I currently have the original rochester in the car witch i have rebuilt several times. I was thinking about switching to a Edlebrock. I was wondering does the Edlebrock have better performance?

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     I have had both and clearly the Carter (Edelbrock) is easier to obtain parts for and it fine tuneable which is often necessary due to the ethanol fuel available today. The Rochester  sometimes can often offer a smoother idle .

     I personally would locate a used Carter AFB from a 62 to 65 Cadillac and rebuild it. The Edelbrock is fine but you have to adapt the TV rod plate if you running  the earlier Jetaway Trans and your stock airfilter will not fit without modifications . Cost wise you can buy a used correct AFB and rebuild it for much less than the price of the Edelbrock

I just rebuilt an AFB for my '65 Riviera and comparing it to the Rochester 4GC that is on my '64 Eldo (and was on my '63 Riviera) I'd opt for finding a used Carter AFB and rebuilding it.  IF you were willing to change to a '67 429 manifold and fit a later Rochester Quadrajet, that'd probably be better than the current Rochester, but then the stock air filter would not fit and you'd probably have to modify linkage.  The AFB is a good carb - just make sure to source the aluminum gasket shim plate to keep the exhaust crossover gases from corroding the aluminum AFB base.  

I have run both on my '61 CDV and '64 CDV and prefer the Edelbrock to be honest as it is easier to tune and seems to give a bit more performance and fuel economy.  I had a Rochester 4bbl professionally rebuilt less than a year ago and it lasted on my motor about 6 months before the ethanol became an issue and gas started flooding out of everywhere.  Mind you I drive my cars at least a day a week so I do not think ethanol breakdown was an issue but who knows?  Plus the Edelbrock looks really pretty with a chrome air cleaner and Offy valve covers but I suppose I am not the "it's gotta be absolutely stock or it's rubbish" kind of guy.  Either way, both your choices are quality made American products and do justice to these wonderful cars! Don't be afraid to tinker, this hobby is all about what YOU want!

Ethanol will eat rubber if the rebuild kit does not use Vitron needle rubber & ethanol resistant pump seals. Once a carb is set up properly you can later tear down, clean & replace soft parts in about an hour. The real work is setting up the floats, choke, secondary and fast idle linkages but once done it's not necessary to do it a second time. Most carbs I have rebuilt I've found previous "rebuilders" set all the adjustments wrong.

I figured the needle and seat got wiped out when I saw all of that 93 octane gas coming out the top of the carb like a volcano. I can try to find the Viton ones to replace what got destroyed since I paid good money to have the carb overhauled and it didn't even last a year. Lesson learned-if you have the time and money, do it yourself.  Normally that is the case with me but I wanted the carb hot tanked since the car had not been driven since 1979 but I sort of regret my decision now as I have to "unfix" it.

Pull the carb apart to comfirm your though on the needles and seats
You may have a float that is leaking gas into it ,and not floating ( drops to the bottom )
Fuel coming over the float bowl is a good sign the N&S need attention
The Carter carb was a brand new advanced design in 63 - 64
I had two of them on my 63 Chevy 409 - 425 HP
The carb is a very excellent performance carb ,used on high performance race engings today ,for it performance qualities ,easy to work on , rebuild and tune

Edelbrock bought the wrights to the carb ,and changed it slightly ( the carbs mouth is a bit larger ,600 cfm )
That is why the stock air cleaner will need an adapter to work
The carb has an electric choke ,which requires you pull off the intake manifold and plug the old choke tube holes
The chokes performance is still very poor ,and the best solution to this is to go with a manual choke for total control of the butterfly

I had to rejet the Edelbrook 600 CfM carb on my 64 429 as the car was running hot and lean (plugs whitish ) after installing the new carb
Carb adjustment ( after a rebuild ) SB done last after you know every other engine spec is on point
Best to use an expanded RPM meter ,to fine tune the two idle adjustment screws
No more future adjustments reqired

I am extremely happy about the way the new carb performs on my 64 Cadillac ,but there are a few issues to address as i have noted above

The stock choke tube can become a --fire hasard --when it cracks ,because it has high heat exhaust gasses in it ,and is close to the fuel supply
When it goes bad it will get noisie so watch for that
The new carb eliminates that issue ,by blocking off the choke tube at both ends

That my Carter Carb Story


I wish I would have read this two years ago when I searched, searched and searched some more for a pesky vacuum leak on my '61 CDV 390!  Lo and behold, there is a hole in the underside of the intake for the choke tube that absolutely NOBODY ever knew about at car shows, "old timers" get togethers, etc.  Of course, none of 'em ever had a Cad so their talk about flatheads, 409's, SBC and the like was interesting but left me scratching my head.  I have been working on Corvairs for 30 years but that was of no help at all.  Good to know of all the experience in the world of Cadillac and yes, after plugging that hole, putting an Edlebrock carb and TH400 trans and delicious Offy aluminum finned valve covers on the '61, she runs better than she did new...I hope.



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