Hi everybody, here's a weird one that has me stumped.  I recently switched clocks in my 63 for cosmetic reasons (neither works which is okay new one looks better).  The old one had both light and power wire hooked up, so I figured I'd do the same with the new one just because I like to cross my t's & dot my i's.  Here's where it gets weird:

When I hooked up power lead to new clock, the light came on even though it wasn't touching ground and headlight/parking light switch was off.  While the clock was still in my hand, I turned the parking lights on and the clock light went off.  When I tried to install it, it sparked out as soon as it touched the dash bezel.  I disconnected it and reconnected the old clock, it worked normally, light coming on only when parking/headlight switch was on and no shorting when it touched the dash.

After a few tries with nothing changing I decided to install the clock without the power lead connected.  As long as it's not connected, the light works normally - off when off and on when headlight switch is on.  But for the life of me I can't figure out what the deal is.  Doesn't matter since the clock is non functioning, just there because it looks better than old one...but I'm still curious.  

Anyone ever have this happen?  Thanks!

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@Mark - That makes sense, I'll bet that's what's happening.  I did check the rubber insulation around the positive power feed and it was perfect, so no short there...looking back wish I had paid more attention during those high school electrical shop classes!

I think my comprehension level is in the dumps these days. I read new clock as literally a new clock or at least an original converted to quartz! Kurt and Mark are spot on with the idea that the contact may be staying closed if you have a "new" original clock with the original electro-mechanical mechanism. My bad.

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