Diggn in the ac, hv some questions

[Kim K Kaiser]

I got the old compressor out, new one in.   As i looked at connections, i noted nothing woukd fit, soi was wondering. Do i need to take the rear bracket off the old unit and attach to the new unit?  This would be the part that the hoses connect to.  Not the bracket that attaches so you can affix to engine. I attaching a couple pictures of new compressor and old compressor rear ends.   I hv one of the high efficincy new compressrs from old air.  

One of those small metal hoses yhat attaches to the black tall boy looking can in the front will not release.  I hv it soaking in blaster  over night.  Hoping it breaks tomorrow.  

Any thoughts always appreciated

[Kurt]

Yes, you need to use the manifold from the old compressor to mount the hoses. Assuming the new compressor has metric threads like mine, you will need new bolts. My compressor came with mounting bolts but I did need to find a metric hex socket head cap screw for the hose manifold. The head on the cap screw was slightly larger than the original so I had to notch out the manifold slightly on the side where the large hose connects. It was very easy to do with a Dremel. In the pic, the notch area is marked in red.

[Kim K Kaiser]

Thanks,i hot the replacement screws from old aircas par of the package.  That stv chg out ooks like a rats  nest of hoses and wires.  Is it bestvto try to remove that whole thing to work on it. ?

[Kim K Kaiser]

thats a good question Tony,,, do I??   i read the help section on Mike Forte re do,, and didnt remember seeeing much there, except for o rings,,, im guesing o rings go in to every connection...correct?

[Kurt]

Yep. Lubricate all o-rings with same oil you will be using in the AC system. No sealants are used.

[Kim K Kaiser]

so no gasket or anything between the manifold and the rear of the compressor, just a flat connection,??

also,, how do you flush out the evaporator,,?  i see several post were that was done, but im not sure of the process there, heding to town tomorow, so may try to pick up some of the cleaner that Michael mentioned.  

and one more thing,, (sorry)  is chaging out that stv a requirement or and option with a new compressor?   

[Kurt]

There are o-rings between the manifold & compressor too.

Flushing the evaporator is the same process as flushing the condenser. Oreilly's loans out a flush tool. You run the flush through part and then follow with lots of air to push out the flush and fully dry out the part.

I got my flush solvent at an AC specialty shop, not an auto parts store. The flush I found at auto parts stores is citrus based and does not evaporate quickly like this stuff does. A quick sniff will tell you which it is. If it smells like oranges, it's citrus. If it smells like brake cleaner, it's solvent.

I'm still using the STV so installing the STV eliminator is not a requirement for the system to work. Doing so changes the system to a clutch-cycling system. Since I don't have it I can't really speak to it beyond that.  

[Kurt]

I didn't install the STV eliminator on my car so I have no advice on it other than follow the directions : )

[Kim K Kaiser]

Ok,  i watchedca few utubes on flushing out the condesr and evaporator.  Wat i cnt equate to my car, wherr do you put the air hose that you disperse the fluid. The one i watch was on a 71 chevy.  Looks likeche put itvup to a big hose, and shot it througg there.    Since i am replacing thise big hoses, is therecanother location to use as a blowout acess point.   Shoukd i be removing the big black case cover to see wats in there?   Is the evapoator that Kurt references inside there?  Sorry again forcthe ignorqnce.

[Kurt]

The evaporator is inside the black case on the firewall. Take off the STV (top of evaporator) and the expansion valve (bottom of the evaporator)  and run the flush through top to bottom then dry with lots of shop air. It is not necessary to remove the case for flushing but if you want to inspect the condition/cleanliness of the evaporator fins you'd have to remove it. 

[Kurt]

Tony, Correction: I DO have the stock STV installed. The modification is to install a STV eliminator to convert the system to a clutch cycling system. 

My AC is working well (gets colder than a penguin's pecker : ) These STVs are actually adjustable so you can lower the evaporator pressure for better performance with R134a. I also installed a pusher fan in front of the stock condenser to help the heat transfer. Another option would be to install high density condenser.

I do have a 63 so no automatic comfort control deciding to mix hot air, use outside air, or change the fan speed etc.

 

[Kurt]

I'm using the stock STV (suction throttling valve). They are adjustable per the steps below from the 63 shop manual. I set the pressure to 28 PSI for R134a. I'm pretty sure the same STV is used in 64.

[Kim K Kaiser]

Im guessing mine is stock.   Wouldvthis be an alternative to the eliminator package and other chg nsuggested  aftervthe conversion?