Is it common for the 390 and 429's to burn oil? Because just the other day while driving my 64, I notice upon start up the same lifter that was making noise a month ago, came back. So I decided to check the oil, and to my surprise there was no oil registered on the dipstick!!
I don't know how that is possible when I don't drive the car a whole lot and the car doesn't smoke, or really leak any oil. Thank god my instincts to check the oil came to light as I was down 2 1/2 quarts of it!
After adding oil, the oil finally registered on the dipstick and once started up the lifter tap was gone.
I added a couple of gallons of 110 Leaded Octane race fuel in the tank, and took the car for a drive. The engine smoothed out so much that It really help in the idling department with the race gas. Well after 20 minutes of driving, all of sudden while at a stop light, the lifter tap came back, and the engine idled roughly. As I accelerated, I noticed a lack of power, and the tapping getting worse.
So I pull into the nearest gas station, and suddenly the engine smoothed out and idled fine again. So I quickly drove home and the engine ran great, well as I pull into to park, the tapping came back and yet again the engine idled rough and was sorta shaking.
I can't understand why this only happens after driving the car for say 20 minutes, and the tapping comes and goes. My first thought is low oil pressure, but the light has never came on. Or a clogged oil pick up screen starving the lifters of oil. I've used 10w40 and 20w50 oil just in case the pressure drops or is low.
The big concern that is shocking to me, is the high amount loss of oil. To lose almost 3 quarts is crazy. Someone told me to stay away from Synthetic as I used 0w40 Mobil 1 when I did the oil change a couple of months back, and stick to high mileage dino oil, or just use conventional oil. One of my co-workers owns a 70 Chevy pickup with a 350, and he was using full Syn oil at one point in time, but it leaked out badly from the seals. So he started using diesel oil, specifically Delvac, and the leaking stopped completely.
I think thats the case too. The oil leak isn't huge, but a slow seepage that took time. I will get the bottom of this fairly soon.
Thanks Tone! And Merry Christmas to everyone, and for the help you have all given me through my 64 ownership! It sure is a never ending learning process.
Hi Chris I replaced the valve cover gaskets on my 64 and they still leaked. When I took them off I noticed that the cover seemed to hit the head before the gasket did or was very close. I replaced them with Fel Pro gaskets and saw right away the gasket stuck down further than the cover. When everything was tightened and in place the covers were slightly off the head and made a tight seal. It's been 3 years and zero leaks. Also make sure your oil pressure indicator switch, located on the rear of the engine is tight. I am sure that is not your problem but it can drip down to where the rear seal is and give you a false indication of a rear seal leak.
Ok I didn't even know that was the oil pressure switch! Thanks!
You know I used the thick Fel Pro cork gasket, so I didn't install some cheap off brand no name one. Yes I do believe conventional might suit this engine better, as the consistency is very different from a full syn 10w30 to a conventional 10w30.
Well the tapping went away guys! I had to add another bottle of the Rislone Zinc additive, and after about 15 minutes of driving, the tapping went away.
Some engines are just very sensitive regarding zinc use, and this is the first classic car I have owned that has been so finicky with the kind of oil I have put in. The Zinc helped smooth the engine out as well.
I'll definitely be keeping my eye on the oil level more closely now until the leakage is gone.
Hey guys I’m reviving my old thread because I have another issue that seems to always happen now when I am about to park the car after a quick cruise.
So when I come home and park the car, put it in reverse and then drive the idle will drop almost as if the engine wants to die, after a couple of times reversing then putting the car into drive, the engine will start running rough and start ticking again. It’s been doing more and more lately as well.
The car starts up great but with some slight ticking/tapping but then the noise will go away after the engine warms up. Nothing has changed since this post besides for using thicker oil like 20W50 which actually reduces the ticking and usually eliminates it.
10W30 is too thin for some reason and the engine makes noise and runs rough with that kind of oil even when using a Zinc additive.
I want to install an oil pressure gauge, but I’m not sure what kind or what brand. Will any oil pressure gauge work or does it have to be specific?
i know I need to tackle the problem head on by removing the front timing cover and inspecting the oil pump itself, but I’ve been way too busy lately and it’s a job I’d rather have a shop do for me and get it done much faster at the same time they can replace the timing gears and tell me if something is seriously wrong.
Check your idle, it may be too low. When was the last time the oil fill cap screen was cleaned, along with the PCV valve.
Hey Russ, the idle is fine when say I’m at a stop light. In drive, the RPMs are usually around 500-520, it’s only when I put the trans into R and back into D is when the idle drops really low and I get a bog.
The PCV is good, it’s not stuck. The oil cap is a closed system type, so it doesn’t have the breather screen.
If the oil filler cap is a sealed piece, then air needs to get in somewhere. If this is a Cali car, then the breather is in the air cleaner housing.