I had bought an aftermarket water pump and the opening at the top where the crossover pipe fits in is slightly off from where the original was. When I set the crossover pipe in place, it was wobbly loose against the heads. I had to double gasket where the crossover meets the heads to alleviate that issue.  A rubber o-ring is used to seal the crossover to the water pump. This was a poor design from the get go. I put sealer around the front of it, but found a leak on the back side. Can't get my finger back there to apply any. I ended up just squeezing some to the back side and used a screwdriver the best I could to smear it around. Held tight for about 200 miles and now it has a fine spray of a leak on the backside. I need to get this resolved before going on a long trip. Any suggestions from anyone else that had the same issue? I figure i need to spray a lot of  carb cleaner to clean the surface the best I can and add more sealant. Just getting to it is definitely going to be challenging. 63 Sedan DeVille.

Views: 372

Reply to This

Replies to This Discussion

Andy, the pump is junk. The hole is drilled wrong. Get a new water pump.

We all use 2 O rings and a small amount of sealant.  Too much will just be pushed down into the water pump.  Put the O rings into the water pump, then install the manifold.

Not what I wanted to hear, but I guess I needed to. Thanks. I only used 1 rubber o-ring. I pushed it onto the nipple of the crossover manifold, then set it in place. I don't recall from where I got the water pump off hand- guessing it was a remanufactured one? Any suggestions where I can get a replacement? I haven't begun to look yet. gotta let it sink in. if it's not one thing, then it's another. 

Even though doubling the gasket on both sides of the cross over manifold got rid of the shimmy wobble and made for a snug fit against the heads, it may be possible, then, to keep the water pump and just add the 2nd o-ring to the mix. It would be a lot less work and may resolve my issue. I thought there was simply an extra o-ring in the kit. Going from memory, it seems as if they may have been just ever so slightly different in size from one another.

Get the water pump with this design impeller. Cardone select at rock auto.
Attachments:
Oh no....

This is what I have from Rock Auto (Gates)
Attachments:
You can try to use a cooling system sealer called Alumaseal ( aluminum particles)
Using it for 40 years sometimes more than one with super results
It should fix the problem until you can get to it and possibly permanently
Would be a quick fix

Enjoy
Do take Russ's advice and get the pump that Clovis is recomending and all will be fine with you project
These guys know there stuff !

Enjoy
I just do not like the fact the WP does not line up with the water cross over in this case

Use two washers with a product called Permatex applied to them
From the auto store
It dries fast and will not leak
Used that combo on my last two water pumps with perfect results long term
My car is with me 50 plus years so thats the reason for requiring the two WPS


Enjoy

Tony- when you make reference to two washers with Permatex applied to them, are you referring to the rubber o-rings where the water pump and crossover manifold mate together?

Hi Andy,

I did this job last week and because I didn't look hard enough, I managed to crack the crossover assembly. Its easy to do, so steady freddy is the way to do it. I used 2 rubber O-rings and the blue permatex silicone sealer.

When I was doing up the 4 bolts in the cylinder heads, they went nearly all the way by hand and I hadn't applied much pressure when a very audible CRAAAAACK went off.

Make sure the crossover is sitting level and has gone all the way into the water pump.

I don't think crossing your fingers and toes will help.... but hell.... it can't hurt either.

Andy, you can try to use 2 O rings with the same water pump. Just be sure to set the O rings into the water pump cavity.  Use some RTV sealant sparingly around the O rings.  Too much and it will push into the water pump.   Let the completed assembly cure overnight before you add coolant.  That's the hard part, waiting.

You cam also try a standard home water hose washer with a little sealant. Let dry and use O ring and reassemble. Worked good for me

RSS

Photos

  • Add Photos
  • View All

Forum

Door jamb switches

Started by Jay Waters in 1963/64 Cadillac Specific Discussion. Last reply by Charles Fares 7 hours ago. 4 Replies

Anyone have a good set of door jamb courtesy light switches ? 2 or 4.What does the trunk light operate from ?Continue

wanted, '64 tilt turn signal switch WITH cornering contacts.

Started by john kilbourne in Wanted to Buy. Last reply by john kilbourne 17 hours ago. 2 Replies

I have the regulra one.Continue

Current 1963/64 Cadillac Listings on eBay

Started by Jason Edge in For Sale. Last reply by Jason Edge 18 hours ago. 0 Replies

To see all 1963/64 Cadillacs Listed on eBay in the USA…Continue

Tags: ebay

Blog Posts

Website

Posted by Fritz Seitz on August 11, 2020 at 2:35am 0 Comments

I have been working on a website-----www.fritzsautorepair.com-----

Does anyone have suggestions?

Electrical

Posted by Anthony Boles on August 8, 2020 at 5:46pm 5 Comments

My 1964 Cadillac electrical system is running around 17 volt which is to high,the alternator, battery and the voltage regulator was replaced but the voltage is still to high, could it be the pig tail that plugs into the voltage regulator. 

63 Caddy Horn

Posted by Robert Alan Shannon on May 27, 2020 at 9:25am 10 Comments

 Just noticed a 1963  Caddy trumpet horn on Ebay. No part # given but some of his other items are 1963 specific, just throwin this out there, I have no connection to this listing .

Wiring connection help.

Posted by Jimmy Davis on May 24, 2020 at 9:15pm 2 Comments

Can someone help me figure where these connections go? I have a 64 60 special if it matters.…



Continue

Videos

  • Add Videos
  • View All

© 2020   Created by Jason Edge.   Powered by

Badges  |  Report an Issue  |  Terms of Service