I will post some tips here as I think of them about my FITECH installation and some pitfalls to avoid. There will be no particular order to this I will just type in as I thinks of things.

I ordered a 600hp setup thinking I was going to use the available timing control with that model that wasn't available with the 400hp model. We can not use timing control with pertronix ignitions. You need an aftermarket distributor, such as a MSD, that has the proper pickup to work with the Fitech's system. As far as I know there is no such distributor for our engines. The other reason you want the 400hp system is that it has the ability to increase rpm's and turn on electric fans when you switch on the a/c system. The 600 does not have this ability.

Our engines idle at 480 rpm's. This will not work that great with the FItech as it is so low of a rpm that it thinks it's the starter cranking the engine over and does certain things until it's at running rpm's. I currently set mine at 650 rpm's but I may lower it as I get more used to it.

The engine needs to get to 160 degrees or it will think it's not warmed up and it will run slightly rich with a higher rpm as any cold engine would run. I did so many mods to my cooling system that now it works two good with the cooler weather.

There can be NO exhaust leaks or the computer will think the car is running lean because fresh air is diluting the exhaust not giving the proper air/fuel ratios. So the computer tries to add more fuel to richen it up and if the leak is bad enough it will foul plugs.

You MUST set your throttle position manually to, one, get a zero position on the throttle sensor and two, adjust for the proper AIC steps at a warm idle. They need to be manually calibrated at the injector unit to 3-10 AIC. You can not run this system without setting this up manually at the injection unit. Once that is done you can move on to other set up requirements.

If you are not running electric fans you MUST turn them off in the computer of it will give you a fault and mess with your system.

The fuel command system is by far the easiest to install to feed fuel to the fuel injection unit. I recommend a clear plastic fuel filter between the low pressure engine fuel pump and the command centre. This will allow you to see if your engine pump is working properly. This has led to many set up problems for others as they did not realize that they had a problem with the low pressure pump and the high pressure was starving. This is immediately seen with a clear plastic filter as it will be full of air not gas.

Intakes. The FiTech has four equal sized throttles that all open and close in unison. The front openings on our intakes are too small to to fit these throttles. There are several routes to take to remedy this. One you can purchase an open or equal hole sized spacer, I'm not a big fan of this as it really isn't great for flow. You will also have to purchase a spacer to make the original breather work if your looking to retain some originality to the engine compartment and that will be getting it close to the hood. Two you can open up the front ports of the intake with a domore/grinder or three do as I did and turned my intake into an RPM air gap (edelbrock) style intake to let that thing breathe. I also radiused to the turns and cleaned up the bottom of the runners whole I was there. You also need to block the exhaust cross overs in the intake with steel shim stock and plug the passages in the intake. These are no longer needed and that heat will just be a killer under that unit. I also removed my exhaust heat riser with a blank that I had water jetted to the same dimensions as the original. This is not needed and is again just a bottle neck for flow.

That's it for today more to come

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Golden knowledge Clovis.

Here are the set up instructions I downloaded from Fitech's website.

Fitech Basic Setup and tuning instructions

These are a basic overview of the most common setup questions.
Resetting to a stock calibration:
From the main menu go to the very bottom and select Write Cal To ECU. Once in this menu scroll down to the second to last selection, it should say Default v8 T195. Once on this file select it and it will download to 100 percent. After this is done it will revert to the main menu. Now go to Go EFI Initial Setup, then Engine Setup, now input all of the parameters that are needed for your application, making sure to save each one individually.
After you have entered your information and saved it go up and select Dash Board. Once in dashboard turn the ignition key off and wait for all the data to black out. Once this happens turn the ignition key to the on positon and start the car.

IAC Steps:
Turn the driver’s side throttle adjustment screw IN (clockwise) half a turn to start with, with that done turn the key on and go to dashboard and find TPS and make sure it reads zero. If not, then shut the key off and wait for the numbers to go black then turn the key on again. Once that reads zero start the vehicle and find IAC Steps on dashboard. This number needs to be within 3-10 at warm idle. If the number reads zero then slowly turn the screw OUT (counter clockwise) until the IAC steps reads between 3-10. If the number is above 10 then shut the vehicle off and turn the screw IN as stated above and repeat the process until the IAC steps are between 3-10.

Reset Learn:
All Fitech EFI systems have learning procedures that the system uses to adjust the active fuel tables it is using for operation. Sometimes if there are outside problems such as bad misfires, exhaust leaks, or any other situation that could cause poor readings on the O2 sensor, the system will try to compensate in order to keep the car running. If this happens it alters the fuel map in ways that may not be optimal for proper running the engine normally.
To reset the learn is a very easy procedure. Go into the Go EFI Initial setup then find Reset Learn. Once in that menu find Reset All Learn, highlight this and push right on the joy stick to go to #1, then save that to the ECU by pressing IN on the joystick. Once that is saved go back to the main menu, and then up to Dashboard and select it. Once on dashboard turn the key off and wait for the numbers in the value side to go black. This mean the system has saved. You have now reset the learn function.

