For the engine ticking, add Marvel mystery il, or Lucas oil treatment. It helps the lifters.
For the vibration, it sounds like you have most of the bases covered. Try having the wheels balanced on the car. A rim may be out of specs.
Next is the transmission tail cone bushing. Have it replaced, as it probably has over 100K miles on it. The drive shaft could be moving around in there, causing the vibration.
Third, is the drive shaft tail section. It was designed in 2 pieces to telescope. It may be bad. Ask your local drive shaft shop about a replacement.
Clovis, I have a similar problem with a vibration in my 64. I also had a lifter tick that sounded bad, but I changed the oil again as it got diluted with gas from a leaky fuel pump. I added 0W40 Mobil 1 with a half of bottle of Rislone Zinc additive, and the ticking has gone away. Sometimes it'll make noise upon start up, but it usually disappears quickly and the noise isn't nearly as loud as it was before. So changing your oil is definitely a start, I would use a thicker oil just for the added cushion is gives.
I am going to try to adjust the flexplate and see if that helps cut down or eliminate the vibration as I see no cracks or warping on mine. If nothing changes or improvements are made, then I will look at the harmonic balancer next and if worst comes to worst, the tranny will need to be removed and inspected to see what is going on.
But from what a lot shops have told me lately, the flywheel/flexplate is usually the culprit on cars that have a unique feeling vibration, especially when it gets worse upon revving the engine..A tiny hairline crack, even a slightly warped flywheel will cause a bad vibration. This is why buying used ones are a hit and miss and very costly.
Also before I forget to ask, does the vibration occur if you rev the engine in park, or only while you're driving?
I'll let you know what I find out with my Cad.
It sounds like the vibration is in the engine/trans for sure, since the vibration happens when your in neutral and rev the engine.
I did think of this, as I saw a video of differential pinion angle flex, due to worn bushings in the rear control links and control yolk.
The worn bushings will cause the differential to pivot, changing the pinion angle. A worn spherical joint would probably cause flex too.
Clovis, How many miles since engine rebuild? Are you sure you don't have a bad harmonic balancer? While driving these cars, bad vibration is most often caused by worn out rear CV Joints on the rear driveshaft. Remove the driveshaft from the car and if you can turn the rear CV joints and it just sort of flops around they are worn out and will cause vibration. If they give a hard snap action when rotating by hand they are probably good.
Back to the engine rebuild, are you sure it was done correctly? Heads with rocker assembly installed in correct position so oil is getting to top of engine? A rebuild can be a good thing or bad thing...in fact it can be a very bad thing if not done right. Have you put a vacuum gauge on intake vacuum and observed characteristics? Vac advance on the distributor working... or leaking down. Is it original... if so how many miles on it. How about other easy to replaced ignition components such as the coil, distributor cap, condenser, plug wires? Compression test on the cylinders? What temps are you getting with a Temp Gun? What is your oil pressure at idle...at cruising? With all the issues at hand, you probably need to move beyond the speculating phase and get some accurate reads on vacuum, compression, temps, timing, oil pressure, etc. As far as oil, you should be able to throw 30 weight lawn mower oil in there and it run pretty decent if everything else is good.
Does the distributor vacuum advance work or leak down? That would cause a lot of your rough running and other issues, especially having to maybe advance engine timing. Vacuum advance readings with a gauge? There are videos on YouTube that you can compare how your vacuum needle jumps around (or not) to help gauge the health of the engine. 150 to 167 is not bad compression..not like a fresh rebuild with good compression but not bad if you get this across all 8. Ignition coils are a few bucks. A distributor will run you a couple hundred but as the heart of your ignition can again go along way to solving a lot of problems. I easily shelled out $1000 on mine between carb, intake mods, Pertronix, new wires, etc, only to finally get it running right and dialed in to factory timing once I had a rebuild distributor.
The bottom line is regardless if you get that pertronix ignition box and flamethrower coil it is still relying on your distributor's vacuum advance to provide advance at high vacuum/low rpm/idle/coasting situations, while it depends on the distributor centrifugal advance to correctly adjust the advance out to up to 10+ additional degrees in high rpm/WOT conditions. Think of your vacuum advance, centrifugal advance, and distributor with it's rotor and cap all being a symphony of components and if any of these are bad you will get noise instead of the sweet sound of an engine that purrs! In other words if you have a worn out distributor with busted/leaking vacuum advance or worn out centrifugal advance weight and springs, you might as well tape a couple hundred bucks to a garbage can and hope that will fix everything. I tried that by throwing pertronix on my tired old 150K mile distributor with vac advance leaking down and worn out centrifugal advance and distributor bearings and shaft, it might have made the car run a tad better, but it did not fix the underlying problem.