hello, i think the fuel pump in my series 62 coupe is making trouble.

it takes forever to start the engine after the car sits a week or longer.

also when i hit the throttle hard under a heavy load (highway or uphill) the engine stumbles and cuts out like its getting not enough fuel.

where do i get a new one or a rebuild kit?

found this on ebay:


will this fit?

mine looks a bit different...

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Are you sure the problem is with your fuel pump? If your fuel filter bowl is filling up when the car is running, the pump is likely fine.

Sounds to me like you have a carb issue - most likely the accelerator pump. The material on the base of the pump wears out, preventing a seal that does what the pump is intended to do: inject fuel into your carb.

When the gas evaporates from sitting, it's the accelerator pump that squirts fuel into the carb to get it started. Also, when under load, it's the accelerator pump that shoots extra fuel into the carb when you step down on the gas. It sounds like you're having issues with both these scenarios. Note that a full rebuild is not necessary to change out the accelerator pump; the top of the carb can be removed and the pump accessed while the carb is still mounted on the car.

You may also want to check the fuel filter, the filter screen (the one that's mounted in-line where your gas line feeds into the carb), and/or the "sock" in the gas tank that filters out crud from entering the fuel line. I once had a clogged tank sock that produced the same gas-starvation problems.

Your carb accelerater pump is the problem
Fuel pumps either work or stop all together in most cases
Do replace the fuel filter and if the carb has a lot of time on it have it rebuilt
You must be sure your tune is on spec or it can cause the same symtoms so points and timing first Etc first
Then with a good tune if the problem still exists -- carb rebuild time


You can prime the front of the carb with about two oz of gas to aid in starting the car when it sits
Butterfly open 1/8 inch ( battery charged )
Always replace the air cleaner before starting or possible fire issue
That will save the starter and battery from abuse ( overheating ) at that time

If you have a 63 i would always rebuild the carb as opposed to going with the replacement Edelbrock
I say this due to the fact the trans shifting is controlled by the TV rod on the carb unlike the 64 and the Edelbrock has no adapter for the TV rod available
You will have to design and make that part for the car to shift correctly
That just keeps the new rebuilt carb thing --much simpler


If for any reason you have an air leak in the fuel lines ( pin holes or damaged rubber hoses ) between the fuel pump and gas tank you will starve for fuel
The fuel pump sucks fuel foward causing a vacuum
I would examine and check the condition of those hoses --First

The air hole in the gas cap and the overflow tube at the rear of the gas tank over the axel should be examined ( the rubber hose there ) that the latter it is in the correct position ( can cause a gas smell if leaking and kill gas mileage )

Replace them with new hoses for ethanol fuels if needed


I can only --imagine how exotic it is --to own one of these cars in other countries of the world -- than the USA
Fuel costs being higher and those of aquiring the parts needed to keep the car in road worthy condition
Just getting these car to there destinations ( other countries ) can double the cost of having the car and its value
These cars are EXOTIC and not often seen on the roads in the USA and we surely have more of them here than other places in the world
For you boys outside the US owning and driving these cars falls into a hole other category of COOL hobby and expense of owning these fine cars
You are very special --CAR GUYS !!!!!!!

thanks for your help and good words guys!

you need to know that i did rebuild the carter carb last winter, replaced the pump and everything.

i also had the intake manifold down and put new gaskets in it.

in may i took it out (in switzerland is winter from nov til april) and the car was running just PERFECT. super smooth idle and clean running under any throttle situation, no stumble no bog no hesitation!

also had the gas tank down in a winter 2 years ago and replaced the filter in the tank that looks like a pillow and replace the fuel line as well.

for me it seems logical that the fuel pump is the culprit, thats the only thing that i've never replaced or checked.

here you can see the freshly rebuild carter carb mounted...

The accelerater pumps can be installed incorectly and the plunger gets kinked in its cavity sometimes
As i now know the carb was rebuilt -i would be checking the present condition of the tune
These cars get tuned every 6,000 miles
You could have a worn dist cap and rotor -worn points causing the hesatation
Do remember to change out the ignition wires --if you do not recall the last time they were changed
They short out on to any metal when the covering is worn and breaks down ( from heat or hot antifreeze contact )


does nobody know if this fuel pump will fit? i'll just give it a try and order a new one

If you are looking at the airtex fuel pump 6744 on Ebay this appears to be the correct one. Yours looks to be a Carter pump. Go to rockauto.com they have three different kinds of pump. The 6744 is a bit if a bugger to get the line from the tank installed. The pickup nipple is right next to the frame crossover. I got a spectra from Jason and the nipple twisted out and I was sucking air with a new pump. It is just a press in fit. I reinstalled my old one after cleaning and painting it. 

i got the problem figured out finally. the cutting out under heavy load was plain and simple a bad contact breaker and condensor. i think i give the Pertronix a try in the near future.

If the engine is not running correctly and you have points —-the very first thing to check  is the points and timing to see if they are on spec 

Never readjust old points 

New points SB installed and the dwell angle set correctly then the timing checked or adjusted if needed

Doing a tune  up ever 6,000 miles per the manual will prevent the engine from running poorly and causing the troubling issues you were having 

The stock maintenance on our year cars is more extensive than that of the newer cars we own 


the old points and condensor were not even 500 miles in the car, so i never imagined it could be this.

checked the voltage at the coil + side and i got 12.5V there when the Ign. is on.

in my understanding there should be a resistance that the coil receives about 10V only.

that was probably the reason the points got burned out in such a short amount of time.



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