Data Logging:
Data logging is a useful tool for diagnoses and tuning. It allows you to check how the many functions the system can read and go through them point by point. This allows for exact adjustments to be made
When the vehicle is running go onto the dashboard screen and press the joystick on the right of the screen IN and a message will pop up saying Data Log On. Now you will drive the car and get it to have the issue you are having. Once you finish the drive you will press the button again and this will save the data log. Then you can turn the vehicle off and wait 15 seconds for the data on the dashboard to go black. Once this happens you can take the handheld to your PC and plug in the USB cable and handheld. The handheld will light up with three menu options, USB mass storage is at the top, select this. You should see a prompt on your PC to open the handheld folder, if not go to My Computer and you should see a removable drive, select it. Once the handheld folders come up on screen find the folder labeled log_file. Select this folder and inside you should see several files inside that say Dashboard, you can click on these and they will bring up an Excel file showing the data you have recorded. You can also copy and paste these files and send them to our technicians to look at as well.

Save your current settings and tune:
To save a tune first turn the key to the On position, not running. Then find Read Cal from ECU on the main menu. Then select it, once in this menu highlight one of the backup files you wish to save to and then either press OK on the screen or push the joystick IN and it will save all your current settings and parameters.

Cranking fuel adjustments:
With the key on go to the Go EFI Tuning menu, find Crank and Warm up. There you will see three cranking fuel selections. For cold starts add or subtract fuel from Crank fuel 65f, for hot starts add or subtract fuel from crank fuel 170f. Changing these settings should help with your start up issues along with setting the IAC. A good starting point is to change the settings in intervals of 10 to find which way you need to adjust the system to work better.

Accel pump/ Fast Accel adjustment:
If the system is having a hesitation or bogging issue, and you IAC steps are between 3-10 at warm idle, then your next step would be to adjust the accel pump function to increase or decrease the fuel added on acceleration. To start with turn the key to the on position and then find Go EFI Tuning on the main menu and press enter. Then find Accel pump and press enter. You will see a menu with multiple different settings, you need to focus on the Accel pumps (20f, 65f, 170f) and Fast Accel (20f, 65f, 170f). These setting adjust how much fuel, at varying temperatures, the system injects when you accelerate. Accel pump is used for any normal throttle input, Fast Accel is for any fast throttle inputs or Wide Open Throttle.
Hesitation: If the vehicle has a hesitation (when you step on the throttle and the engine does hangs and/ or almost dies and then suddenly take off) this normally is a lack of fuel so you would fix this by increasing the Accel Pump (for normal throttle input hesitations) or Fast Accel (for fast throttle or WOT inputs). You would make changes starting in increments of 10, to the temp range that you are finding the issue to reside in.
Bogging/engine loads up/slow to respond: If the vehicle is bogging (when you step on the throttle and the engine is slower/sluggish to come up to a higher rpm) this is normally caused by over fueling. To fix this you would need to reduce the amount of fuel it is injecting as an accel pump shot. To do this this decrease the Accel Pump (for normal throttle input hesitations) or Fast Accel (for fast throttle or WOT inputs). You would make changes starting in increments of 10, to the temp range that you are finding the issue to reside in.

Decel Fuel Cut Off:
When you let off throttle and decel with your vehicle the EFI will reduce fueling to prevent popping and an over rich condition that would occur if the fueling continued as it normally would. Depending on the size of your engine, camshaft specs, engine temp, gearing, and several other factors like environmental conditions, you may have either too much or too little fuel cut on decel.
In order to change the amount of fuel it applies you must go to Go EFI Tuning and then find Fuel Cut Control. Inside this menu you will see an option called DFCO Return fuel, this number represents the amount of fuel the system will inject when it you start to give the vehicle throttle again. If you are having a hesitation when getting back in the throttle then add to the DFCO Return fuel to give the engine more fuel when transitioning back to acceleration. You may also need to adjust your accel pump settings to help with this transition as well.

Choosing a cam selection:
Cam selection is based on vacuum load of the engine. Cam 1 is for 15Hg or above, Cam 2 is for 10Hg to 15hg, Cam 3 is 8Hg to 10Hg, Cam 4 is 8Hg to 6Hg. These are estimates and you may need to switch between them if the vacuum load is between two different cam settings to get the engine to run better for your application.

