Hey guys.

Im going to be pulling my engine and tranny out soon. Theres some leaks on my engine and tranny. The main reason for this is because i need to paint the engine and engine bay. So i might as well go through everything and replace all gaskets and seals. Im going to be pulling most of the parts off the engine to sandblast and paint. Im pretty new here and was wondering if anyone has a parts list of what i would need. I would want to change front and rear mains seals, valve cover, oil pan seals, etc. If some can help me out with what i will need and maybe what site you guys order off of. That would be appreciated. 

Btw i have 1963 deville series 62. Not sure what transmission it has in it. I have posted pictures of the gear selector since i read on here you can identify tranny from that. I have also posted pictures of the engine so you guys know what im dealing with. LOL. 

Thanks alot guys!

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165-185 is the range, but it does state that the throttle needs to be open.

Damn!! I thought a missed a step. Oh well i guess i can just go through it one more time. Ill just take one reading this time per cylinder.

Easiest way is to have someone at ignition switch to crank over and pressing accelerator pedal to the floor as you watch the gauge.  Be sure to turn over a few times until the compression gauge check valve maxes out. Usually just a few revolutions.

If the engine hasn't been ran in a while you could have stuck rings. 

Yeah this engine is fine runs good. Car gets driven in the summer and started in the winter.

The fact that they are all low but reading at the very same level may indicate a vacuum leak rather than worn rings (hopefully anyway).I had a 390 that gave me a similar low reading and seemed to run ok but when I looked deeper, the choke tube and outlet on the bakelite carb base gasket were broken which created a vacuum leak large enough to affect the compression.  I fixed those two items and the compression shot right back up to 170.  Needless to say she ran much better as well!

When you did your test, the the gauge shoot right up over 100 on the first stroke and then slowly reach 110-120 as you cycled through 2-3 more strokes or was your first stroke around 50-60?  

Hi Michele, how did your vacuum leak effect the compression? I'm just trying to figure this out in my head and can't see how it effects it. Thanks

Engine vacuum should not affect it. I've tested engines out of the car with every vacuum line disconnected and open and gotten good vac readings. There are plenty of websites that list causes of low compression and vacuum leaks is not showing up on my radar. Click Here for one site. Click Here for another.  For us it is usually going to be worn our rings, cylinder walls and valves.

Compression and Vacuum

I may have been mixed up a little, seems it is the other way around.  Compression affects vacuum.  Oops, too many leaded fuel fumes....

Should have said bad head gasket or worn timing chain allowing low compression, sorry lads.

The compression gauge part of the post was accurate though, the needle should shoot up significantly on the first stroke and rise a bit on each subsequent stroke.

Easy mistake and correct on the gauge description. There are good examples showing compression readings on YouTube as the engine is turned a few revolutions.

I did another test today with the throttle all the way opened. Results were similar maybe like 5-10psi difference. I really didnt want to rebuild the engine but i dont know what to do now. The engine is original. The highest cylinder reading was 130psi. 

Did you pull all the plugs before the test? 

You can do a down and dirty rering and with a quick touch up with home to get a cross hatch. Making sure there is no ridge at the top of the cylinder. If no ridge or very little then that's a good sign that you could do this. 

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