Am removing the front cover on our 64 engine with AC. Have all 6 bolts that hold the pulley onto the damper removed, can wiggle the pulley BUT it will not come fully off the damper, Is there something other than dirt and rust that keeps the pulley from fully coming off?
Mission accomplished here looks like
Next step is getting to get the front cover off. All to get to a broken water pump bolt that is stuck in the block.
So the oil pump comes off in the front cover right?
Lost my timing mark, line up a bit, when removing the damper, will want to get that back latter.
May change the timing gears and chain with the cover off anyway.
QUESTION -- Do all the caddy cranks have a metal sleeve over its front end?
Remove the distributor and fuel pump. Take the 2 front studs out of the oil pan also. Not sure what you mean by a metal sleeve. The balancer comes off and that exposes the crank end.
At the front end of the crank shaft the surface is a shiny brass colored finish. Take a look at the photo i posted yesterday at IMG 1353 JPG. IT looks like a "sleeve" over the crank end?Also if you look closely, beyond the blue paint,where the keyway is, the diameter is the same as the front end, also shiny brass colored.
And both of our cylindrical surfaces look just fine.
Will get to actually removing the front cover Monday. Fuel pump is off, left the oil pump on/in the cover, left the new water pump on the front cover, will back out the two studs, remove the bolts holding the cover to the block and the cover should come right off! leaving the broken water pump bolt sticking out. Finally .
If you do need a new timing chain and gears you will be experiencing a whole new level of smooth power and performance from your engine
Those parts are truly the heart of the engines valve timing and performance
If anyone has a need to be replacing the water pump with an engine approaching 100,000 miles I would highly recommend that you go into the front engine cover to replace these parts as you are already half way there
The oil pump gears SB examined for wear and 63 can be upgrades to the 64 pump parts
Any scoring in the pump needs to be addressed
The end results in back to new engine performance will make you a happy camper
In these years 100,000 miles or so was as long as you expected these engines to be lasting before needing some overhauling ( no CNC machining available then )
See Jason’s video about drilling out broken bolts in the block and that will it get done
An area that many have issues with leaking after the WP install is the seal between the top of the water pump and and the water cross over tube
Do use special care in that area as you only know you have a leak when the job is completed and you are adding coolant back into the car as one of the very last steps
A leak then is very disappointing
I use two washers there and Permatex fast drying sealant on them and never had a leak in that place
A coolant sealer can work as well if needed —and a coolant sealer and water pump lube are always to be used in the coolant per the manual
One of the better things you can do to be enjoying Like new engine performance from you pride and joy
These are not repair you would choose to do twice if you have a choice
It will be necessary to check —the impeller placement of the new water pump on its shaft depending on the brand used
There was a bad run of new water pumps coming out of the box for a while that would make the engine run hot when installed and require that the repair be done a second time ( god no ! )
The info is documented on this site
A few tip that should help the repair get done correctly and save some agro !!
Keep thinking it not the repairs required to keep our cars running well ( often very frustrating ) that make ownership the great FUN thing it is — but getting these cars out on the road to enjoy the joy they bring to your life and many of those you encounter along the way
We are a special breed to be doing this stuff !!!
Do take the time to get a service manual for your year Cadillac
Everyone need this who owns and works on one of our cars
It will be one of the best possible tools to aid you in your repairs when ever needed and then there is this great site
Our Cadillac manuals are very high quality with outstanding detail repair instructions and all important specs
Very great reference material
The manual can be found here and on eBay ( $ 30- 40)
Can give it to your mechanic it if that applies —so both you and him know what the repair requires he is doing ( that is if he can read —-LOL ! )
Already have the manual for the 64 and our 62 Deville' and find them to be very helpful.
Have also found that asking questions from those who have already done work on these old Cadillacs to be extremely helpful as well. Been spending time to learn on the 64 first with the 62 to be latter.
Jason been a source for many parts as needed. Rest from various sources.
Thx for the advice
The 64 and 62 have been my own personal favorite Classic Antique Cadillac of all time myself
Both were convertibles with air
We were lucky enough to find the 62 as a convertible as well as the 64.
The 62 is totally original ,in storage since 78. We bought it year ago. Currently have it in a garage and hope to get to it once this 64 is driveable. 62 is olympic white,ac, soft ray glass,power windows, power vent windows,remote trunk lock,6 way power front seat,white power top,maroon interior(29).
The 62' body is very straight, paint is very very dull (not good) yet rust free. Has rusted inner rail on both sides under where the top well caught water. Needs some exterior metal just outside the inner rail areas-very low under the boat feature.
Hopefully we can get this 64 broken water pump bolt problem solved soon, so it can be driven and then get to the 62 convertible as it will need lots of time to get it to a nice condition.