Idle Return:
If the engine is not returning to idle quick enough for your liking or is dropping too quickly and killing the engine then you may need to adjust the rate at which the injection system comes to an idle. To do so you need to go to Go EFI Tuning, then find and select Idle Control. Once in this menu you will see several settings, the only one we are going to work with is Decel open IAC. This number should be at zero as a base setting, by going negative you are reducing the amount of time it takes to return to Idle, and by going positive you are increasing the time it takes. Normal procedure of adjustment is to add or subtract 10 to start with and then adjust it to your liking or what the engine needs. Then once the setting is input save it to the ecu by pushing the joystick IN, the handheld will show Send To ECU Successful. Once this is done make sure to go back to the dashboard and turn the key off until the numbers clear out on the value side. This shows that the system has saved.

AFR Target Adjustment:
AFR: Air Fuel Ratio. Some vehicles may have greater needs for fueling that the self-learn may not be able to adjust in a great enough amount to operate correctly right out of the box. The injection unit is always trying to maintain a targeted AFR throughout its operation. It is either adding or taking away fuel at any given time from its current fuel table in order to do this. The AFR target is what the computer is constantly adjusting for (the higher the number the more lean the mixture, the lower the number the more rich the mixture is), but some engines need different fueling depending on the CID and cam they have. To adjust these numbers you must go to our Go EFI Tuning menu then to AFR targets, typically adjusting any AFR target should be done .01 at a time either up or down as the AFR has drastic effects on how the engine runs.
Once in this menu you will see 10 settings you can adjust. Number 1 is for Idle AFR which can range from 13.4 to 14.7 on average depending on the engine. Adjusting this setting will help idle quality and takeoff from an idle. The 1100, 3000, 6000 at 45kpa cruise are your cruising AFR ratios, these can vary from 13.8 to 14.7 on average depending on the engines needs and your desired fuel economy. The cruise AFR only effects cruise so it will not affect your acceleration or other AFR settings. WOT 1100, 3000, 6000 are your acceleration enrichment settings and are used for adjusting the desired fueling for accelerating under either part throttle or WOT. The average for these settings only ranges from 12.4 to 12.7, any accelerator needs beyond that will require one of our technicians to go over with you. Boost 1100, 3000, 6000 180kpa should stay within 11.5 to 11.7 on most engines with boost, any further adjustments to your boosted AFR settings should be brought up with one of our technicians.
When using FItechs command fuel pump you need to adjust the pulse width modulation. Here is how it's done from FItechs website.

Setting the Fuel Pump Pulse Width Modulation
Did you know that you can control the pulse width modulation (speed) of your fuel pump with your hand held controller? Your system comes shipped with the fuel pump control pwm set for frame mounted pumps. If you are using a fuel command center (fcc) you should change the speed of the pump. To do this follow these steps:

Step 1: plug your handheld controller into the ECU on the FiTech Throttle Body, turn your key to the power system, but do not crank.

Step 2: go to main menu, scroll down to option 4: Go EFI Initial set-up, click the joystick to enter.

Step 3: go under option 1: engine setup. Then, scroll down to option 6 (pump PWM/FCC) and select edit, press clear (CLR) and enter a new value. The lower the number the slower the pump will run. If you have a Fuel Command Center the best value to set this feature to is 40. Press ok, then in the fuel pump control menu press the center of the control stick to send the change to ECU.

Step:4 Lastly, turn the key off and wait 15 seconds for the system to power down (the screen will flash black) once this is complete you may now start the engine and verify your change.
This is where I mounted my command center fuel pump

And if you collide, will there be an increased risk of fire?

Absolutely there is an increased risk of fire. But is is WAY outside of the passengers compartment and unlike an in tank pump which will empty the tank to the ground this will only have a small amount of fuel in comparison.


Russ suggested a Fuel Pump Controller if using an electrical pump. Its a good idea to avoid fires if in a collision.

Here is the clear plastic fuel filter.

Whats the white two-nipple thingy on your radiator hose?

And yes, I reacted on the "two-nipple" as well. The mind started to drift...  ;-)

The two nipple thingy is a thermal switch. I'm still in the process of installing a charcoal canister to capture any errant fuel vapors. My car will be near zero evaporative emissions after the install. I can do another thread on this if there is some interest.

Yes please. Anything that will enlighten.

O2 sensor.

I mounted my O2 sensor behind the masticated rubber in the drivers side wheel well. The Y-pipe turns right there and it's very easy access when you remove the left front wheel and rubber shield. This puts the sensor in a near vertical position and in the path of both engine sides exhaust flows. This is not required to run the system but it worked out that way for my car. The O2 sensor can not be installed in a horizontal or downward position. If it is it will ruin the sensor from the water in the exhaust. (Condensate) After lying on my back under the car for 30 minutes trying to find the best way to drill a hole in my exhaust in an off horizontal position I realized that the wheel well was the most logical and easiest spot to put it.



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