It appears the only way to replace the Cornering Lights bulbs is to remove the entire bulb housing (in front of the front wheel wells).  Is this correct?  Or is there a better way?

Mike Vogler

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Nice and bright! Congrats on the repair.

Looking good and bright 

14 screws never got so much attention 



Because I just can't bear to say good bye to this post, and rather than catching my car on fire, I'll continue the thread!  My passengers side bulb is not illuminating.

I have current to the bulb socket, (my 12v tester shows current).  My bulb is good (I tested that too with a direct connection to the car's 12v battery.)

I tried the foil square thing that Tony recommended but was unsuccessful (foil kept falling). 

So, I decided to I solder a small drop of solder on the pos dot on the bottom of the bulb to fill any gap. Although I'm sure now there is pos contact with the spring tab now, the bulb still is not going on.

So...that leaves a negative contact problem. I tried wrapping the bulb in a small fold of foil.  That didn't work.  I tried sliding a small bit of copper wire down the side of the bulb for contact with the neg on the socket.  That didn't work either.  

I used a pair of pliers and very slightly squeezed the bayonet a little tighter.  No luck.  

I'm thinking of running a small bead of solder down the neg length of the bulb to fill what seems to be a contact gap on the neg side.  Any thoughts?  (Seems like a lot of effort for a bulb!)



I know you said you have 12V at the socket but are you now checking it with the headlights or at least parking lights, I believe, on? That's the only time the cornering lamps operate.

Yes.  Headlights and right blinker are on.

Michael, A couple of things:

1st: Are you sure the cornering light fixture is grounded?  The 5/16" studs, washers and nuts where it bolts to the upper outer bumper ends get corroded and can lose metal to metal contact.  You can do a cornering light fixture to upper bumper end (or any other ground point such as frame or negative battery post for that matter) continuity test to make sure it is grounded.  If there is not ground from that light fixture you will have not light. You can sometimes just tighten the nuts from the underside to makes sure the metal is digging in and touching. You can also back out and use new external tooth or other type lock washer under nut.

2nd: The spring that pushes the center tip of hot wire up to bottom of bulb contact has to be working and the wire needs to be able to slide in and out. I have never found adding metal (i.e. solder, etc), works since with the bayonet base bulbs, when you push in turn and release they move back up a bit as the seat in the bulb base slot. If they do work it will be intermittent. That spring needs to keep constantly pressure pushing the wire tip up against the bulb. What I have done to unfreeze these springs is to disconnect battery and take a needle nose and spray spring and wire back and forth to loosen up the wire as it slides through the back of the bulb base. You can also push from the back side, also. There is a curved metal clamp that is covers the orange hot wire. That clamp has a Phillips screw holding it in place. Remove that screw and you will have better access to the hot feed wire with the spring and tip.

Hope that helps. 

Epilog.  Got it!  Isolated positive, isolated negative, and tested.  As Jason predicted, the problem was the positive spring contact.  A little WD40 and some working with a screwdriver to free up the spring, and we’re back in business with both cornering lights!  Thank you, Jason for all your advice.

Congrats on the final fix!



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