Hello, I come here seeking help. This might be long, but I want to thoroughly explain what I have already done, to avoid rehashing the same things (as I have done myself for weeks now).

I have a 64 Deville that I received in non running condition.  Old fuel had seized up some valves, and just about everything had to be taken apart, cleaned, and put back together.

The car only has 25,000 miles.  Well, 25,300 as of today.

I've had a really tough time getting it to run properly.  I had the heads cleaned up, a valve job performed, and hardened exhaust valve seats installed.

Compression is excellent and uniform across all cylinders, around 190.

I rebuilt the carburetor.

I disassembled and cleaned the fuel pump.

The fuel tank and sending unit have been replaced.

Obvious tuneup parts have been replaced with new.

First problem was that I was unable to get the idle down to 480RPMs in drive.  All vacuum lines were disconnected and capped to perform testing.  At first, I did have a leaking intake manifold gasket, I corrected that.  There are NO vacuum leaks.

After that, I was able to get the idle down, but it didn't run particularly well.  I adjusted the timing and dwell.  The car falls all over itself when trying to accelerate, and stalls most times.  No power. 

I went and bought an Edelbrock 1411 750CFM carburetor, as I suspected trouble (and doubted my rebuild) on the original Rochester.  I was able to get the car to kind of run with this carb, but only at idle.  Before I installed it, I removed the intake manifold, drilled, tapped, and installed brass plugs into the exhaust ports beneath the carburetor so that I could run any carburetor.  That's just a nasty idea anyway, but I digress.

I warmed the engine, and adjusted the mixture needles on the Edelbrock to get it dialed in, and began working toward lowering the idle to the specified 480 RPMs.  It doesn't really run well down that low.

I managed to get to run long enough with the vacuum advance unhooked to get the timing set to 5 degrees BTDC, and set the dwell at 30 degrees as specified in the manual. 

Back the car out of the garage- ok.. try to go, and it quits.  Very frustrating. 

So this morning, I thought, maybe the fuel pump isn't doing toowell.  I don't have a gauge that goes low enough, so I just went and bought a cheesy electric fuel pump and some fresh hose, and hooked that up.

Fire it up, idles fine, kick down the idle when it warms up, fine, no problem.  Try to go- and it quits.

So finally, I decided to start advancing the timing.  Maybe this is the issue?

Now we're getting somewhere.  It's now at least driveable.  But something is just not right.  It misses and spits and sputters under load, you have to feather the gas pedal to drive it.  Once you're at speed, you can ease into it and drive it to 80MPH effortlessly... the engine is clearly good and strong.  No noises, nothing- except random misfires and popping... not good at all :-(.

The advance mechanisms seem to be working.  With the timing light, quickly 'blipping' the throttle causes the timing to retard as you'd expect with reduced vacuum to the vacuum advance.

Steadily increasing the speed of the engine results in the overall timing increasing. 

As far as I know, all is correct here...

So what am I missing here?  Why won't it run right, and why on earth should I have to advance the timing so much- that can't be right, nor can it be good for it long term.

I really want to drive this thing, hopefully someone can offer me some advice. 



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When you find out why you timing marks are not giving you proper feed back do please let us know what the problem is

Feels like the crank pully is not in the right location or something has moved regarding it


This is theory;  Use an adjustable timing light. Unplug the vac advance and disable the mechanical advance with tape.

 Set the timing light to zero deg and see what the timing is at.   Then set the timing light to what the timing showed. With the engine running, the timing mark should be at zero.  If it is off, you will know by how far.  

Bring the idle speed up to where the car just rolls foward off a dead stop coming off the brake
That could help get you rolling smoother from a stop
To much idle and you will start to engage the trans torque converter that will be working againts your braking coming to a stop- not good

Did you modify the top of the intake for the Edelbrock 750 carb so the butterflys can open ?
750 is a bit larger carb than stock
Is that due to Jasons upgrade post on the subject ?

Try to figure out and correct the timing mark problem so we can get the timing set correctly

Recheck that the points are at 30 on the dwell at 500 RPMS
Raise the idle to 600 RPMS to allow for engaging the trans which will reduce it to 500 RPMS standing still

( Funny Clovis and i use the same timing and idle numbers for those settings )

Glad you got a feel for driving the car a bit
When all is right these cars are smooth performer with a feeling of a good bit of power under you ( its the torque these size engine put out)
Torque can be an additive feeling as it is so enjoyable to have available
For a car it delivers a good deal more torque than many other cars do

Are you using 91 to 94 octane gas only?

It has 93 octane fuel in it.  I even added a can of booster just because.

I used the Edelbrock 750 because it was for sale new in box locally for very cheap on craigslist.  According to the Edelbrock website, it was a good fit for the engine, and I didn't want to mess around with changing jets and spend a bunch of time tuning.  I hope to get the original carb running on the engine, as I assume it'd be proper.  So the Edelbrock is really kind of an expensive troubleshooting tool.

I only modified the intake as far as blocking the exhaust passages underneath the carburetor.

I did not modify the intake beyond that, I used an aluminum spacer to deal with the interference of the throttle valve.  It's not an ideal one either, as it's fully open rather than having four ports like the stock one.

The spacer will just move your power band up a bit I don't think it will do what is going on with your engine though.

Another thought, have you checked the exhaust heat riser to see if its opening all the way once it's heated up. Having an engine/car sit for so long could have allowed it to seize up and or stick partially closed.
Although you plugged the holes in the top of the intake under the csrb you are not concidering the fact that this intake has exhaust heat running thru it unlike many other cars
The metal is still -- very hot --under the carb and an aluminum spacer is only conducting the heat to the bottom of the carb - not good for the fuel bowl delivery

Proper gaskets and a backerlite spacer are required under the 750 carb you are using
They would be the same stock gasket arrangement as the stock Carter carb

Jason has the 750 Edebrock carb on his engine with the manifold holes closed off under the carb and did a write up on his installation that you should read on here
He had his carb on top of the manifold with no backerlite spacer and the car would not run right for him
He did reinstall a bakerlite spacer to get the car running as it should

Bottom line is your car should run better when you go back to the stock Carter carb
That could be a good part of why the car is not running better now

jason's carb and manifold thread is in the Help Pages on the home page header
Check it out as it applies directly to what you are doing with your intake

Real good point about the heat riser issue Big Clovis
I do think the aluminum ( metal ) spacer is part of the problem from my prior post with his current carb set up
Ok then




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