Hello, and thanks for adding to group!
I am restoring 1964 429 engine which I bought as dismantled. It is said to be smoking in driving and has been stored as parts for a year. It is most probably 65500 miles driven. Car was not driven for10 years.
The only damaged part found so far is the top of exhaust valve of cylinder #5. The top has been worn so much that the rocker has been pressing valve locks as well. Respective rocker is worn as well, much more than others. And exhaust rocker #6 is worn as well, and exhaust #8.
1. What damage could this cause? I can think that valve lift gets a bit smaller than it should, but so what?
2. Is that common for Cadillac 429 exhaust valves to worn from the top, especially cylinders #5 and #6? Maybe there is less oil.
This is my first V8 engine project. I have Shop manual. I plan to replace piston rings, all gaskets, nylon timing gear, some worn exhaust valves and rockers, and valve stem o-rings. Bearings, pistons and shafts are in good condition.
Big thanks in advance!
The THM to Adaptor ring are the longer bolts. Here are the specs:
- THM Trans to Adaptor Ring: 7/16"-14 1 1/2" Long Grade 5
- Adaptor Ring to Engine: 7/16"-14 1 1/4" Long Grade 5
Of course I have them cad plated but yours like in fine condition.
I have been busy with 66 coupe and new acquisition 67 convertible but now I decided to focus in getting rebuilt engine and th400 finally into 64 Engine Bay.
Approaching the — IT’S ALIVE !!!! ——IT’S ALIVE !!!! — let’s go for a Drive ! ——moment —LOL !
Should I get good compression results in cylinders when rotating engine manually slowly from crank bolt? Reason for asking is that I get very low numbers in meter. Engine is still in engine stand.
i could install adapter ring and rotate with starter to get proper results.
You will never get a good compression reading from the cylinders until the new rings seat to the cylinder walls —( valves seat - cam seats —etc ) only from putting miles on the engine
The rings in our engines— are exceptionally hard metal and take a bit longer to seat than most for that reason
You will be burning more oil than usual for the first 500-1000 miles so keep an eye on the oil level at that time
It is my opinion it takes 10,000 miles to seat an engine completely and SB done with conventional oil ( not Syn oil ) or the seating will take longer to happen
I do not exceed 50MPH during that time varying your speed constantly
Coming off the gas at 50 MPH down to 30 MPH will lube the valve train
Your next challenge will be ——-preparing the engine to fire up —-as quickly as is possible and get the RPMs up over 1000 RPMs for a half hour as that is what seats the metal to metal surfaces —to polish themselves together being the single thing to determine the engines long term health into the future
Mostly it’s about installing the dist correctly —having the points set ( must be set with a feeler gauge - .016 ) and the timing as close as is possible to its mark ( 5-8 degrees ) for an instant fire up ( gas in the tank )
So a very very important time and step
Hope that helps some
Change your oil at the first 1000 miles after a new engine start up
My results doing the above has resulted in an engine that burns no oil for its life time being a new engine rebuild or new car break in
I plan to use Edelbrock 1406 from my 66 for 64 engine break in. It works fine now in 66 so it should work fine in 64 as well from the beginning.
Your carb plan sounds like a good one
Not a good time to be fussing with a questionable carb —be it old or new( requiring adjustment ) at a new engine start up and run time