I am completing my engine rebuild and would love to add an EFI system vs a carb but I’m not prepared to spend over $1200 at this time.  I was just doing an engine rebuild then I dove into the trans and instead of rebuilding it I decided to upgrade to a Turbo 400 so that upgrade along with the adapter and misc. engine and trans parts put me over budget.  My choices are to rebuild the existing carb, buy a new carb or install a new EFI System.  Since I still have some other items to do and the car is more of a 2-3 day a week or weekend driver I am leaning toward a new carb, as I can always upgrade later to EFI.  With that being said what Holley (prefer Holley) would people recommend?  I’m looking for reliability and ease of service  vs increased performance, although all 3 would be great (yes I know EFI is the answer).  What CFM should I be looking at for a stock non-AC engine?  Definitely electric choke with a T400 kickdown.here are some photos

Always an option to rebuild it as well but I figured new out of the box may be better...however, I’ve been wrong before. Love to hear everyone’s thoughts.

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JAS ,two things come to mind; first, how much can you spend since $1200 is too much right now and second, why do you prefer Holley? Personally , I'd clean up & rebuild my  original carb if funds are tight or send it off for a professional rebuild if I could afford to. I did alot of research on Holley vs Edelbrocks for my 69 Mustang, came away with more reliablility with the Edelbrock  ,a bit more performance with the Holley. If you like to tinker and adjust frequently and know what you're doing ,go with the Holley. Don't want to offend anyone on here or start a war, that's just what I came away with. I went with the Edelbrock. Have enough other things to worry about on a car I haven't driven since 1983. Just my .02.

The stock Carter AFB and Rochester 4GC were fine carburetors, and absolutely nothing wrong in sending yours out to a reputable rebuilder.

Another option is the Edelbrock Performer series 600 cfm 1406 & 750 cfm 1411 which adds performance and an electric choke, not to mention it was derived from the Carter AFB so things like the metal fuel filter to carburetor line, and accelerator linkage are the same.  There are a few odds and ends such as TV rod on Hydramatic Transmission or electric kickdown switch connection on Turbo Hydramatic,   blocking intake exhaust port and adding insulator spacer, clearance of front butterflies in front ports on the 1411, and using an adaptor for using the stock air cleaner, are items that will need to be addressed. 

For Edelbrock installation details check out this Help Article:
- Carburetor - Edelbrock 1406 & 1411 Installation Summary

For factory CFM and details on 1963/64 Cadillac carbs check out this Help Page link:
Carburetors used in 1963 & 1964

Do you have the correct -- crankshaft in your engine to be mounting the turbo trans to that engine ?
When you say --up grade-- i am assuming you had the hydromatic behind that engine before
If that is the case i do think you have the wrong crankshaft in your engine to be putting a turbo trans behind it unless the crankshaft was changed during your current rebuild
The crankshaft end that sets into the turbo trans torque converter is slightly larger in size than that of the hydro trans ( the differenceis 1/8 inch )
The difference in that size if not correct has the effect of causing the torqe converter to crack and break parts in that area


Just spoke to my friend who is spearheading my engine rebuild and apparently the adapter plate was designed to address this issue.  As stated above besides damage to the TC apparently Improper alignment of the torque converter to crankshaft would also cause the flex plate (flywheel) to crack and make noise.  I was up all night reading about this and called my guy first thing this morning as that stuff is way out of my knowledge band.  Thank goodness for people like him and the people on this forum for bringing these things up.  Like I always say about Jason Edge and his knowledge this community in a wealth of information and input is always appreciated and welcomed.  

Tony is pointing out an important matter.

You need to know which of the two available crankshafts is on your engine on order to know which transmission will fit.

The adapter ring on the back of TH equipped cars was only to mate the bell housing (originally designed for Buick applications) to the Cadillac 429 in 1964.

The crankshaft fit is a seperate issue.

JAS that engine looks real nice sitting in there. If you going to upgrade to efi I wouldn't waste the money on a new carburetor. Do a down and dirty rebuild on your carb and wait to get the money to install an efi system. To prepare for an efi I would take the intake off and bore it out to accept the efi throttle body. You can look up my posts on my fitech set up to see how I did it. My car sat for over a year and fired up on one bump of the key without touching the pedal. Do that with a carburetor lol.

I agree with Clovis, if you think an EFI is in your future, I would rebuild your Rochester 4GC. Pretty simple rebuild, shop manual will take you step by step with good illustrations, kit is available from Rockauto for under $30, biggest thing during rebuild is to get the carb clean.

I am going to take your advice and rebuild the factory carb and enjoy the car for now, Upgrading to EFI later on.  Thanks for everyone input!!


A properly rebuilt original carburetor will work fine. However there are a few things specific to our cars to pay attention to for a good outcome:

1. Inspect your intake manifold for cracks and replace with a good unit if necessary.

2. Be sure to thoroughly clean all manifold heat passageways of carbon deposits as exhaust gas circulates though these passages to help warm the engine. 

3. Inspect and if necessary replace the choke heat tube. This tube crosses the hot exhaust pathway acting like a mini furnace tube and brings warm air to the choke housing. This is necessary for proper choke operation. 

4. Finally make sure all gaskets and insulators are installed per the factory shop manual. For the 4GC the sequence is gasket+insulator+2nd gasket, then carburetor. 

If you haven’t already done so you MUST get a 1964 Shop Manual. 

Good luck. 


Jeff Kinzler

You need to be --100% sure that your engines crankshafts end is correct for the trans you are bolting to it or you will be braking the flywheel in that location and have to start all over again to correct the engine trans combination
You may Possibly have to pull out the crankshaft and replace it with the correct one which would be a very big job after all you have done already
As Jeff indicated --the trans spacer for the 64 turbo trans is not what we are talking about
We are talking about the fit of the fly wheel to the end of the crankshaft
The flywheels for the two trans are different
The wrong fit in that location will leave a 1/8 inch open gap between the crankshaft end and the actual flywheel ( at the center circle )
The two parts when right should fit snuggly together as the 1/8 inch gap is what causes the flywheel to break apart
Just be sure you got that right to avoid other problems that could arise in the future and add to additional costs and down time

Ou could be opening a can of worms --for you newly rebuilt drivetrain which i want you to avoid




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