HVAC Vacuum Valve Clip-need the one for the Power Control side

[Norman Silverman]

Hi.

Update:

I removed both 7 nipple vacuum valves and called my buddy who owns a machine shop. Tomorrow we'll re-surface the valve faces and then I'll reinstall them. HOWEVER, the one that comes out easily and comes apart with no rivet is on the Power module side. It installs on one side with a small bolt, and on the other it is held on by a clip, WHICH IS MISSING ON MY CAR. I am going to assume it is the same clip that is used on the Control Module side. Anybody got one? Happy to pay for it. 

Thanks

Norm 

[Norman Silverman]

When you say double  halved duct, I think I know what you are referring to and it has lower bolts that are likely reached by taking the inner fender inspection panel off. Right?

[Norman Silverman]

This is what I was originally referring to when I said I thought my blower motor was reverse wired. This car does not  look like it has ever been apart, so I am inclined to go with the blocked duct. I can reach the blower cage and feel which way it is turning, I just didn't make note of it. I will now. I get just the slightest hint of a breeze out the AC vents when AC is selected and a slight hint of a breeze out the heater outlet when heat is selected. But I mean BARELY PERCEPTIBLE, so I like the blocked duct theory. I took off 4 of the duct bolts (the upper ones that attach to the split duct that leads immediately away from the blower motor) and there's a breeze there. This is getting annoying, cause I can see the power piston arm move from cold to heat and vice versa. I have not done any electrical evaluation yet as I am concentrating on air flow. Wish you lived closer!

[Jason Edge]

Something doesn't add up if you do not get air coming out of either AC Ducts or Floor heater ducts. I am sure you have studied the air flow diagrams and see that with any combination of the air inlet, temperature and mode door, that air always has an outlet.  When the blower motor and air inlet is working and blower motor is turning you have a very strong flow of air out the side feed via the metal duct to the evaporator. It doesn't matter where the air is pulling from up top (i.e. in the cabin or outside from the cowl) it blows strong air. I just pulled a blower motor and air inlet assembly and tested with 12 volts and it puts a strong force of air out the side. So, my guess is you have the wrong motor that is turning/blowing the wrong way, or you really have something jammed up there somewhere that is preventing the air flow from blower motor, to evaporator, to inside air distribution box.  I would be curious how this resolves. One thing you can do, is  remove the double halved blower motor evaporator metal duct and stick 12 volts to the motor and see if you get a strong current of air out that side feed!  If you remove the motor and just bench test it, it turns counter clockwise looking down from the motor end toward the cage.

[Norman Silverman]

Note: AC recirc door is bypassed, so there is no leak in the vacuum system. 

[Norman Silverman]

OK, Vacuum valves restored and installed.  Now all the vacuum doors (Except the AC RECIRC) operate properly, but the air is not going through either the AC vents nor the heater vents. Yes, the blower is blowing strongly-but air is backing up (going the wrong way) at the blower cage inlet. In other words, instead of being drawn in to the blower cage up top, it is being pushed out. I think the primary feed duct under the hood is blocked. We'll see.

[Norman Silverman]

Pictures? Here are pictures of the re-furbished valve with a new center and screwed in bottom

[Norman Silverman]

Pictures? We don't need no stinking pictures. No, I didn't. We'll see when I get the control side valves back from the machine shop and I install one. 

N

[Norman Silverman]

Dumb Question: On the 7 nipple vacuum valve that goes on the POWER PISTON side: I cleaned and re-installed the valve but noticed on the bottom (where it interacts with the plastic-tipped arm) that the valve has both a nub and a pointed, narrow arm. Which one is intended to slot in to the fork in the plastic spring-loaded arm below?

Thanks

[Norman Silverman]

To be clear, it is what we're doing for the valve on the control side, not the power piston side. I re-surfaced that one (power piston one), lightly greased it with vaseline and will be re-installing it tomorrow. 

[Norman Silverman]

That's pretty close to what we're doing. We are doing this in such a way as to be able to re-use the spring to provide tension, as before. I'll take pictures. THANK YOU!

Norm

PS: In high school metals shop we were shown two identical pieces of metal that had been milled and finished so perfectly that when pushed together they stuck, and were very difficult to separate. So, I hear you re the tendency for the two halves to hold together without a rivet.