Would like some feedback regarding what you have found to be the safest spot to put your jackstands on a 1963 coupe. I have not gone under the car yet and am definitely feeling the fear of being crushed beneath this thing... I tried recently setting them up with the jack stands under the control arms and the car shifted and almost tipped over the stand. Would also like any feedback on back up safety methods. I bought some cinder blocks that I'm planning on putting beneath the car along with the jack stands and the jack as a third safety option. 

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You have a massive  steel boxed  frame under these cars 
Jack the car up with a hydraulic jack and lower the jack —on to the jack stands —on to the  steel boxed frame under the car and chock two wheels -  unless you are going to use 4 jack stands to raise the car all around to have all tires off the ground 

You can use the drive on to ramps — for some of the repairs that only require the front or back wheels to be off the ground

You can lower the tires on to cinder blocks but all the above depends on the type of repair you need to be doing and what you need to be accessing 

Methods are safe and designed to hold the weight of these heavy cars 

You will be safe when placing jack stands on the large steel frame 


The control arms are not the place to put jack stands and you could damage them 

The  front lower A frames and the rear end housing is also good to place  for jack stands in addition to the  very strong steel sub frame 

What type of a repair are you attempting to be doing ? 

I'm pulling the engine and transmission from a parts car so I can rebuild it and install in my fleetwood. I have not done this big of a project in the past so it's very new to me. It's hard to find any information on the proper points to put the jack stands under the frame. Know anywhere I can find pics of the proper jack stand ponts?

In your shop manual there are instructions. Check the picture on page 4-5. The shaded areas are for hoisting.

You can also search this site. This topic is not new at all.

You don't have a 1963 shop manual? Get it!




Here are few pictures from how I lift my car and put it on jack stands:


Btw, I searched for hoist. Found a thread about the weight of Jasons rear end... Or similar. Was a trivia question.

thanks a lot good information.

It is pretty much common sense ... any secure, stable area on the frame should be fine. You do not want to mount jack stands or lift with a jack under suspension items such as rear control links, front lower control arms, stabilizer bars, gas tank, floor board, rockers, or other body parts.  You can also lift beneath the rear end differential casing and cradle the rear end axle tubes in jack stands, but you can also use the boxed perimeter frame at the rear. 
Make sure you are on flat level ground and the jack stands are firmly centered.  I removed the complete front end on a parts car today and will head to the rear tomorrow and what I usally do for safety is get two jack stands set, push on the car to rock it to see that it is table and I will also leave the floor jack in place as a third area to provide support if needed, but never rely on the floor jack. You can get smaller to larger jack stands and I tend to use what I call medium size jack stands that provide a larger foot bring at bottom and larger cradle at top. When I am parting a car out I will run the jack stands up and down the frame, but will make sure they are firmly set before diving under the car. 

For general drive up mainteance where I don't need to remove the front wheels I love my "Race Ramps" pictured below. They are very light weight, but very strong and support a lot of weight (I also use with my 6000 lb Escalades), and you can remove the rear section of the drive up ramp giving you more access room underneath. The also come with the two wheel blocks. You can get 4 and drive the entire car up on the ramps but just use the two.  See picture below:

I bought a pair of ramps like this that I am using along with my jack stands and was finally able to get under the car and get started on prepping for the engine pull. I have a shop manual but have a hard time finding what I'm looking for and or understanding what it says because I am a novice and not a mechanic. Was trying to find out how to detach the prop/ drive shaft from the transmission. From what I can tell it just pulls away from the transmission. In order to pull the engine/ transmission as one do I need to remove the prop shaft?

See your 1963 Cadillac Shop Manual page 6-16, Section 13 Removal of Transmission from Car and note item 9: "Remove propeller shaft assembly. See Section 7, Note 10."

If you are removing the engine and transmission as an assembly you can just pull it forward and the from slip yoke will slide out but there is a chance you can damage that rear seal if it binds any when pulling out. I have always removed the driveshaft 1st, even when removing as an assembly as there are just two 1/2" hex bolts at center member and four 5/8" hex bolts at the rear at the pinion. Regardless look for a bit of fluid to come out, even if you think all the fluid has been drained from the transmission. 

Great thanks for the info. Will go ahead and remove the prop shaft.

Yes, the prop shaft needs to be removed.  The carrier bearing assembly is held to the frame by 2 bolts.  Look for the bolts at the bottom of the frame tunnel. 

The prop shaft should just slide out of the trans. 


make sure your wheels are chocked when you pull the shaft, if you're a novice mechanic.   If you remove the shaft, the transmission will no longer be in park, and it will be able to roll over you, possibly leading to your death.  It's best to have the rear wheels safely off the ground when removing



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