Am removing the front cover on our 64 engine with AC. Have all 6 bolts that hold the pulley onto the damper removed, can wiggle the pulley BUT it will not come fully off the damper, Is there something other than dirt and rust that keeps the pulley from fully coming off?

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See Jason video on  engine broken bolt removal 

The key is the correct kind of drill bit and a set of E-Z Out tools will get it done 

Once the center of the bolt is drilled out it releases the bolt easily 

A good chance once the cover is removed you can grab the end of the bolt showing with a large Vic grips 

The two of your restoration projects sound sweet to me 

Enjoy 

I am removing the front cover so I can see --  and get to a length of the bolt equivalent to the width of the front cover. Looking to getting a vice grip or pipe wrench onto the remnants of the bolt.

Decided to take off the front cover rather than risk drilling into the bolt tip and accidently drilling the ALUMINUM front cover.

Tom

These two cadillacs are challenging ok--since this my first time working on these 63 & 62 vintage caddies

So, I finally got the front cover of the 64 engine off.

Here is what I found.

 Whoever changed the timing chain/gears and water pump years ago--must have had a problem with the threads in the block. For one bolt location, They inserted a helicoil type thing in the block and installed the water pump using a smaller diameter bolt, of lesser  strength than the original.

So here we are in 2019 replacing the water pump, breaking that bolts head off, drilling the bolt up to 3/16", breaking various easy outs, using freeze stuff and finally forcing the cover off and actually breaking the shank of the bolt since it refused to come out with any easy outs.

Now the rest(threaded end with some form of metric threads) of the bolt is still stuck in the helicoil. Getting that end out is next project.

Nicely enough the front cover is fine.

Tom, A couple of points:  1st: Not sure why anyone would go thru the process to drill out broken bolt and install helicoil and not use a Grade 5, or better yet Grade 8 bolt. They are readily available. But, I've seen some really crazy things with the parts cars.  2nd: when drilling out the broken bolts be sure to use "hard metal" drill bits as noted in my tech tip on our September Newsletter which you can see by Clicking Here

Jason

I used the Milwaukee "cobalt" drill bits like you described. They worked just fine.

Some are rated 15x now with some as 10x.

Started putting some release lubricant on the bolt part that is still in the block earlier today.

Thx

10 or 15 would be over kill and not needed for this application. Main thing is do not use standard or stainless. Stainless is about the same strength as stainless bolts.. just a tad more, but many have the misconception they are super strong. The will not corrode, but will snap just like a standard grade bolt.

Jason, When I referred to 10x and 15x I was referring to the published LIFE of the Milwaukee cobalt drill bits as printed on their packaging.

On some applications it is more like 100x!! Those regular bits can be useless on hardened bolts and metal!

YOU SURE GOT THAT RIGHT. Those cobalt bits are terrific on metal.

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