Well, after the EM thing, i took the car out for a ride, i was styling and profiling, waving at the chicks,, and wen i pull ed up to a stop, and gave it some brake, the whole car felt like it shook .

alarmed, i pulled over, looked for fluids, nothing leaking , now i have had the parking brake on for several days while it was on the blocks, and i know i had released it, so it was nt that, i dont think.

so, i got it home, nothing noted, but i did feel it sort of want to go into a skid at slight pressure from the back end, didnt feel like it was from the front brakes.  more of a drag skid than a putting on brakes too hard in ihefront skid.  anyway, sadly, i parked it.  Well, i thought , after about an hour, maybe take to liquor store about mile away, see how it felt for diagnosis.  at a very slow speed, brakes applied, the car just felt like it shook.,, that was before i got to the first end of the block.  so i backed up, parked it and said FK!!!!  went to friends house, couple hours later, came back, took around block, never felt the car shake, thing, but did get into the feeling the rear brakes were skidding at light pressure,, so  i got home, put in the back drive way,

now for history,  i replaced all brakes on front back in summer.  cylinders, shoes, springs, brake hoses, etc, with a kit with all the parts.. had drums re cut/ spun, what ever the term.  and up till today, every thing was hunky dory.  back brake were not dealt with at the time.   The skid feels like it is from the back.. sooooo the nagging question,  

what could THIS be??

frustrated in MS,,

Kim

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With all the gunk being on the ends, would it make sense that thats were the leak woukd be,  or coukd it be leaking i. The middle and somehow getting to the ends.  I rrad about rear ends in the help section as well

Just checked the manual.  Would this oil seal be the one right behind thebearing and grease seal assembly. ?v

  Is that the seal you are suggesting being bad ? Or is it another one in that rear wheel disassembled photo on pg 7,,7

Kim if there is any wetness behind the wheel cylinder rubber cups the cylinders are bad. They are easily repaired right on the car for about 50 cents a cylinder for new rubber cylinder piston seals. They are 1" in size. Wheel cylinder hones are very cheap and you can hone a cylinder right on the car. It only takes a lite touch with the hone to clean up the cylinders. If the cylinder is leaking then the black greasy residue is brake dust and brake fluid mixed together. Put a little water on your fingers with the residue if it dissolves then it's brake fluid as that's water soluble. Grease and oil is not water soluble and won't dissolve. I also suggest you flush out all the old brake fluid front to back and replace with synthetic fluid. The new stuff is not hydroscopic and won't absorb water. As has been suggested replacing the hoses on each side is a good idea. If you have  a cracked brake shoe it's time to replace them all. In regards to you rear brakes locking up, the very first place I would look to is air in the brake lines. Once you have everything repaired I would bleed the whole system again. Lastly when installing new brake shoes it will take a few hundred miles to have everything seat or mate up before working it's very best. 

As for the rusty looking oil that came out of the rear axle when you opened it up is not a good sign. It means water has gotten in there at some point and it wasn't addressed or its condensation from the oil not getting warm enough to heat off the water. At any rate it's only a matter on time before tou have some sort of rear axle failure. I would suck out as much of the rear axle oil as possible and refill it to the bottom of the oil plug. I would then drive it for several hundred miles, drain again and refill with good gear oil. This is suggested if you have no leaks at the axle seals or at the pinion seal. If there are heavy leaks at these three points then you can replace the seals and oil at the same time. But that's a whole other thread you have to start. Regards and happy repairing. 

ok,, sounds good,,

i have ordered new shoes, new lines and decided to jus replace he cylinders,  they are on order as well.  I may give the gear oil check try tomorrow as my other parts dont come in till tues or wed.. 

 i will search the help forum for damaged axle, but for the sake of discussion, it that a replaceable item at some point or are those parts hard to come by?  

thanks again for all the help guys,, 

Kim I doubt you have an axle problem. If you have a bad bearing either axle or pinion, as Anders pointed out, you would know it. Fix your brakes flush out your rear axle dope and go from there. 

Tony, since I replaced the master cylinder, booster and wheel cylinders when I got the car, I have no comparison of what the dot 3 fluid and synthetic fluid differences are. My brakes are definitely not soft. This is the first time I've ever heard of synthetic over dot 3 is a softer pedal. I'm trying to comprehend how a fluid can compress whatever type it is. This why we use fluid to transfer pedal energy to the brake shoes. Maybe someone can enlighten us as to how a fluid can compress and make a pedal feel soft? The benefits are definitely there such as a higher flash point and doesn't absorb water and rust out internal brake parts as a result of that water. This is a big plus for cars that sit a lot and are not able to heat up the old fluid and get rid of the water. As for the change out interval I would think it'll outlast me. The first stuff was in there for 50 years most likely. 

Yes correct Tony, dot 5 silicone based. I flushed out all my steel lines, everything else was new so it didn't need flushing. 

Maybe someone can add to the discussion about soft brakes from synthetic fluid? 

Unless you are racing your Cadillac, using DOT 5 fluid is a waste of time and money.  DOT 3 is perfectly suited for the use of our cars.

Russ no racing for my Cadillac, just a few spirited pedal mashes on the open road on occasion. The price difference between dot 3 and 5 is not that big compared to all the other work that gets done to my car. 

Since you live in the dry Arizona environment I can understand your questioning the need for this synthetic fluid. All problems with brakes in my area comes down to humidity. A car that sits for months during the winter or even only driven rarely during to summer can be subject to substantial sweating. A cold car and a hot humid day causes a car around here to literally look like it's just been hosed down. It depends on the environment it's kept in. Even one kept in a garage that's not insulated with a cement floor is subject to sweating. This is especially bad in the spring months, think of a beer can coming out of an ice chest sitting in a humid environment. This leads to wheel and master cylinder and caliper failure from the water that builds up in dot 3. This sweating also rusts the rotors and drums on the cars if they are not driven on a regular basis. My  Dodge Ram had to have the rotors replaced three years ago (6 months old) because of rust. I had not driven it all summer as I was driving my other cars. 

This came out of rear end  gear box,   oukd only get about 12 oz.  Goint to try a little more flexibke hose if i can find one.  I didnt see any water settling or metal .

I compared to 75 90 oil. Which is virtually clear.   Im going to stick my light camera in there to see wats in side.   Licke a procto scope

That's not rusty Kim, that's the colour of old rear axle oil. Smells nice doesn't it? I did mine twice to flush out the old stuff but you don't really have to do that. No water looks like it got in there. 

I was a bit surpised as the stuff that fell out whwn i pulled out that 4 bolted piece was a difffrent color,  

Yes, quite fragrant.  

Finger  to big.  Used a small hose to try to gauge .  Est8mated to b about were you suggested.  I did noice tge back of the wheel housing under the wheel cyknder on the driver side was really black and nasty. Much more so than the passenger side.  Like it was leaking out of cyknder were it attaches to the brake line

The colour of the axle oil at the backing plates (brakes) is probably different because there isn't a lot of oil exchanging through the axle tubes. Inside the rear differential there are groves and valleys to direct oil to the outer axle bearings when the gears throw the oil around.  If the oil level is low it can hinder this process and even full I doubt it's getting a good exchange of oil. If the stuff that came out of the backing plates was rusty looking or brown instead of black I would look into changing the axles seals. I can't say for sure you require this and it is a lot of work. Flushing the old lubricant once or twice may flush out the stuff at the ends. 

I haven't had my axles out and don't have the shop manual handy to look it up but you may be able to remove the backing plates and the axles will slide out. Other rear pigs need to have the differential cover removed and clips pulled. Jason, Tony, and others should be able to tell you if it's by backing plate removal. 

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