by the arrow in my picture. Regardless of how you characterize it or word it the fan cage blows in the direction of the arrow in my picture. If your motor is turning in this direction, it is correct. If it is turning in the opposite direction it is incorrect.
Good thing you did this. That appears to be the motor and casing that when mounted in the car gets flipped up, so that the "4-64" would be on the bottom, and the open area it is currently resting on would be facing upwards. In that condition, what is moving counterclockwise in this configuration would be moving clockwise when turned upside down, like when it is installed. My motor cage is turning correctly.
To anyone's knowledge is there an electrical fault that can happen that can reverse the polarity of the motor, or is this likely something that has to be tracked down?
I promise to read every answer carefully.
OK, looks like the motor is spinning CLOCKWISE so somebody crossed a wire somewhere. I will start tracking down that circuit.
THANK YOU!!
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