I have a bad window motor in the passenger side door.  I have removed the door panel and am at a complete loss as to where to start and what to do from here.  Does anyone have any step by step instructions or photos or both to help with this?  I have searched and checked out the help section and can't find anything.  I don't want to just start unbolting things in fear i will never get it back together.  


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First step: buy a workshop manual. Best investment you can do.

Take pictures as you remove parts 

Will help get it back together to solve you concerns about that 

What is the window doing now - moving slow - not moving at all ?


Get to the window motor and remove the mounting bolts and clean the motor contact points to shinny metal and reinstall it 

 That is the motors ground connections

Clean  grounds first on our year cars —-if an electrical issue 

Then test for power from the switch to the motor and power coming into the window switch looking for a broken wire 

The wiring in the door jam may be damaged from use of that door over time 

They sell 12v wire testers at any auto parts store to know if a car circuit is live or not 


Did you check that power is getting to the window motor? The usual suspect is a broken wire in the drivers door jamb boot.

It you want to remove the motor, just remove the 3 bolts holding it in. It is the easiest and fastest way. You will need to drill 3 holes in the inner door skin to access the 3 bolts.  The spring in the regulator will hold the window in place.   I have done this numerous times with ease and success.  If you need a 63 shop manual, I have several originals for 40.00 each.

I would post a pic, but the site is acting funny, wont let me. Maybe later.

I would like a manual.  I assume the manual for the 63 is exactly the same for the 64?

Yes, drilling those holes helped a ton.  If only I had seen your post before I made the first attempt.  

Thanks everyone.  I figured it out.  Not easy.  Here's the update.

I was able to pull the panel off and locate the motor.  What a squeeze.  I had to use a skinny wrench and quarter turns to remove the 3 bolts holding it in.  I installed the refurbished motor but could only manage to get 2 of the 3 bolts in.  After many attempts, cuts and cursing I decided the 2 bolts would have to do. I tightened them down real good.  I tested the motor and the window went up and down super fast.  I reassembled the door panel.  I hit the switch and nothing.  All of a sudden it stopped working.  Frustrated, I went for round two.

I took it all back apart.  Removed the 2 bolts and the motor and tested it.  It fired right up in both directions.  So this time, I used a drill bit and drilled holes in the metal door panel just in front of the holes where the motor bolts up.  The drilled holes were big enough to fit the bolts in without trying to maneuver them between the door panel and the motor.  Using a magnet, I guided all 3 bolts right into place and the motor install was very easy 2nd time around.  Kept testing the motor as I slowly put the door panel back together.  It all went back together and for some reason works just fine.  Maybe the motor or karma was telling me 2 bolts wouldn't work long term.  I'm glad I went for round two and got all 3 bolts in this time.  Most of all, I'm glad the window works.  

If you have a 64, then it is highly recommended to get a 1964 Cadillac shop manual from ebay.  The 63 will have a lot of similar sections, but the main difference is in the heater/Acv system. Other areas are different, but you just need to get a 64 manual if your car is a 64.


You are going to be keeping up with our best mechanics after that job 

Glad to see you did so very well with the motor replacement 

 I Like Russ’ s drilling into the doors metal skin to get to the motor bolts —a great idea 


This is a really interesting post.  The photo is a big help.  I have often wanted to do a motor replacement on the back motors, but was discouraged by numerous cryptic references in the manual to the deadly spring and the "serious injury" that would result if you tried to service the motor yourself.  As usual, the manual is very vague and ambiguous, raising more questions than it answers:

Why should the spring be so dangerous?  Does it pop loose when you remove the old motor?  How do you prevent whatever the danger is?

Why should it be necessary to drill holes in the door skin?  Drill them where?  How big?  And do what with them?

As for Roy's issue with it mysteriously working and not working, I agree.  The wires are so brittle it's hard to pinpoint and fix all the bad connections.  Also, grounds get rusty and harnesses hang so after driving around on the bumpy road, the connection may not be as perfect as when installing. 



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