I have been finding it difficult to find a shop that can do an alignment on my 64 SDV. The alignment heads that attach to the rear wheels come too close or touch the body. I have been to 4 shops so far. Will be going to Duty Tire as Jason suggested but I wanted to see if anyone has had this experience or can shed any light.
Short history of the work that I have done is replace upper lower ball joints, stab links, and control arm bushings. The brakes have been totally redone-everything, and have been adjusted a number of times.
The car seems to ride straight maybe a slight wander to the right when steering wheel is let go. When the brakes are applied car pulls to the left, I guess for lack of a better description at a medium intensity. I have adjusted the brakes per manual a few times.
Thanks
George
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Changed the original Pleasuriser front shocks out today with Gabriel classics, could not find pleasurisers for the front (did find some for the rear). That did not correct the pulling to the left. Shocks needed replacing anyway (52 years old) rubber bushings seen better days. So i'm going to do the strut bushings next, got some from Kanter and did also find one original NOS, couldn't put myself to pop 100 on the rare parts bushings although I'm sure they are good. I have a feeling the eccentric needs to be set right, but we'll see......
Thats good to know about the eccentric, so I can focus on the brakes. At speed the car does not wander much at all I would say pretty much none. All the bake parts are new. Guess I gotta pull out the magnifying glass. I'm still going to do the strut rod bushngs since I got the parts in.
If the car's front end has been aligned, the eccentrics have already been set to dial in the Camber (top of wheel tilt). Likewise, any front end shop should suggest (and require) new tie strut bushings if there is any doubt in their integrity before they are used to set Caster (ball joint angle). After you install new tie-strut bushings you will want to do another front end alignment. Keep in mind out of caster from bad tie struts can also make car pull.
Here are the basic alignment specs from or Help Page:
Camber for both bias ply and radials: left 0° and right =1/4°
Caster: bias ply -1°; radials: +2°
toe in: bias ply 3/16" to 1/4" ; radials no more than 1/8"
In addition to camber and caster making the car pull to one side there are other causes listed on Page 4-1 in the shop manual which I have posted at the bottom. The wheel bearing adjusted to tight would be one I would note if you have recently replaced bearings.
And of course the picture on page 4-6 is a great visual showing how the Ti Strut adjustment pulls the Caster in and out.
There is a notation in the shop manual front end alignment section stating you must loosen the strut rod to lower control arm attachment bolts before adjustment of the caster. This allows the strut rod and bushings to remain centered in the front crossmember hole. By not following that procedure, will result in premature wear of the strut rod bushing.
ALL of the bolt loosen and tighten sequencing on pg 4-6, Section 3.c needs to be followed exactly. After bolts at lower suspension (control) arm are loosened, and the caster is adjusted, you would tight bolts at lower control arms to 35 ft/lb, then while holding rear nut at front frame cross member, torque front nut to 35 ft/lb as to not disturb caster. Then recheck caster.
When adjusting the caster, it states that for negative caster, lengthen tie strut by loosening front lock nut AND tightening rear lock nut. Turning each nut as noted in sequence one turn will result in about 1/2 degree change in caster. For positive caster you would do the reverse, shorten the tie strut by loosening the rear lock nut and tightening the front nut.
These are the types of instructions where if you get in a hurry and skip over the details and just go through the motions you may end off worse than when you started.
Back to my original point, however, I wouldn't even worry with adjusting Caster if I knew I had old worn our bushings. Get the new ones in stalled first before doing the front end alignment. As noted in the shop manual it will not really affect tire wear, but is listed as a cause for the car pulling to one side, and from personal experience know a really worn out busted tie strut bushing can cause vibration.
George
after you get all your front end parts replaced if you still have an issue,I have come accross a couple of instances where the brake hoses have caused a pull to one side. some times brake hose collapse inside causing one side to get less brake pressure than the other resulting in a pulling condition. looking at the hose on the outside usually shows no issue because the problem is inside.If your hoses have a lot of mile on them they may be the problem.
maurice
All the brake parts are new hoses everything except spring retaining pin 1100 (the short one). I actually had a collapsed hose on another car recently. Even though the mechanic said he thought it was steering related, I'm not so sure...maybe the right cylinder or the self adjusting parts are not operating properly. I'll raise the car rotate both wheels step on brakes and see the reaction purely from just braking to see if the rt cylinder is not functioning. Then I'll take the drums off and take another closer look.
When I'm driving even at low speeds 10 mph when the brakes are applied it immediately and uniformally goes left and I have to turn the wheel to the right to compensate.
"When I'm driving even at low speeds 10 mph when the brakes are applied it immediately and uniformally goes left and I have to turn the wheel to the right to compensate."
That indicates that left brake pads are touching the left brake drum a tad bit before the right. And its therefore most likely only correct adjustment needed. If self adjuster are working then you might have to drive reverse a few times...
Try bleeding the front brakes. there may be air in the right wheel cylinder.
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